Boat: 1973 Ranger 29
Most recent change: installed new late model carburetor, replacing heavily pitted early model carburetor.
Ignoring the mistake in reassembling the early model carburetor that lead to buying the new carburetor unnecessarily and my lack of awareness that barbed hose mounts required clamps and associated minor fuel spills and cleanup...
Process:
Both Battery banks fully charged.
Installed new model carburetor. Mounted scavenge tube from bottom to adapter mount, with tube located towards engine. Installed inline fuel filter and brand new A1 hose between electric fuel pump and carburetor.
Reopen fuel tank.
Ran a cable from battery 1 pos to fuel pump positive at the oil pressure sender.
Fuel pump makes noise. Fuel does not leak. (Not 100% sure fuel reaches carburetor.)
Wait.
Turn on voltage meter hardwired to battery 1 (on USB power; not exactly scientific).
Turn boat power selector switch to Battery 1.
Turn on blower.
Wait 5 minutes.
Turn on Ignition. Analog Instrument Volt Meter shows ~12V and Digital USB Volt Meter show 12.4V.
Press Starter.
Expected: Engine cranks. Hopefully starts.
Actual: Double "click." Blower shuts off and stays off. Digital USB Volt Meter goes blank. Blower stays off until I turn ignition and blower both off, then turn blower back on.
Suspicion: Electric short AFTER the starter solenoid. Starter to solenoid triggers the main electromagnet correctly, closes the circuit. Power flowing across the closed solenoid reaches a path that shorts (probably back to engine ground).
Further: The flame arrestor on the late model carburetor (plus adapter) takes up more space towards forward than the early model carburetor did; the flame arrestor MAY be in incidental contact with the oil pressure sender. I didn't think it was contacting any wires, but may be. If the oil pressure sender power in is in contact with the flame arrestor, I figure it might flow directly through the carburetor into the engine.
However: I don't have a clue about engines and am making all this up.
My current plan is to check conductivity from the oil sender line in to the engine as a first guess (not starting the engine!), but I'm not sure if I'm even on the right track.
Any suggestions? What other systems come online after the starter is tripped but before the starter motor would engage?
Most recent change: installed new late model carburetor, replacing heavily pitted early model carburetor.
Ignoring the mistake in reassembling the early model carburetor that lead to buying the new carburetor unnecessarily and my lack of awareness that barbed hose mounts required clamps and associated minor fuel spills and cleanup...
Process:
Both Battery banks fully charged.
Installed new model carburetor. Mounted scavenge tube from bottom to adapter mount, with tube located towards engine. Installed inline fuel filter and brand new A1 hose between electric fuel pump and carburetor.
Reopen fuel tank.
Ran a cable from battery 1 pos to fuel pump positive at the oil pressure sender.
Fuel pump makes noise. Fuel does not leak. (Not 100% sure fuel reaches carburetor.)
Wait.
Turn on voltage meter hardwired to battery 1 (on USB power; not exactly scientific).
Turn boat power selector switch to Battery 1.
Turn on blower.
Wait 5 minutes.
Turn on Ignition. Analog Instrument Volt Meter shows ~12V and Digital USB Volt Meter show 12.4V.
Press Starter.
Expected: Engine cranks. Hopefully starts.
Actual: Double "click." Blower shuts off and stays off. Digital USB Volt Meter goes blank. Blower stays off until I turn ignition and blower both off, then turn blower back on.
Suspicion: Electric short AFTER the starter solenoid. Starter to solenoid triggers the main electromagnet correctly, closes the circuit. Power flowing across the closed solenoid reaches a path that shorts (probably back to engine ground).
Further: The flame arrestor on the late model carburetor (plus adapter) takes up more space towards forward than the early model carburetor did; the flame arrestor MAY be in incidental contact with the oil pressure sender. I didn't think it was contacting any wires, but may be. If the oil pressure sender power in is in contact with the flame arrestor, I figure it might flow directly through the carburetor into the engine.
However: I don't have a clue about engines and am making all this up.
My current plan is to check conductivity from the oil sender line in to the engine as a first guess (not starting the engine!), but I'm not sure if I'm even on the right track.
Any suggestions? What other systems come online after the starter is tripped but before the starter motor would engage?
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