Bowen Island Paint Job

[jpian0923]

Fun and Exciting for sure!

My critical eye takes over though. There are "two" head gaskets there, right?

[Marty Levenson]

2 head gaskets

roger that.

-Marty

[jpian0923]

For simple bench testing this is what I used. (credit: Neil Dutton)

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showpost.php?p=38969&postcount=106

[jhwelch]

The photos of all those loose parts is terrific! I've never seen them set out that way before.

[Marty Levenson]

Thanks and a few questions

...glad you like the pictures ...and thanks for that link on wiring for a bench test. I need to give that some more thought soon.

A couple new questions:

1. I increased the size of the tee inlet to 1/2". I'm thinking I should increase the inside holes as well. It has the stock tee from MM: a 1/4" hole facing straight into the chamber, and a 5/16" hole facing aft and 45 degrees down. The 5/16" hole is very slightly obstructed by the threaded pipe that connects the inner cover to the tee. Increase the 1/4" hole to 5/16"? And/or add a second 1/4" hole facing up 45 degrees and aft? Or...?

2. I want to clean out the stud holes, and am wondering if I there is a different tap for coarse threads than for fine threads...?

Many thanks: its really rare being able to ask a bunch of experienced people all these detailed questions.

-Marty

[Loki9]

A couple new questions:

1. I increased the size of the tee inlet to 1/2". I'm thinking I should increase the inside holes as well. It has the stock tee from MM: a 1/4" hole facing straight into the chamber, and a 5/16" hole facing aft and 45 degrees down. The 5/16" hole is very slightly obstructed by the threaded pipe that connects the inner cover to the tee. Increase the 1/4" hole to 5/16"? And/or add a second 1/4" hole facing up 45 degrees and aft? Or...?

You're moving into uncharted territory. If it were me, I'd want to be sure there was a problem before "fixing" it. In other words, I'd want to see how well the A4 maintained temperature under load before making any changes.

2. I want to clean out the stud holes, and am wondering if I there is a different tap for coarse threads than for fine threads...?

Yes! You must have the correct tap or you will destroy the threads.

Looks like you are making good progress on the rebuild. For what it's worth, I didn't bother with a starter switch for testing, I just used a screwdriver to short the starter terminal to the positive terminal. It's easy to do and you can see me doing it in the video I posted in my overhaul thread.

[ndutton]

Marty,
The tap you want is 5/16-18.

Regarding the larger sideplate Tee, thatch and I both made the same modification including larger holes (3/8") in the larger diverter cap. We made this change in consideration of minimizing flow restriction with the new concept of electric FWC. The electric pump is not a positive displacement pump and can be affected by restrictions much more than the typical flexible impeller pumps.

I didn't test my electric FWC with the original 3/8" diverter Tee so I can't say how big a difference it made, if any. In my mind I believe it did but I don't have the numbers to prove or measure it.

[Marty Levenson]

broken fitting....again!

Well, my new studs and nuts arrived from Moyer today, and I finally got the head installed and torqued (35 lbs) no prob. Dove right into putting parts back on: manifold - no prob. Went to attach the carb and found that with the manifold torqued down that extra mm (25 lbs) the carb didn't clear the fuel pump on/of switch. When I went to unscrew that switch the brass fitting broke off perfectly flush with the block. Bummer! What is the best way to get that sucker out?

Once I do get it out, I'm thinking of moving that switch to the oil filter bracket that will be mounted on a bulkhead (that's where the oil pressure sender is as well.) Then I can just cap the oil port that is jammed with the broken brass fitting....after I get that out!

Advice appreciated! I know from last time NOT to use an ez out.

-Marty

[edwardc]

I've had good luck (on screws anyway) with the "grabbit" style extractors:

http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8440P-Grabit-Damaged-Extractor/dp/B001A4CWHO

The extractor shank is short and stubby, so it doesn't break off. If it fails to extract, it just looses it's grip. But it's grip is tenacious. With enough pressure, I can get it to twist off the head of a stripped stainless steel screw!

[Marty Levenson]

soft brass

Hey Ed - thanks for the suggestion. Sounds like a good tool to own, but not sure it will work with this soft, thin brass....maybe not enough "meat" to bite? Anyway, I live on an island and am hoping I can get that sucker out of there today!

Would GENTLY tapping in a drill bit, and then twisting it out, make any sense? Maybe with red loctite on the bit? Would heat help?

I foresee touching up my shiny new paint!

-Marty

[Marian Claire]

Seems like the drill bit would lose its bite when you try and back it out. I have had some success using a torx bit/driver of the appropriate size to get a bite on stripped out hex set screws. FWIW. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[Marty Levenson]

star drive did it

Thanks Dan: good tip. Just taped in a star drive head and screwed it out with a wrench....took 30 seconds.

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

flywheel stud problem

Happy New Year - and back at it. Took the A4 off the stand today so I could put on the flywheel housing, flywheel and cover. All went well, EXCEPT: when I went to torque the 6 nuts on the flywheel studs (as per Don's manual) three of them started slipping...stripped, I'm guessing. I had replaced the worn looking nuts with grade 8 lockwashers and nuts. They are on there pretty snug right now, but no where near 35 lbs....more like 20.

I have no idea how you change those studs. Should I? Redo nuts with red locktite? Did Grade 8 nuts cause a problem?

Info appreciated!

-Marty

[hanleyclifford]

Those studs are threaded into the crank and can be removed in much the same way as a head stud. There is no benefit or harm in going to class 8 but IMO all components should be the same. This is not an area where you can afford to skimp on torque values.

[Marty Levenson]

flywheel studs

Thanks, Hanley,

So...why might those three have stripped? They seemed fine.

When I install the new studs would I be wise to use locktite red?

Is the installation also similar to head studs in terms of tightening them down and then a half turn more?

Thanks,
Marty