Mixing MMO in oil?

[yeahjohn]

I was thinking about mixing some MMO in my oil before my oil change and tune up I am doing this week. Do I simply add a quart off MMO to the oil or does it have to be added to the crankcase and cycled that way? Also do I need to remove a quart of oil first before adding MMO or will the MMO be okay on top of a full load of oil? Don says to run the engine for five hours with MMO in the oil. So I can just use the engine as normal for up to five hours then change my my oil? Thanks!

John

[Al Schober]

John,
Just curious - why the MMO? You have some sticky valves?
If I were adding MMO, I'd probably add a pint to the crankcase during an oil change, then fill up with regular oil. I've never felt the need to add MMO to my crankcase. Not sure why Don's 5 hr limit..
I believe adding MMO to the gas is NOT a good thing. I believe that the gas vaporizes and leaves the oil to coat the intake valves where it finally burns off and coats the back of the valves. I've done one engine where the carbon on the intake valves almost choked off the incoming air flow.

[yeahjohn]

I am trying to increase the overall performance of my engine. I really am hoping to up the compression clearing up any possible build up. I have not been running MMO in the gas and have treated the top end a few times. I have been looking over Dons write ups and figured o would try whatever before a rebuild.

[romantic comedy]

I have used MMO in my gas, just a bit more then the bottle recommends, for 19 years. It has run fine over that time. It does smoke a bit, but I dont know if it is from the MMO, or crankcase. It burns a minimum of oil.

Never added MMO to the crankcase.

I know that Don has had success freeing up rings using MMO by letting it soak in the cylinder.

[capnward]

My 2 cents worth;
I have been using MMO in the gas for 20 years and over 2000 hours, 2 oz. per 5 gallons, and have yet to even look at the valves. I can't imagine how the engine could run any smoother. Maybe my intake valves are hopelessly clogged with oil that burned off and left a residue that closes off the air, but not that I can tell. I have been using MMO with the idea that it prevents that scenario. It seems to me that running too rich for too long would create that effect.
I also have been using it in the oil, but stopped recently. I didn't like the idea of thinning the oil. Maybe that is a mistake, and adding MMO to the oil is what has prevented sticky valves. I have also changed from SAE30 to 15w40 'diesel' oil. Engine is quieter than ever.

[ndutton]

The old shade tree mechanic 'valve job in a can' technique was to slowly pour a quart of oil or a pint of STP in the carburetor of a running engine. It would lay down a smoke screen for 4 blocks but it would also gum up all the loose tolerances inside the engine - - - for a while. Once the smoke subsided new plugs finished the job.

Who still has their oil can spout from the days before plastic bottles with twist caps? Pretty cool.

[Trés 30]

John,

I think you've got it right. Whatever the write-ups say, can't remember if it's a full quart or so many oz. per quart of oil. I would pull out a bit of oil to compensate for the extra volume (one of these helps a lot, a more see-thru type might take out some guess work, avoid plastic transfer pumps from auto stores), but again proceed per Don. Run it for the approx 5hrs and change the oil. It will mix itself up wherever you add it.
I've also started using the 15w40 and have noticed a reduction in exhaust smoke from oil bypassing rings.

[tenders]

I use MMO religiously in the fuel and notice that the valves stick a little when I forget it (my engine doesn't have a thermostat, so it runs cool). Since the A4 was designed, gasoline has been required to meet a whole lot more constraints - lead, oxygen, ethanol, etc - that may not be in keeping with the A4's best interests.

Oil, on the other hand, is better in every way, and I have a hard time believing that there can be anything good in MMO that hasn't already been put into modern oil of the desired viscosity. "Desired viscosity" being the key term here - if the stock 30W or 10W-30 isn't what you're looking for, I'd much rather use a different oil than try to homebrew something else with MMO.

[romantic comedy]

I agee about the modern oil being superior. But if an engine might be having stuck rings, I would think the modern oil would not help to fix it. Adding MMO might help.

Anyone know of John Muir and the Volkswagens? He would pour Bardahl in the carb as an engine fix. I never quite figured out what Bardahl was.

[yeahjohn]

Thanks for the words guys. I was thinking I didn't want to add a quart of mmo to 4 quarts of oil and make a bigger issue than I already have, Ill remove a quart of Oil than add a quart of MMO and do the oil change after running for an hour or two.

I have been running shell rotela T1 sae 30. Maybe its time for a change? I am planning on dumping marvel mystery oil all over the engine and then putting in new spark plugs and fuel filters. I'll see what happens after that.

[roadnsky]

...Anyone know of John Muir and the Volkswagens? He would pour Bardahl in the carb as an engine fix. I never quite figured out what Bardahl was.

I kept 4 different VW's alive with that great book!
(The MMI community reminds me of those great dayz)

BARDAHL'S
"In the mid-1950s-60s, Bardahl was the leading brand of motor oil and oil additives in the United States.
Bardahl's oil additive was advertised in animated TV commercials which showed the product's effectiveness in combating engine problems such as "Dirty Sludge", "Sticky Valves," "Gummy Rings," and "Blackie Carbon"


Notice the price of the "Idiot" Manual

[romantic comedy]

Jerry, I have the same manual. Bought it in 1973 just after I bought my first buggy. I was 13 and that book was handy.

I knew this guy who wrote technical manuals. He said that book was the best technical writing he ever saw. Not sure what he was smoking.....

I have had many VWs over the years. I just sold my last one, a 1967 split window bus.

[roadnsky]

I have had many VWs over the years. I just sold my last one, a 1967 split window bus.

I had a '65 window van with the big sunroof.
Loved that van. Finally sold it to a "HotShot" Firefighter in San Diego back in early 90's.
I still regret selling it.

Ok, we're Way Off Topic... but so what?

PS - Used that oil spout Neil posted hundreds of times.
It's probably still in a box somewhere in my Mom's garage.