Stiffness to go from foward to neutral

[JAcob Nagle]

In my new to me Tartan34 the foward gear transmission was slipping when I put more than half the thottle.

I adjust the foward gear just a notch to see if it would help. While testing at the dock I confirmed that the slipping has stopped but the force that I have to put on the lever to go from foward to neutral seams to put to much strain on the lever and cable. To give you a idea it requires both arm of my girlfriend to put it back to neutral. To engane foward is a bit stiffer than before but still aceptable.

Is there a way to adjust that. If I slack the adjustement wheel 1 notch counterclock wise the slipping will occur again.

I have not play with the reversing gear adjustement and I am wondering if this will help.

[JOHN COOKSON]

A big welcome to the forum.
Have you tried disconnecting the shift cable at the transmission shift lever and moving the lever by hand to shift in and out of gear? This will give us an idea whether there is a trany problem or a shift cable problem.
Off the top of my head it sounds 2 me like the outer trany shift cable cover is not well fixed down and slipping.

TRUE GRIT

[JAcob Nagle]

Thank you John for your welcome.

I have tried by hand at the engine and it is as hard. If i revert to the orignal position on the adjusting wheel it is way easier to change gear but my original probleme of tranny slipping comes back.??

[Jim Creech]

I'm having the same problem. With the current setting I have stopped the slipping however it takes a near Herculean effort to to get in and out of forward. No problem with reverse. Loosen one notch and easier to shift but slipping at approx 1/3 to 1/2 throttle.
Note: I was having this problem last year and pulled the gearbox. Clutch plates were measured for flatness as were the pressure plate and body. all were about as flat as can be achieved. The only thing I could not confirm was the amount of wear on the clutch plates as I can find no reference as to the original thickness but they averaged .110 thick (the bronze plates). At this point I have to assume that the clutch plates are just worn out. Any body know where new ones can be obtained? They are not in the online catalog.

[TomG]

I'm having the same problem. With the current setting I have stopped the slipping however it takes a near Herculean effort to to get in and out of forward. No problem with reverse. Loosen one notch and easier to shift but slipping at approx 1/3 to 1/2 throttle.
Note: I was having this problem last year and pulled the gearbox. Clutch plates were measured for flatness as were the pressure plate and body. all were about as flat as can be achieved. The only thing I could not confirm was the amount of wear on the clutch plates as I can find no reference as to the original thickness but they averaged .110 thick (the bronze plates). At this point I have to assume that the clutch plates are just worn out. Any body know where new ones can be obtained? They are not in the online catalog.

You're not running synthetic oil per chance?

[Mo]

Tarton 34 is a big heavy boat to be pushing with A4. Just have a look and see what type drive you have on it. You likely have a reduction drive and the boat should do hull speed at about 1/2 throttle. Over that, you might find slippage because it's easier to slip than push that heavy boat faster, past her hull speed.

My thoughts are that you now have it too tight...back off one notch and see how it goes for you.

[Jim Creech]

You're not running synthetic oil per chance?

No. I went thru that last year, after I had dismantled the gear. Currently running Rotella T-1.

[romantic comedy]

Tartan 34 came with a standard 1:1 gear. I wish it had a reduction gear. Indigo electric prop was designed using Toms T 34. The boat has a 25 foot water line and specs at 11,500 pounds.

[Jim Creech]

Suspicion confirmed... Worn clutch plates.

[67c&ccorv]

Suspicion confirmed... Worn clutch plates.

Worn clutch plates will not cause hard shifting.

Just sayin'?

"12. How long should the forward clutch disks last in the reversing gear?
Indefinitely. The forward clutch disks are faced with a very durable bronze material instead of the asbestos material used on automotive type of clutches (with which most of us are much more familiar). The forward clutch assembly is lubricated by a constant supply of engine oil flowing through, and around, the disks.

The in-service life of the forward clutch assembly is more like an industrial application (engage and stay engaged for long periods of time) than it is an automotive application (engage and disengage at every street corner). - Updated: November 4, 2003"

[67c&ccorv]

Thank you John for your welcome.

I have tried by hand at the engine and it is as hard. If i revert to the orignal position on the adjusting wheel it is way easier to change gear but my original probleme of tranny slipping comes back.??

Do you have an MMI manual?

[Jim Creech]

Worn clutch plates alone will not cause hard shifting,agreed; however, when it becomes necessary to "pre load" the pressure plate to compensate for the wear it does become difficult. In this case the plates are worn very smooth thus requiring more than "normal" compression of the plates to prevent slippage. In my situation I adjusted the collar to the point where the slipping stopped however it required a great deal of effort to get to the forward detent (both arms and some body weight). Backing off the adjustment collar one notch and I can shift somewhat more easily but the clutch "breaks" or releases at approximately 25% throttle. No issues with reverse.

[Marty Levenson]

adjustment

interesting note with the listing for the collar in the online catalog....

[edwardc]

interesting note with the listing for the collar in the online catalog....

Yes, the improved adjusting collar (OREV_05_306) has more notches, allowing for a finer amount of adjustment per notch, just to address this very problem.

[Jim Creech]

Replaced worn clutch plates. Shifting is back to "normal"...No slipping. All that's left to do is fine tune the engine alignment. Had to pull the engine to remove reverse gear.