Need to Move Oil Sending Unit

[RobH2]

My oil pressure sending unit and oil pressure safety switch are on a "t" pipe configuration on the port/forward block in front of the carb. I find that I'm frequently removing the carb to keep my engine running. I have to remove the "t" each time. If I could move that "t" to some other threaded orifice on the block it might be out of the way of my carb removal tasks.

Is there a place I can move the "t"?

I've included a photo to show what I have.

[MikeB.330]

you could move, I supose run a fexable line and mount the oil psi cut off and psi sending unit on the bulkhead.

a better choice may be to clean your entire fuel system and install a Racor filter and pollishing filter between the pump and the carb. No more taking the carb off all the time for cleaning.

[MikeB.330]

Off topic but I noticed your manifold doesn't have the "Hot" spot on the front of it that has been mentioned in other threads?


are you fresh water cooled or seawater cooled?

[ndutton]

Mike,

The manifold looks newer than the rest of the engine too.

[High Hopes]

Hi Rob,

Don't know if we've met, but welcome to the forum. On my A4, a hydraulic hose is used instead of the 3inch nipple. The tee fitting is mounted to a bracket which is then secured to the engine compartment wall. A grounding connection is needed. This has proven to be quite a convenient set up, especially when I had to pull the engine or drop the carb. My boat came with this set up. The hydraulic hose is rated to some incredible pressure 3,000 psi, I think? So I don’t worry about it being strong enough.

You can see the hose in the photo below. It is about 14 inches long. I am not sure where to buy these, maybe Granger or some heavy equipment repair shop?

Steve

[baileyem]

Steve,

Your hydraulic hose looks very much like an automotive brake line hose. I belive that auto brake hose would definitely be useable for the application and very easy to obtain.

Congratulations on your beautiful engine. It looks great.

Mike

[rigspelt]

There is also an an alternate oil pressure port just aft of the carb on the port side.

[keelcooler]

Keep an eye on that pipe. Don reports lots of failures when loading up senders on those 4" brass pipes.

[Baltimore Sailor]

Off topic but I noticed your manifold doesn't have the "Hot" spot on the front of it that has been mentioned in other threads?


are you fresh water cooled or seawater cooled?

DYHTBQITHC!

(Damn you have to be quick in this here chatroom!)

I thought the exact same thing when I saw the picture and was hoping to be "first."

But why isn't the oil pressure switch mounted back on its port near the fuel pump in the first place? What's in that spot now?

[67c&ccorv]

My oil pressure sending unit and oil pressure safety switch are on a "t" pipe configuration on the port/forward block in front of the carb. I find that I'm frequently removing the carb to keep my engine running. I have to remove the "t" each time. If I could move that "t" to some other threaded orifice on the block it might be out of the way of my carb removal tasks.

Is there a place I can move the "t"?

I've included a photo to show what I have.

Don't you think it would be easier to just fix your carb?

[sastanley]

DYHTBQITHC!

(Damn you have to be quick in this here chatroom!)

I thought the exact same thing when I saw the picture and was hoping to be "first."

But why isn't the oil pressure switch mounted back on its port near the fuel pump in the first place? What's in that spot now?

BS, I was thinking the same thing. (be aware, more Shawn Civic stories)....when I rebuilt the motor in my car, I was worried about the weight on the aluminum fitting in the block when adding an oil pressure gauge...I ultimately ended up using a copper line kit which fed to a "T"...the copper line fed oil to the idiot light in the dash, and also to the gauge inside the car...I mounted the sensors for those on the firewall (instead of screwing the "T" on the block) to avoid weight/vibration issues from having two sensors in the block itself. It's worked beautifully so far.
Hope that makes sense!

[RobH2]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the suggestions. I just bought this boat and the engine looks pretty bad but it runs well. It has good compression, oil pressure and doesn't smoke. I don't really have the cash to completely redo the engine so I'm just trying to get it running well enough to last a couple more years and then replace it with diesel. I want to do some long cruises so I'll eventually need the range of a diesel. I bought the boat for the boat's sake, not the engine. It's a 1968 Hinterhoeller/C&C Invader 36'. They only made 24 of them and they are a classic old yacht design and practically identical to the famous Pearson Rhodes 41. If I can just keep this motor alive and reliable for a couple of years it would be great. I'm sure with all of your help I'll learn a lot about the Atomic 4's.

Mounting the sending unit on the wall is a good solution I think. Yes, I need to make sure my fuel system is clean so I don't have to remove the carb. That's true. This is my first Atomic 4 and I understand that even under the best circumstances they are finicky. So I has assumed that it was normal to pull the carb periodically.

What's mounted aft of the carb at the other port...nothing? I need to investigate that and send the oil safety back to where it belongs it appears. Then all I'm moving out of the way is the oil sending unit and I eliminate the "t" altogether.

I'm sure I'll be back here a lot given the age and condition of my engine. I appreciate all of your replies and will report back with my solution.

Regards,

Rob

Here's the boat if you are curious:


Here's the engine. It will never be a "Moyer Pinup" that's for sure:

[RobH2]

Hi Rob,

Don't know if we've met, but welcome to the forum. On my A4, a hydraulic hose is used instead ...
Steve

Beautiful engine Steve. Come get mine and make it as pretty as your...LOL...

-Rob

[roadnsky]

This is my first Atomic 4 and I understand that even under the best circumstances they are finicky. So I has assumed that it was normal to pull the carb periodically.

Rob-
First, welcome to the gang!

I'm not sure who's telling you that A4's are finicky, (well, actually I have a guess) but I can tell you that it's certainly NOT normal to keep pulling your carb!
If you get the fuel system up to snuff, you'll be pleased by how reliable and CLEAN an iron sail they are.
AND if you're willing to put some time and TLC into her, you will definitely fall in love with the beast...

[David Masury]

I have the same set up that you have with the exception that the T is vertical and out of the way for removing the flame arrestor and carburator.

It would not hurt to take it off, and wind afew turns of teflon tape and see if you could get it to be upright.

I typed too quickly, turn your T 90 degrees so the oil pressure sending unit is straight out andf the cutoff switch is upright. That way everything should give you the roon you need without a new set up etc.

David