Rusted-out Diverter Cap

[Rick_Powers]

OK, so I'm ready to replace my eroded cooling plate bolts with the MMI stud kit.

I have the cooling plate off, and am looking at the old diverter cap on the inside. I have a new one to install.

The old one is so rusted that it is a mere shell of itself, and looks to be totally welded (by rust) to the T-fitting threads.

Should I:

1) Fight with it and try to remove that old cap at any price, including trying to unscrew the T-fitting with risk of damaging that piece.

2) Simply use Cold-Weld to "glue" the new cap in place.

3) Do nothing and leave a big, straight-in opening from the T-valve.

Thanks for the advice. I'd rather not have to get this far into my engine again...

[Rick_Powers]

Question Answered

..via Don over the phone.

The brass T-fitting is easily removed with a 3/4" wrench and a table vise, and the rusted cap fell to the ground...

[Dromo]

Penetrating Oil

What I did with mine was to keep applying penetrating oil for a few days. I generously sprayed oil to both the inside and outside of the cap. Then I placed the T-fitting side of the plate in a vise, in a towel, so it wouldn't damage the brass fitting and used a pipe wrench on the cap to loosen it, you might try tapping the cap every now and then with a hammer to help the oil penetrate.
best of luck: Rick

[rigspelt]

Consider getting the new MMI side plate:

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=OVWJ_07_138

or

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=OVWJ_08_139

- welded alternator adjusting arm pivot point.
- clean gasket surface.
- MMI-designed brass diverter with larger hole aft and smaller hole forward to optimize circulation. Don posted an explanation of this somewhere in the forum archives.

I didn't want to come back to this prematurely either, so that was my choice.

[Rick_Powers]

Side Plate Flange Weld Fix

Yes, I considered buying the new MMI side plate...(nice, shiny, etc)

But, my plate was in fair condition. After speaking to Don on the phone, I took his advice, and took the side plate and alternator flange to my local welder (who is also a sailor! Cool!). For a few bucks, he welded the flange for me.

I installed the new diverter plug and drilled the proper holes in the proper directions.

I am am now dry fitting the two stud kits for the lower 4 bolt holes. One of them is a bit cock-eyed (weird stuff inside the block) so I need to do some minor adjustments to get a proper fit.

Question: What is the best way to dry the inside of the block there to get the Dry-Weld (Epoxy) to bond well? I keep drying it with paper towels and keep getting water. It looks like there is a drain plug bolt aft of the plate opening, is that true?

Thanks!

[s/v Dearbhail]

Rick when I worked mine I used a shop vac to suck out the crud and water. My engine does have a 4" pipe nipple and cap above the accesory drive unit. Removing that did help eliminate the water.

[msauntry]

I have two in my engine, below the #1 cylinder and the #4 cylinder.

I had to break up some black sediment with awls and coathangers to get them to flow.

[sastanley]

Ha...my drain tube (aft) near the accessory drive broke off the other day!

But there should be one back there!