New here, just got an a4

[Sam]

You have received good advice especially regarding getting the Moyer Manual - best $50 you will ever spend. Also recommend an afternoon with the Moyer You tube video's. More importantly a review of past posts highlights various techniques that people have developed over the years regarding changing impellors, oil, distributor/carb maintenace, timing, fuel delivery problem solving etc etc that facilitate ease of work in cramped engine spaces resulting in dependable operations. The techniques/methods/frequency can still be very valid while not being boat model specific. Good luck

[ndutton]

If your access to the water pump is limited (most are), I recommend the Moyer Marine impeller puller. With a little practice it's one hand operation and will pay for itself the first time you use it.

https://moyermarine.com/product/impeller_puller/

[Fred1diver]

I will take pics of the pump tomorrow.
What type of oil do I need for the oil change?

[Fred1diver]

I will post some pictures tomorrow of an unknown hose, it might be to facilitate an oil change, not sure yet.

[Antibes]

There are two recommendations for oil. Rotella Diesel 15w40 and original 30w

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6443

[Fred1diver]

So the water pump is an Oberdorfer, it says so on the cover.

I have a feeling that the hose I’m wondering about is for an oil change

It is connected between the carburetor and the fuel pump and goes to the front of the motor and is plugged at the end

[TimBSmith]

I marked up your picture after flipping it....

Only one item baffles me. I don't have this on my engine.

I cannot see the tube you have in question.

I have an oil fill cap on the back of the engine and the dipstick tube on the front of the engine. Those are the only methods I have of draining or filling the oil.

I pump warm oil out (with device in prior post), measure what I have sucked up, then add new oil.

Please take picture(s) that show the top and both sides of of your engine.

Keep at it....

[Fred1diver]

How much oil do I need?

[Fred1diver]

Hey Tim, the black hose is connected to the drain plug for the oil, the black part on the left is the carburetor and throttle line, on the right is the fuel bowl before the fuel pump, the white hose is the bilge pump hose

[Fred1diver]

Ok, so I am looking for the shell rotella 15-40, but it’s sold out everywhere near me, keep in mind that I’m in Canada. And asking them for 30 weight all they offer is 10 w 30, I need help

[edwardc]

It doesn't HAVE to be Shell Rotella. Any 15w40 oil will do. Its often referred to as "Diesel Oil" because its a very common oil for diesel engines. In the States, its available everywhere, wheras straight 30 weight is somewhat hard to find.

[Fred1diver]

Ok good to know, it will simplify my search
Thank you.


On a second note, I’m going through the service manual and it says to turn the water pump grease cup? Does an oberdorfer pump have one?

[Sam]

Welcome - don't over think the issue too much. Any good quality 10w30 will do just fine [the straight 30 spec was made prior to 10w30 availability] The real issue is time and use between oil changes and winter lay up with new clean oil. There is an old Universal motors 50 hr running rule for oil change sequences but I am not sure the engineers were thinking about A4's being in service 40+yrs after production was halted in 1979 especially engines with out filters.. Modern day detergent oils hold combustion/wear particles in suspension which in theory can decrease the oil's lubricity over time. I live in Chicago with a relatively short season - May thru Oct. I recommend to all A4's in the harbor changing oil for the winter layup just prior to haul out AND mid season, probably something like 20 -30 hrs of total running time [lake is a few hundred yards from the docks]. This assure clean oil lubricating bearings etc and is cheap insurance. As a testament I have a 1966 A4 and has never needed rebuilding and still going strong. [Use to change the oil an additional time in the spring time at launch after winter layup but I convinced myself long ago that this unnecessary and wasteful].

Relative to the amount of oil you should check the dipstick and it roughly changes with installation angle of the engine. I have a Morgan 34, pretty level [0 to 5 degrees] I use 4 1/2qts. On a lady friends 27ft Oday with about 15degree slant we use 3qts.

[Sam]

Added note - 10w40 is fine as well and may quiet down some older engines. Additionalyl the added thickness at summer seasonal temps offers a little more coating or "clingingness" to cylinder walls, bearings, valve guides etc after an engine has been sitting for a while. Can further help reduce "startup" wear.

[sastanley]

Fred, Welcome. I have a project motor that was rebuilt by Moyer with that same oil extraction tube just aft of the carb. It has a copper tube in the oil pan and then the same fittings on the outside where the hose clamp is. I did not attempt to use this on my motor, as I have one of those manual suction pumps that I stick into the dipstick tube. Some folks try small drill driven impeller pumps for oil extraction, etc., that might attach to your hose.

Oil quantity..you might get 3 - 3.5 quarts out of it, but a small amount is always left because the engine is not level. 1 gallon of oil should be plenty...and use the dipstick level to get it right on refill. For the first change, any 10w-30 10w-40 will do..If the condition/age of oil is unknown, I might plan another oil change after several hours to help flush out the crankcase...don't waste expensive oil on this process.

That Sierra filter in your pic is probably an inline fuel filter..that is more important to be filtering properly and clean and replaced than almost anything else IMO. One of Tim's question marks is the 'water seperator' on the mechanical fuel pump. I am personally a fan and still run a mech fuel pump for simplicity. There is a thumb screw (~3/4" diameter??) underneath the cup that loosens the bail and should allow you to remove that cup..that was Universal's answer to a fuel filter/water separator....the theory being that any water would stay in the bottom of the cup and fuel will skim over the top. Hopefully the Sierra catches the majority and you will find the metal cup/bowl full of fuel..it has a cork or rubber gasket to seal it, and some of them have a brass screen in the top flange for filtering debris. I would remove and clean this out, and reinstall...the little 'V' shaped bale on the other half of the pump should pull fuel from the tank and refill the bowl if you get the cup re-seated correctly.

I have attached a picture of a disassembled fuel pump I rebuilt many years ago..you can see the crusty screen and rubber gasket on the right half after I removed the cup...and the little thumb screw retainer slid to right. The v shape bale pointing at you is the primer which actuates the pump when it is assembled on the motor and will prime the pump/carb..when installed, the pump is actuated by a ~1" long stud riding on the camshaft.

Keep asking Q's...a lot of us started here with an A-4 as our first inboard, so I can guarantee I knew ZERO about them before I found the Moyer forum.