paint question after overhaul

[joec43]

Here's a question to you folks who have painted your engines.

I now have the manifold, water jacket cover, carb, fuel pump, everything off the engine, have plugged all the holes with paper towels to begin sanding (wire wheel grinding). After its sanded, will I paint right up to the plugged holes (my preference), or reinstall the parts and paint with everything back on (will get paint on all the bolts, a pain later I should think).

Ok, this is a two part question.

Six months after I installed the new head, it is as rusty as the rest of the engine, so the original paint is not going to last. I want this engine to look good, so can you suggest a primer (if needed), type of paint (white I want), and have been reading about a high temp clearcoat?

Any and all ideas most welcome.
thanks
Joe

http://potogold.wordpress.com/atomic-4-refit/

[rigspelt]

Based on experience of one engine, I much preferred painting parts and then reassembling. Tin foil makes a great masking tool prior to painting.

[Marian Claire]

I repainted the parts separately and used masking tape to cover the surfaces that would contact gaskets. I should have painted the bolts/nuts after assembly because now they are rusting. Lessons learned. Some parts I only primed but they seem to be holding up just fine. I used a good primer, rustoleum I believe, and then off the shelf paint from NAPA. Even using the same brand paint from the same store I ended up with two shades of gold??? I did not repaint the manifold. Looks OK, not great, after 2 years. Can post pics if wanted. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[Mark Millbauer]

Joe,
You want your paint job to look good and last a long time; this is possible but there are methods and materials that work better than others depending on your budget, skills, and how well your shop is equiped. From reading your post, I assume you are not planning on bead blasting any of the parts which would be ideal but a decent job can still be had with tradional scraping, sanding, wire brushing, and etc.

Question:

1. Do you have any experience with proffesional auto body painting techniques and materials or are you hoping to use off the shelf hardware or automotive parts store aerosol types of materials? A good job can be had either way but the proffsional materilas and methods will yeild a beter looking, longer lasting finish.

I have some tried and true methods and product recomendations either way and can post them once I know which way you plan to go.

Mark

[thatch]

Another paint question

All,
Has anyone out there used any of the "rust conversion" primers/paints on their A4's. I ask this because these blocks and pans are so pourous that grinding them down to clean metal could have disastrous results. Just "stabilizing" the remaining material seems like it might be a good idea, or at least for use as a good base coat.
Tom

[joec43]

I am not a pro.........

I have absolutely no experience with professional body or auto painting, and my shop is only equipped with a small (hobby) compressor.

I have no equipment to bead blast, and no spray painting equipment.

I want to do the best job possible that I will be capable of doing myself.

I am hoping to buy aerosol cans for the job.

Thanks for any advice.

[sastanley]

All,
Has anyone out there used any of the "rust conversion" primers/paints on their A4's. I ask this because these blocks and pans are so pourous that grinding them down to clean metal could have disastrous results. Just "stabilizing" the remaining material seems like it might be a good idea, or at least for use as a good base coat.
Tom

Tom,

I found several open bottles of 'rust converter' on my boat when I bought it, so I assume that when the PO thought about it, he might have used it.

All of my sanding/prepping on the motor was by hand with either a wire brush or sandpaper. Then I used a shop vac & a rag with acetone to wipe down what I was about to paint. I did use a soft wire wheel on some components I removed like the fuel pump, t-stat housing, water pump, carb, mixing elbow, etc..with good results.

I was really impressed with how the motor looked last year, but like everything else, watching for rust & touching up is a constant maintenance item on these engines I think. Although the top (visible) part of my motor looks good, the oil pan and some of the block you can't get to with sandpaper & a spray can doesn't look so good.

[thatch]

"An ongoing project"

Shawn,
Thank's for the input. As with most every other area on our boats "Vigilance" should be the word of the day.
Tom

[Mark Millbauer]

Tom,
I have just completed a 2 year test of 9 differenbt rust remover/conversion/primer products. Below you will find 4 of the top 6 performers. The top two involve 2-part proffessional materials. The best one involves sand blasting and heavy duty grinding. The 4 included here can be done by the average do-it-your-selfer.

1. One of the best but most expensive is the POR 15 process. Check it out on line. If you go this route, follow their instructions. They also have a great phone tech service. You can purchase their stuff on line or at any auto body supply store and some good auto parts stores like NAPPA.

2. Scrub, sand, wire brush as much of the rust off that you can. Clean the parts impeccably. First with a good soap like (Dawn) and then with acetone. Apply a good coat or two of West System Epoxy to the parts brushing it into the metal with a soft wire brush. Prime with ACE or Rustolem primer.

3. Scrub, sand, wire brush as much of the rust of that you can. Clean the parts impeccably. First with a good soap like (Dawn) and then with acetone. Then clean an etch with a metal etch product like Ospho, PickleX 20, or any good metal etch. Prime with a spray can of primer called Acid 8. Manufactored by a company called UPOL. The Upol and the metel etch are available at most auto body supply stores.

4. Almost as good as the aforementiond three and definatly the least expensive: Prepare the parts as mentioned above and then paint with ACE Hardware brand Rust Stop Paint. (similar to Rustoleom brand but seems better).

5. Use an automotive engine enamel (Krylon) for your color coat (even over the ACE Rust paint.?


I think you will find that while the paint on the exaust manifold will quickly discolor and fade somewhat, the block and the other parts should look good for a long time. The spary can type colors, even the good engine enamel like Krylon, will loose some gloss in time but my tests indicte that you lshould have good pretty good adhesion with the process above. Good luck.

Mark

[thatch]

"Wow"

Mark,
Thank's for going the extra mile in researching the paint process. I'm sure your information will go a long way in helping our A4's look as good as they (hopefully) run.
Best Regards, Tom

[rigspelt]

Here is my experience of one:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2952

[sastanley]

prep prep prep

As most of us know...the prep work is 87% (OK maybe 90%) of the work...the paint is the fun part.

Nice synopsis on your experience(s) Mark.

[rigspelt]

Apply a good coat or two of West System Epoxy to the parts brushing it into the metal with a soft wire brush.

This is an interesting suggestion. My experience with coating exterior wood with epoxy has not been great because if water gets underneath, it can cause more grief than if the part was not epoxied. Also, what does the epoxy do when the engine heats up?

[joec43]

POR-15 Engine repaint kit ordered today, color white.

Have everything removed, will start power wirebrushing today.

[Administrator]

Time to resurrect this poll?

Bill