C30 shaft coupler and such.

[The Garbone]

I am progressing on my A4 repower of my C30.

Built a basic jig to sort out bed fitment.

I noticed my shaft coupler is wrong.



Is there a source for the proper part or does anyone have one floating about?

It looks as though the motor will fit with no cutting to my bed, I just need two more of these brackets.




My motor cam with 2 of them and I need 2 more. I may have them fabricated.


Just to share here is my jig sitting between the beds.



Any suggestion welcome.

[roadnsky]

I noticed my shaft coupler is wrong.
Is there a source for the proper part or does anyone have one floating about?

Available here on this site by our sponsor...

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=OREV&keywords=all&template=Templates/B000_storebuilder.html

[Dave Neptune]

Fabricate

Gary that just looks like a piece of "angle iron" with an ear welded on. Most any welding shop or even a buddy with a torch could help you out on this. It is a fabricated pieces and probably not available anywhere.

Dave Neptune

[zellerj]

spit in fiberglass - inside port rail

Gary,

Are you going to take the time to check out your engine mounting rails? Seems like there is quite a crack and I would suspect the integrity of the engine mounting system.

Also if you find it hard, and I suspect you will, to remove the current shaft coupler, some just cut the shaft in two and buy a new shaft with a new split coupler from MMI.

[The Garbone]

Ok, have the coupler on order.

As for the old coupler, one set screw is stripped out and they must be stainless. Am attempting to drill it out but all I am getting is broken and dulled bits for my effort.

The second set screw is not stripped but after the requisite lube and tapping I broke my alan wrench. Hmmm. A lot of corrosion here.

Of course I need to remove the blasted thing to replace the hose section behind the stuffing box. How I am going to do that in a timely manner eludes me.

I may forgo more angle brackets and cut the front of the beds down and use straight stalk instead. Once I get the coupler off it will be easier to shoot a reference line with a laser level.

Might just hit it with a torch. Ugggg.

[The Garbone]

Gary,

Are you going to take the time to check out your engine mounting rails? Seems like there is quite a crack and I would suspect the integrity of the engine mounting system.

Also if you find it hard, and I suspect you will, to remove the current shaft coupler, some just cut the shaft in two and buy a new shaft with a new split coupler from MMI.

The blocks seem solid , just some questionable fiberglass pealing off the interior sides.

Looks like this may be the solution. I wonder how many Sawzall blades my shaft will eat. Guess I will price out a new shaft Monday before cutting the old one.

Hit the old couple with the angle grinder. Many sparks but it appears to be soft metal. I may try to cut it longitudinally with the saw and hope it loosens enough to pound off.

[The Garbone]

And 3 Sawzall blades later.

[marthur]

Nice work!

[RMark]

A4 repower

What motor did your boat have before? I have a 12/7 rh 1" bore prop you can have for price of shipping, if you still need one. Shop around for a shaft if you can, I found perfect used stainless one at a boat yard for 40 bucks.

[The Garbone]

What motor did your boat have before? I have a 12/7 rh 1" bore prop you can have for price of shipping, if you still need one. Shop around for a shaft if you can, I found perfect used stainless one at a boat yard for 40 bucks.

Mark,
Thank you for the offer of a prop. I floated the choices by the budget chairman and got the go ahead to order a 3 blade screw so will be laying out the cash for. That this week.

I have no real idea what the stock motor was on this boat. The original owner posted on my blog last week and I asked but have not received a response. I think I may be able to get an invoice from Catalina but may be wrong on that.

Chopped 6" off the top block of my bed rails. Looks like the stock rails underneath are in good shape.


Do Atomic 4s in C30s sit in the bed/ mount or do the have a wing spacer?

I think I can get the motor to fit now, just need to drill out some brackets and dry fit the jig after cleanup.

[RMark]

My boat originaly had a yanmar ysb 12, flange was four bolt.Does your fuel filler say diesel?I used old A4 pan to mock up mounts, center line of crank is same as gasket surface, made it real easy.Used stock yanmar rubber mounts, simular to ones sold by moyer but with less adjustment leeway.fabricated "wing" mounts out of 3/8" x 2" flat stock with apropriate twist for motor angle.

[The Garbone]

Probably the same motor mine had to start. Filler and tank are for diesel and look stock. I did find a Perkins ID plate in the bilge when cleaning so I think it was up engined at some point. Also my hatch/bench has a big lump built into it for clearance.

Ordered shaft log kit, propeller and some stuffing box wrenches today. Spending money like it is going out of style but it is worth it.

[RMark]

A4 repower

hang in there, its well worth it, you can't beat the A4 for smoothness, quietness and power, especially compared to the little Yanmar! When you get to your hot section consider going up into cabinet with the riser to discourage water backflow issues, one less thing to worry about, have yet to get any water into motor during extended cranking or heeling. I reused tank and filter, just cleaned them out, also reused existing control cables with some creative adaption.

[tenders]

Good work with the Sawzall. Getting that thing off in one piece is probably the worst job I've ever had to do on my boat, which has a v-drive making it more difficult to access. If your next coupler is Moyer's split coupler, you'll never worry about it again.

[67c&ccorv]

Looks like some nice white oak in those engine beds!