Reducing the drip from prop stuffing box

[anhinsb]

I have a fast drip from my prop stuffing box. It was suggested for me to turn each of the nuts in order to reduce the drip. I can not figure out which direction to turn them. I know right-tight, left-loose, but is it towards the engine or propeller? Also, what is the best tool for the job? I have tried with a pipe wrench. I have less upper body strength and I might not be using the right tool. My stuffing box looks a lot like the one in the picture in the link below. Maybe I need to clean it first to make turning easier? Any advice?..... Thank you. April

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2851

[msmith10]

Look at the photo you referenced-- the cleaned up one. The hex fitting on the left is where the shaft enters the stuffing box from the engine side. The hex fitting in the middle is a lock nut. The hex fitting on the right is toward the shaft tube side (where the shaft exits the hull).
First, loosen the lock nut. To do this you will have to hold the right hex fitting and turn the lock nut clockwise as you are facing the shaft tube (from the engine end). Next you can tighten the packing nut (the one on the left). Do this by turning the hex fitting on the left clockwise while you are looking from the engine end toward the shaft tube. Again, you'll have to hold the rightmost hex fitting while you do this. When you think you've tightened enough, retighten the lock nut up against the packing nut by turning it counterclockwise (when looking at the assembly from the engine end toward the shaft tube). Again, hold the rightmost fitting still.
Cheap tools to do this with are plumber's adjustable wrenches. These are cast wrenches that aren't much good for anything else but they work well for this job. Lowes, etc, carry them. Should cost $10 or less. You'll need 2. A pipe wrench will work if you are careful not to strip the fittings.

[msmith10]

Also, it wouldn't hurt to hit the threads and nuts with some liquid wrench or PB Blaster and let them sit for a while to loosen up the crud.

[keelcooler]

April, Soak w/PB blaster, inside lock nut clockwise to brake loose. Wire brush threads. You will need two pipe wrenches. Hold the gland nut and turn inner lock nut.

Bend up an old ice pick tip into a hook for old packing removal. Replace w/ same size packing, don't wrap but cut single rings and place w/joints staggered.

It's a job to be done ashore. If you tear/ dislodge the hose or damage the end of the fiberglass shaft tube, you want to be on land.

Not to tight, it needs a slight drip to water cool when revolving. Readjust as needed as you put a little use on. To tight and the gland nut will overheat, start to squeal and burn a groove in the shaft.

[CalebD]

PB Blaster and MaineSail

I 2nd the use of PB Blaster. Spray it on there and let sit for a day or two before attempting to move the bolts.
Also, this is one of the best online tutorials on stuffing box repair that I have found: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
Good luck.

[jhwelch]

When I had my shaft being replaced (boat out of the water) I took off the
packing nuts and cleaned up the threads with gentle use of a wire brush.

When I'm adjusting the nut (laying on my stomach with my arms reaching
forward around pipes & hoses) it's easier for me to loosen the packing nut
and then turn the lock nut before tightening the packing nut against it;
there's more "meat" on that large packing nut to get my fully-opened
vice grips (tied with a rope, so they aren't lost in the bilge) around.

-jonathan

[anhinsb]

Thanks guys. All wonderful advice. I will implement when I return to the boat. I apppreciate it all.

April