Lots of Engine Issues - Help troubleshooting

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  • SailFast
    Member
    • Jun 2023
    • 3

    Lots of Engine Issues - Help troubleshooting

    Hey all -

    Glad to be part of the community!

    I’ve learned a ton through accessing various topics in the past to figure stuff out on my 76 Ranger 33’ Sail with Atomic 4 fresh water cooled engine. Now, I need a little more help….as “I don’t know what I don’t know”.

    My issues started about a year and a half ago with a hard start. Took 5-10 minutes to get it to start. In the process, I left the thru-hull open to raw water and on examination of the oil later, found it looked milky.

    Following the forums advice (Don Moyer), I changed the oil a few times thinking I had ingested it in the hard start setting. Problem is, there is still prescience of water (or something else) getting in the oil.

    In starting up this spring, I had planned to pump it out again and start to investigate further. I started up the boat a few times over the last couple of months, only to find about a month ago, it wouldn’t start. I went through checking the batteries, checked if I had spark in the plugs (yes and changed them), checked compression (1 & 2 are at about 85-90 and 3 & 4 are at about 55-65 psi…so low on two of them….yet appears it should start with these numbers) and then led me to check the carburetor.

    Pulled the carb and found it was really dirty. Intake has a brown colored substance on it (rust?) and a little was present in the flame arrestor area. All the jets were plugged with a bunch of gunk. In seeing this, instead of just cleaning and throwing on the engine, given the other issues, I determined to get to the root issue.

    Everything I have read is pointing to some failure of a head gasket, head or block leak. Am I thinking right? The only other thing I can think of is some sort of blockage in the exhaust.

    Other symptoms I’ve experienced include seeing smoke due to overheating sporadically from the rear water exhaust, loss of power in motoring once (about 1 1/2 years ago), some oil residue/leakage near the exhaust manifold exit of the engine area, failure of the fresh water pump (replaced 4 years ago from Moyer marine) and temperature gauge showing high heat at startup (believe its a failure of the sending unit or thermostat).

    I’ve started pulling things apart to get to visually inspect the cause of these issues, but don’t want to go too far needlessly. I’ll post pictures and hopefully from what you SEE and I DESCRIBE you’ll be able to assist, as I’m really a novice.

    Here’s what I‘ve done so far:

    I pulled the Heat Exchanger and inspected it and noticed a little oil in the presence of the coolant. Not sure if this was from when the fresh water pump failed or something new. I didn’t flush the system when replacing the pump previously. I was really negligent…not knowing you need to change the anodes in this thing either. In inspecting it and flushing it out, it seems like it’s in good shape with none of the chambers compromised.

    I pulled the Carburetor and cleaned with carb cleaner with new gaskets on order.

    I started removing the head nuts on the engine. Snapped one on the thermostat housing, the others the nuts came off with the exception of two where the whole studs came out.

    Question: On pulling the studs, one of the holes filled up with coolant. Is this normal or does it indicate a compromising in the block or something else? Also, in cleaning out the thermostat, housing and reservoir, it seems there is a brown substance. Is this oil or something else? Again, what does this reveal?

    I started removing the exhaust manifold, but can get off one of the screws to that connects the flange to the exhaust (need to bring a different tool and shrink like ant man to get at it . I’ve pulled it away the engine as far as I can and it appears there is rust-like debris and fluid around the area the carb attaches to the intake.

    My big question, where should I be focusing my attention given all the symptoms and images? Or is more needed?

    Link to images: https://share.icloud.com/photos/001O...pwbSNIBnTOozAA

    Thanks for any support you’re able to give!
  • joe_db
    Afourian MVP
    • May 2009
    • 4527

    #2
    If you have low compression and oil in the coolant, odds are high the head gasket is beat.
    Joe Della Barba
    Coquina
    C&C 35 MK I
    Maryland USA

    Comment

    • Dave Neptune
      Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
      • Jan 2007
      • 5050

      #3
      WOW that's a lot

      That's a lot of neglected maintenance. Get the head off and look at the head gasket carefully between the two low compression cylinders as that could well be the water incursion as per Joe.

      Water coming up from the head studs is OK as many thread into the water jacket.

      Get the manifold off and do a pressure check as it could well be rusted through allowing water to encroach there too. The rusty watery deposits on in the throat of the carb also indicate a possible manifold breach.

      The carb needs a good soaking and a complete disassembly of the jets and air correctors to be sure the passages are clear, Do be sure to take a small wire to the idle ports. One is above the butterfly plate and the other below when the throttle is closed.

      In the future don't ever allow watery oil to sit in the motor that can really cause a lot of damage and extra work.

      Over heating is also something that should be addressed WHEN it happens. You don't want to crack the block or have the engine seize up. Do check the t-stat in a pan of water on the stove to be sure it is opening completely as well as closing.

      There will probably be more as your saga unfolds.

      Dave Neptune

      Comment

      • SailFast
        Member
        • Jun 2023
        • 3

        #4
        Pressure Test Manifold

        How do you do a pressure test when the manifold is off the engine? Can you point me to a resource please and thank you!

        Originally posted by Dave Neptune View Post
        Get the manifold off and do a pressure check as it could well be rusted through allowing water to encroach there too. The rusty watery deposits on in the throat of the carb also indicate a possible manifold breach

        Dave Neptune

        Comment

        • Dave Neptune
          Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
          • Jan 2007
          • 5050

          #5
          You block off one end of the water jacket either the exit or entrance with a pipe plug. Then in the other end mount a pressure gage with a shrader valve (like on your tires on a bike or car) and pump in a bit of air. If the gage holds pressure your good to go and if not the water jacket is leaking into the intake runners so it will need replacing

          The parts can be cobbled together from most hardware stores. There are many threads on this site to gather any info you need for pressure checking. I have seen some have success just cutting a valve out of a bike tube and clamping it to a slip fitting on a "tee" to pump the air in.

          I have done it by plugging one end and sucking on the other and if the suction holds against your mouth or lips it's good to go. Clean the fitting for your mouth well.

          Dave Neptune

          Comment

          • capnward
            Afourian MVP
            • Aug 2012
            • 335

            #6
            I have pressure tested the block and manifold by blowing into the entrance, not sucking from the exit. A lot less unpalatable that way, and you can put more pressure into it. A hand pump with a gauge would be much better. I overheated my A4 badly once and it still retained compression. It didn't seize although I was halfway expecting it to. Turned it off several times to cool it. Put more water in it and kept going. Felt like I had to get back to the dock. Good to have a sailboat. The temperatures around the plugs were 400 degrees on the laser. I was amazed. These are great little engines. My 1972 Datsun pickup with the aluminum head would not have survived that. I warped that head a few times before realizing I needed a new radiator. Those were the days.

            Comment

            • SailFast
              Member
              • Jun 2023
              • 3

              #7
              So…what I found when removing the head is what appears to be a crack in the gasket by Cylinder 3. However, not sure if that’s the official cause of the coolant in oil.

              I pressure tested the exhaust manifold and that was fine. The exhaust riser was gunked up a bit in the water portion and cleaned out with a muriatic acid/water mix.

              I won’t be able to test the block until it’s back assembled, but hopefully I’ve resolved the issue with the new head gasket and exhaust riser clean out. 🤞

              I’ve linked pictures below if anyone wants to take a look at the mess discovered in tear down. It’s all cleaned up now and ready to reassemble.

              IMAGES: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ddx...lNvaovaiaMEDow

              Comment

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