How to replace oil/water filter?

[blhickson]

I know this is an unusually greenhorn question, but I'm new to taking care of our A4. How do you change or clean the oil/water separator filter? When I take off the bottom part, is fuel going to spew all over the engine compartment? It's bulkhead mounted if it makes any difference. It is a Purolator filter, but we are getting a Racor.
Also: had good conversation w/ Ken earlier this week re: issues w/ stalling engine. Among other things, he suggested installing new o/w sep. filter as close to the level of the fuel tank as possible. Is there any danger of installing it on an aft bulkhead down in the deep locker very close to the tank?
Also: anyone know what size are the fuel lines? Our boat is 2 hrs away in Chas and is in a marina that is sorta far from any decent store, so I try to get everything together before I go down to the boat.
Thanks!

[Mo]

Bill,
Unfortunately I think a trip to the boat is required. Take some pictures of what you have currently, ensure you have fuel line shut off valve, take pics of filters...even small filters etc.

There are typically 2 sizes of fuel lines used. We usually have at least one in-line filter installed as well as a water separator. Tank cleanliness and age of gas, addition of ethanol laden gas as opposed to the non-ethanol gas all make a difference. Dirty tank??

Read through some of the threads re: ethanol in fuel; filters; fuel filters; oil filter.

Take pics of everything and get back to us because then we will be able to really help you out. Unless we see what you have sometimes it's hard to advise on what to do. Don't want to see you doing things that were not needed or required and NOT doing things that were needed.

Sounds like we need to bring you up to speed in a number of areas but don't fret...not that hard and it will all come. Soon you will know all you need to know about the engine and keeping it running well.

Sorry couldn't be more help this go around.

[CalebD]

Welcome

Bill,

You've come to the right place to find out all about your A4.

I'll try to answer your questions without pictures.

- the fuel/water separator filter. You'll want a container about the size of an empty coffee can for collecting any fuel/water that comes out. Preferably the container will be clear so you can see if there is any water sitting at the bottom. I think the Racor filters have a bolt or nozzle that gets loosened which allows you to drain the contents of the filter. You may want to shut off your main fuel valve before you do this so the entire contents of your tank don't try to leak out once the filter is draining.
I can't comment on where to locate this fuel filter except to say that it should be mounted such that you can easily access it.

- fuel line size. The rubber fuel line that MMI sells on this website is 5/16". All their accessories related to the fuel system come with barbs for this size fuel line. It is a good idea to replace any/all of your fuel lines with new hose especially if you do not know how old they are.
There may be another common size of fuel line but I'm not familiar with it.

[ndutton]

Wherever you mount the filter be sure it has good access to be able to service it safely. Deep in a locker might not be the best place.

My filter is a spin-on Fram although I use compatible Sierra filters. Replacing the filter cartridge requires closing the tank valve, the fuel valve at the carburetor if present (there's supposed to be one but they're rare it seems), placing a containment under the cartridge and spinning it off. On goes the replacement, the valves are opened and by whatever means available the filter is purged of air.

Caution - - if purging the air from a newly serviced filter by cranking the engine be sure to leave the raw water intake thru-hull closed until the engine starts.

My fuel lines are all 1/4".

[sastanley]

blhickson,
Welcome...
You are getting good advise for many different scenarios. When I was a newbie Atomic4 owner, I had the same concerns as you..i.e., I want to try and prep and carry everything I need to the boat in one trip. Unfortunately, it does not always work that way, but you can try. Hose barbs not matching the fuel hose size, etc. are part of the game.

I will comment that Neil's suggestions for access are important. I originally placed my Racor fuel/water separator in my Catalina 30 under the quarterberth near my fuel tank..bad idea..access was terrible. Put it somewhere you can get a wrench on the drain, and where you can get the filter off & on easily & do things like have a pan large underneath enough to catch the fluids that come out of it.

Keep feeding us data..we'll help you out!

P.S.> Your avatar looks like a C&C 29 if I am not mistaken..those things go upwind like a beast!!! Nice boat!

[roadnsky]

To illustrate what the others have suggested, here's a pic of the Racor in a bulkhead mount.
Note the drain plug in the bottom of the spin-on filter.

And, as Neil & Shawn point out, mount it where you can get to it AND SEE IT regularly.

Mo's advice of posting some pics is also important.
We can help you along a lot better when we have a better idea of your setup.

AND... welcome to the Forum Crew!

[ILikeRust]

I'm gonna hitchhike on here in response to the several comments regarding preferred location for mounting one of these beasts - so, where is a good, suggested type of location?

The PO of my boat thankfully installed one of the Racors. Not-so-thankfully, he mounted it right behind the bulkhead next to an aft quarterberth, so getting at it at all, let alone unscrewing it without getting gasoline all over the place, requires a bit of a contortion act and is, to say the least, a bit difficult. I can only imagine it getting more so as the years go by and I get stiffer...

I've been pondering the possibility of moving it to some place more accessible - it started with the idea of moving the fuel petcock to some place more accessible.

What is the rule regarding vertical location of the filter relative to the tank? I'm thinking that probably is why he put it where he did - it is lower than the tank, and there aren't a lot of good locations for it to be in that position.

I wonder if I might be able to move it forward into the engine box - or is that a very bad idea?

[blhickson]

Thanks!

Thanks to all for the good intel. Working on her this afternoon and will post more ?? w/ pix soon.

[blhickson]

Update and pictures

Hi All, here are pictures of the Purolator filter and its good location (!) on strbd. bulkhead inside engine compartment. I could not figure out how to remove the canister to look at filter. does anyone know? It has a screw on top and bottom. the bottom nut seems to help keep a larger knurled flat knob in place, but I removed the bottom nut to see if crud came out and only about 3 small drops of fuel came out. (And I was ready w/ large coffee can and all!) The fuel was somewhat gritty but not much. With bottom nut removed, I could not budge the bottom knob. A filter wrench could not budge the canister. I am going to just the replace the b!@#$%^ w/ the Racor.
I installed an inline filter below the fuel h20 filter and a primer bulb above it. After pumping fuel into main filter, I started engine and it ran smoothly for 20 minutes before I shut it down.
Also: Why do you close exhaust thru hull before cranking engine when testing? How can water get all the way back to combust.chambers??
Thanks.

[Mo]

Hi Bill,

I personally wouldn`t put it there. If there was ever a leak, drip etc you are right next to ignition sources... distributor, coil, spark plugs...and you are blocking access through the side cover bulkhead. I have found a good place for it is in a lazarette and fuel shut off next to it.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Also: Why do you close exhaust thru hull before cranking engine when testing? How can water get all the way back to combust.chambers??
Thanks.

The short answer is because without the engine running there is no exhaust pressure to blow or force the cooling water out of the exhaust system and it backs up into the engine.

This is especially true if part of the exhaust system is below the outlet level and includes a water lift muffer that needs exhaust pressure to force the water through. The water pump is pumping slowly while you are cranking the no start engine.

If the cooling water flows downhill through the exhaust system and there is no water lift muffler, like my Catalina 27, (gotta get a plug in here for my 27) it won't matter whether you close the valve or not.

TRUE GRIT

[ndutton]

Also: Why do you close exhaust thru hull before cranking engine when testing?

Correction: Raw water intake thru hull, NOT EXHAUST!!