MMI rebuilt install

[Marty Levenson]

I am installing an MMI rebuild and have a steady stream of questions. Thought it would make sense to put them into one thread rather than starting a new one every time an issue comes up.

At the moment three questions.

1. When I filled the oil it only took four liters.....that is just 4.22 quarts. Wondering why? I know the engines were tested before shipping, so wondering if there is residual oil making up the difference? She runs great: should I be concerned?

2. The paint is quite a dark bronze (like it!) but thought the traditional colour was much redder. My bad memory, or has the colour evolved?

3. I have the Indigo oil filter system and had planned to move that onto the new rebuild. The new engine came with the Moyer oil change kit but wondering if it is possible to have that installed somewhere else as the oil filter kit would block off that port.

Thanks for any feedback.

Marty

[BunnyPlanet169]

1) No worries - mine took about 5 quarts (level engine test stand). If it's on the dipstick around the marks you're fine.

2) YMMV - it all looks like rust to me

3) The MMI kit has a long tube that sticks down into the pan. It's the only place for it. I think you could put a tee there for both drain and filter, assuming the Indigo uses that for the return path. There is another drain on the flywheel end down low on the oil pan - can you access that for drain when installed in you boat? It won't be perfect for a rearward tilting engine, but the tube isn't perfect either. You could always drain the oil thru the rear transmission cover....

[Marty Levenson]

hour meter in Canada?

Thanks for the replies, Jeff!

Also wondering about a Canadian source for an hour meter. Would like to get it from Moyer, but between the high exchange rate and shipping it will be too costly. Anyone have a good source....preferably near Vancouver?

Thanks!

[edwardc]

...3. I have the Indigo oil filter system and had planned to move that onto the new rebuild. The new engine came with the Moyer oil change kit but wondering if it is possible to have that installed somewhere else as the oil filter kit would block off that port....

I have the Indigo oil filter system too, installed by a PO. It has a tee in the return line leading to the port at the base of the block. The extra path off of the tee has valve, then a short stub of hose. I hook my vacuum oil extractor here, and it works fine.

As others have noted, I only get a bit over 3 qts out when I change. No matter where you pull from, some still remains trapped in the engine. Yet another argument for frequent oil changes.

[Marty Levenson]

shaft turns but the boat sits!

Yesterday finished alignment ( wow that took lot of time: dozens of tries!). Adjusted the shifter and ran the engine. Runs great, goes into gear, see the shaft spinning, but the boat doesn't go AT ALL. Having a diver look at the prop tomorrow morning. I have had growth that reduced headway before...even drastically...but never zero push. Maybe the zinc is part way off? Line wrapped? There was also quite a lot of vibration in gear, so shut her down fast. Didn't try reverse.

[Marty Levenson]

a heads up from a lesson learned

Just want to note that there is a wide range of shifter configurations. Before installing a rebuilt engine save some grief by closely comparing the new with the old. As I mentioned elsewhere, our new A4 shifter protruded down about 6" below the shaft it attaches to, which made it impossible to install. Easy to cut it down once I saw the problem, but that took wrestling with the half suspended engine for an hour. (slow learner).

[Marty Levenson]

by-pass valve question

The MMI rebuild came with the by-pass valve installed, which is unfamiliar to me. Am I correct that the right way to set the valve is to let it warm up, run her under load for a five minutes or so, and adjust the valve so temp stays at 180?

Thanks!
Marty

[Marty Levenson]

prop

Just to follow up an earlier post: the diver found the prop to be completely clogged with barnacles. Amazing as two months ago, before swapping engines, I had lots of prop wash. Those things can grow fast in the spring! Will be testing today.

-Marty

[JOHN COOKSON]

The MMI rebuild came with the by-pass valve installed, which is unfamiliar to me. Am I correct that the right way to set the valve is to let it warm up, run her under load for a five minutes or so, and adjust the valve so temp stays at 180?Marty

Marty
FWC? With or without a thermostat?
I perceive a real advantage depending on your cooling system set up and temperament.
I am RWC with one of the original three legged thermostats. There is a valve on the bypass which I keep fully open. I run ~ 145*-150*. It always takes about 20 minutes or so at cruise RPM under load to fully warm up the engine. This is despite what the temp gauge says.
Anyway if you could get the engine to warm up quicker by opening the bypass then closing the bypass a bit after the engine is fully warmed up you would be ahead of the game. If you're so inclined that is.

TRUE GRIT

[Marty Levenson]

Fwc

Thanks John. FWC with Indigo exchanger.

[Marty Levenson]

transmission problems

I tested the engine after the diver cleaned the prop, and she has great thrust in forward now. However, I could not get her into neutral or reverse. Also the shift in and out of gear was very hard. I feel out of my depth working inside the transmission, but here goes...after reading the relevant pages in the manual a dozen times.
For all these tests I disconnected the cockpit shifter completely. Popped open the transmission cover and (manual page 6-4) managed, using a mirror, to get the retaining pin loose. Needed to push (carefully!) with a screwdriver to get the adjusting collar to move, as without neutral it is very hard to turn. Went counter-clockwise, as I figured it was "over-engaged". Tested and could now get almost neutral, but still some slow spin on the shaft even if I pushed the shifter aft hard. Went in and out of forward position significantly easier. No reverse possible.
So, loosened the retaining pin again and turned the collar a bit more counter clockwise (easier to turn now). At the same time I turned the reverse adjusting nut clockwise half a turn (6-5 "reverse mode adjusting procedure note #2). , Now I can get a real, deadstop neutral, but still no reverse AT ALL. Even easier shifting....too easy? Was out of time, so am planning the next move.
Thinking I need to just turn the Reverse adjusting nut more clockwise: maybe a full turn to start. Will leave the adjusting collar alone, unless it seems to be slipping and needs tightening a notch.
Does it sound like I am on the right track?

Thanks!
Marty

[Marty Levenson]

and stuffing box wobble..!

While doing the tests above, I noticed my stuffing box has a slight wobble. No drips, even when running. Never did this before. Very perplexed as I am sure I had the alignment good....even very, very good. What the heck?

Could the engine have shifted somehow?
Could prop cleaning and new zinc affect the balance?
Is the cutlass bearing worn out?
When removing the old A4 the output coupling hung up and suddenly released with a thud. Could that be enough to bend the shaft? Say it ain't so.

Our wharfinger thinks that if the stuffing box is too tight it can cause wobble. I don't get that - also never dripped or wobbled before this.

Once I have the transmission adjustment sorted out thinking I will unbolt the output coupling again and measure the gaps to be sure all is still within .002

On it goes...!

Thanks,
Marty

[hanleyclifford]

IIRC you just removed one engine and installed another. You will have to do the alignment drill again. Beware of wharfingers bareing advice.

[Marty Levenson]

redo?

Thanks Hanley - I hope that's all it takes!

(Had to look up "IIRC" - thought that was some sail race classification!)

To be clear: I did align this engine after installing and really thought I had it nailed. Will dig deeper for sure.

Marty

[Marty Levenson]

Hour meter wiring

I scored a new Stewart Warner for $20 on Craigslist. Am I correct that it gets wired to the "IGN" post on the ignition switch?

Thanks!
Marty