Do you have a plan for how to proceed from this point? Once the head is off you will not be able to use a lift from the top. Do you plan to move the engine aft and then turn it onto the flywheel housing? Or are you able to lift the engine by hand, pan, crank etc still installed?
I need to slide it out of the engine compartment. I can't lift it strait up. I'll then lift it to the cockpit using straps. Reposition it so I can lift it off the boat.
I'm also thinking that i can reinstall the lifting bracket if i need too. I was surprised that the head is so hard to get off.
Don't forget to drain the oil before lifting - a slight tilt forward and you could have a mess. I would advise against using the head studs for lifting with the head removed. The strap idea is good. Run a line to the output shaft for 3 point control.
Does anyone know about removing the head? Is it normal for it to be really hard to remove?
It is normal and especially on late heads. The two studs that double as fasteners for the thermostat housing are usually the problem. Light machine oil or even PB Blaster drizzled down the studs can help. It is important to raise the head evenly for greatest ease of removal. Be patient and try to avoid using sharp tools that can damage the mating surfaces. Some members use wooden wedges.
If you can turn the engine with the starter loosen\remove the nuts on the studs put the spark plugs in and crank the engine to see if you can loosen the head a bit.
Thanks. I had to use a jack to move the head up just to get a flat putty knife between the head and block. I removed the thermostat studs and all but one stud on the left side came out with the nuts.
Could there be that much rust on the studs or is it that tight of a fit? Probably both?
Light machine oil or even PB Blaster drizzled down the studs can help.
Light tapping on the studs along with PB Blaster (or your favorite goop) will help also. Don't peen the ends of the studs but if you do you can cut them off or grind the peen away.
Light tapping on the studs along with PB Blaster (or your favorite goop) will help also. Don't peen the ends of the studs but if you do you can cut them off or grind the peen away.
TRUE GRIT
Don't tap straight down on the studs, tap them from the sides in all directions. I usually thread a nut on loosely and tap on that instead of the stud directly in order to preserve the threads.
This procedure will help the PBBlaster (or whatever penetrant you're using) to work its way in.
Once you have the head partway up, you can use wooden wedges in from the side into the gap between the head and the block to pry it up without damaging the surfaces. You have to keep the head fairly level as you do this or it will bind on the studs.
@(^.^)@ Ed
1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4
I agree with Hanley that the $180 is worth the cost. However, there are lots of us in the Chesapeake area that never mind helping. Ajax is on the West River, there are a few on the Eastern Shore and I am an hour-ish south of Annapolis. Might be a fun Saturday project if we are not too busy with our own boats.
Thanks I haven't pulled the boat out yet. I will in the next week or so.
I love fixing old stuff. I used to have International Harvester Scouts. Hence the name of my boat "Scout". I used the decal from the truck for the lettering.
I also fixed up old Lambretta scooters and early model honda cb motorcycles.
Talking to people that know what they are doing is always a great help.
Thanks again, and i may take you up on that and if not that at least some advice.
Oooooh, Honda cb. Waaay back when, I had a 350 sl that we kluged motocross bars and knobby tires on and thrashed the woods with. We called it an 350 SOB. A very dependable bike. The cb 360 not so.
Welcome,
Russ
sigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1
So the engine is out. I tried to remove the head. I tried the wooden shims, PB blaster, heat , tapping with a hammer, still not budging. I'm going to try the welding the nut on the stud next. Unless someone has some other tricks.
Oooooh, Honda cb. Waaay back when, I had a 350 sl that we kluged motocross bars and knobby tires on and thrashed the woods with. We called it an 350 SOB. A very dependable bike. The cb 360 not so.
Welcome,
Russ
Nice. I have motocross handle bars on one of my cb750s, no knobby tires. Great bikes.
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