Temporary fix for ruptured hot section?

[Mr. Close Reach]

Did a routine inspection of my engine Sunday after a brief sail that ended with about 25 minutes of motoring. There was indication of water dripping down from the hot (wrapped) section of the exhaust - could see where a steady drip had followed the hoses down and ended up in the bilge. Seems pretty clear that some part of the hot section failed, which I was expecting to happen - had been seeing it "spitting" a bit over the last few weeks.

I have a hefty winter storage deposit at a yard that is about 50 nm away. Any advice on a safe way to shore up this part of my exhaust to get there safely? With the right weather window I could probably sail 80% of the way.

[Cool Beans]

If it is just a drip, not sure I would bother with it. . .assuming the hot section isn't rotten and on the verge of falling off

I'd unwrap it and inspect it. Maybe only replace the worst parts with galvanized drain pipe pieces? Or wrap it up in duct tape

[Mo]

My humble opinion.

Like Cool said if it's just a drip and some steam it will likely be OK to go 50 nm...keep the boat well ventilated and blower running. 10 hrs at 5 kts. Here's the thing...if it's an old hot section, and you mess with it, it could very well fracture a rusted area and become totally unserviceable.

I did my hot section a couple of years back. It came out with the manifold in 10 minutes, had torches to loosen flange nuts, flange was still good, took about an hour to round up the pipe to make another. Had it all back together, wrapped and installed in 3 hours.

If I didn't have the torches and needed the flange I would have been laid up...first getting it apart and secondly waiting for parts. For this reason I caution against going at it at all unless you are tackling it to build a new one. I don't think there will be much of a chance of repairing part of it....they get rusty fast and the whole thing will need replacing...as soon as you put a wrench on it it might crumble.

[sastanley]

My ASE certified mechanic stepfather used to use tin cans to wrap the exhaust on his Chevrolet with a couple of hose clamps..it lasted for a long time.

[Mr. Close Reach]

We'll see...

Ok, thanks everyone. If I can't get my deposit back (to facilitate staying at a local yard) I might have to try the tin can/duct tape method!

[ndutton]

The good news is if it's dripping water the immediate problem is in the cooler part so a patch should survive.

[JOHN COOKSON]

If you have a half way decent bilge pump it can keep up with the leak easily. You won't sink or even come close to it. Been there done it with water leaking out the hot section. Patch it up as good as you can and go for it.

As others have said be aware of carbon monoxide.

TRUE GRIT

[roadnsky]

Ok, thanks everyone. If I can't get my deposit back (to facilitate staying at a local yard) I might have to try the tin can/duct tape method!

Just making sure you meant HOSE CLAMPS and not actually using Duct Tape?
That hot section can reach 500+° and you'd have a stinky gooey mess...
You MAY be able to use Rescue Tape since it's rated UP TO 500° but it'll depend on exactly where you're putting it. (http://www.rescuetape.com)
At least if it fails (melts?) it won't be such a mess. (IMHO)

I second Mo's opinion that if you're gonna attempt to take apart ANY of it, you might as well do the entire hot section.

One other thought...
Could it just be a split hose or fitting where the cooling water joins the exhaust?

[Mr. Close Reach]

Drain antifreeze first?

Hoping to get started on this today. I guess this is a dumb question, but I will need to drain the coolant from the system before I remove the hot section from the end of the manifold, yes?

[Mo]

No, should not need to do that.

[Mr. Close Reach]

Sourcing pipe for the hot section

I got the hot section off the manifold today. I will post pictures shortly - it was a mess! The riser section (someone had plumbed in an actual riser) cracked in half in a tapped it on a cinderblock.

Do I need 1 1/4" threaded pipe to fit into the new exhaust flange I will be ordering from Moyer? Any suggestions for sourcing this pipe...I think someone had mentioned McMaster but perhaps it's something I can get at a local plumbing supply?

Pics to follow, I promise.

[joe_db]

I make mine out of local hardware store pipe. 1-1/4" black iron will do.
A local welder offered to make a stainless version for $1500

[JOHN COOKSON]

Take what is left of the old hot section to the hardware store and match it up with new. Most hot sections can be reconstructed with off the shelf plumbing pieces.

One caveat however: If the current hot section and exhaust system has been working well replace it 1 on 1. If you need to make modifications now is the time to do it.

TRUE GRIT

Edit: Joe posted while I was typing!

[sastanley]

lots of good threads on hot section rebuilds

Mr. CR,

There are some great threads here in the Exhaust section.

Somewhere I have a picture that speaks to John's suggestion. My old hot section was pretty much one piece of pipe with a couple fittings, and I was worried about how easily it could back fill the engine, so I built a taller one to hopefully avoid that. You can see some of the pics from that project in the link below.

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3444

[Mr. Close Reach]

picture

Nothing a little duct tape and a few hose clamps can't fix...