Water Pump service

[positron]

I'm servicing the raw water pump for the first time. Given its location and the need to do everything by feel I'm guessing its been a while since this was last serviced. I pulled the impeller out and the shaft came with it, easily- is this normal? I cannot get the impeller off the shaft, it slides out until the impeller bumps into something- any hints here? I can borrow a gear puller if needed. Finally, any tips on what to do with the grease cup?

Thanks,
Terry
P30, Annapolis

[Ball Racing]

There should be a snap ring holding it on.

[Dromo]

There is a snap-ring at the end of the shaft ,but the shaft should pull right out of the pump housing .

I think in your case I would remove to pump to service it.

2 bolts ,one on top and one on bottom , use a deep dish sockit for the bottom bolt with a small extention .

If your working by bind/feel its the same amount of work ,but you will be able to inspect the pump .
It sounds like the shaft might be worn.
As for the grease cup, put marine grease in it.
Cheers Rick

[jpian0923]

I agree with taking out the pump, much easier way to fix it and not drop anything into the bilge.

When working on stuff in the back of the engine I use a hand held mirror, about 4" by 5". That will give you an idea of whats back there.

Also, a digital picture or video helps. Take a pic or video and study it before attempting a repair.

I've actually considered mounting a permanent mirror to my fuel tank so I can see the back of the engine without sticking my arm back there.

About the grease cup...clean it and add new grease.

[CalebD]

I'm not sure about the P 30' with engine access to the water pump but if it is bad as you intimate I might consider 'creating' better access.
Smaller portable mirrors and light when properly aligned will help you remove the 2 bolts from the water pump (WP). It is much easier to inspect that way BUT you might need to get a new gasket for the WP cover (<= $5) - depending on the model of pump when you go to replace it.

[Ajax]

In the P30, you either go down through the stbd cockpit locker and work next to the engine, or you crawl into the pipe bunk on the port side, and cut a small access scuttle in the non-permanent bulkhead material hiding the engine. You can then lay on the bunk and get way into the engine space comfortably, and see everything.

I suspect Positron is going in through the trash can hatch under the galley sink, and/or under the companionway steps next to the trash can hatch.

Positron, check your PM's.

[sastanley]

Trash can hatch?????

Man, you P-30 guys are lucky!

[smosher]

Trash Can Hatch, hahahaha, I have a P30 ans thats where I keep my little trash bucket.

I had to crawl through the starbd locker to get at our friend mr lower bolt and I had to remove the pump drain. I do love my new extendobolt.

Steve

[Sony2000]

Inside the grease cup there is a check valve to stop the water from mixing with the grease. It's a simple brass device that looks like a .22 shell with a small hole in the closed end. Inside the shell there should be a ball, that pushes up and closes the hole.

[Jesse Delanoy]

If you don't already have it, buy the extension bolt from Moyer for the lower water pump mounting bolt. It's not so critical when you're pulling the pump, but you'll find it WAY easier when it's time to put it back in. I needed about three joints on my wrist to grab the stock bolt and insert it, and I had a Catalina 30 with terrific rear engine access!

[positron]

Thanks for all the tips. Tonight's task was to remove the exhaust pipes which form a very effective barrier between the pipe berth and the engine. Once I got most of them out of the way, I could reach the water pump with both hands and even catch occasional glimpses of it. Years ago, I would have described the access as quite adequate. Now, with the added benefit of wisdom and another 45 lbs over my fighting trim, the access is merely possible. Two steps forward!

[Sony2000]

I passed on changing the seals. The drip was small, and the challenge seemed great compared to the reward. Also I wasn't sure if the brass retainers holding the seals, were to be reused?

[smosher]

Moyer, has a water pump rebuild kit which includes the seals.

You already know you have a leak, how do you know some water is not getting into the engine.

I know its a pita, to pull the pump, but the reward is a pump which will provide many years of leak free service. You will have to address it sooner or later.

Steve

[Sony2000]

When I passed on changing the seals, the engine hadn't run in at least seven years, and I received it in pieces. Now that it is running well, sort of, I'm retracing my steps. I have 2 new neopryne seals, considered to be the replacement kit. BUT the old seals are in removeable brass jackets, that might get bent upon removal. And I didn't know if the replacement seals go in, with or without the jackets.
When my engine goes back into the boat, the pump can be removed easily. A little water is dropping onto the floor at present, so possibly nothing is getting into the oil sump. Also the oil is not splashing out and onto the floor.
If we have to reuse the brass jackets, good luck!
The big question is, do we? Do the new seals fit so as to not require the brass casings?

[Ball Racing]

My old seals were on a "brass" looking backer, it was all one piece as the rubber was molded to it.
and it took alot of work to get the seals out.
The old ones, were fatter looking seals than the replacements, but the new ones go right back in place.
But I am not sure about seperate brass casings.