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  #26   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-10-2015, 11:13 PM
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Sure, as long as it works. A few considerations though:
  • Be careful to avoid slobbering RTV inside the thermostat housing. You don't want it affecting the thermostat nor do you want it dislodging and drifting downstream possibly causing a clog. Frankly, I'm not sure how it can be avoided.
  • I'd be less inclined to try this with a pressurized fresh water cooling system.
  • You can always make a gasket with stock material from an auto parts store but watch the thickness. Too much will reduce the effectiveness of the double action part that restricts the bypass port at the top of the housing dome.
Many of us will work up a Moyer parts order and throw in spare gaskets for combined shipping.

Regarding a question in your first post, I'd avoid Muriatic acid for the thermostat. Vinegar works fine and is far less aggressive. The Holley three spring thermostat is much sought after and no longer available so treat it like a fine gem.
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  #27   IP: 24.56.243.202
Old 12-12-2016, 12:11 AM
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Hey folks, my thermostat is kaput (engine runs waaay too cool always, probably stuck open) and I want to install a new one. I've read all about the original double acting Vs single acting with bypass valve, but I'm not sure what's currently installed on my A4. See the pictures below. It sort of looks like I've got that 1/4" spacer, and those fancy nuts look like what are in the Moyer kit. If so, all I need is to order the CSTH_01_510 and OI should be good, right? So, can someone tell from these pics whether this is the case? Thanks



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  #28   IP: 68.111.10.118
Old 12-12-2016, 01:29 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Are You RWC Or FWC?

Why not take the thermostat out and see what is going on? They you can test the thermostat in a pan of heated water to see if it is closing and opening correctly.
If the thermostat is cruded up maybe all you need is to soak the thermostat in vinegar. If the cooling system is full of crud it would be a good time to do an acid flush.

TRUE GRIT
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  #29   IP: 137.200.32.6
Old 12-12-2016, 07:53 AM
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Take the elbow off too!
Mine was totally plugged with goo and pretty much disabled the thermostat.
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  #30   IP: 184.0.21.175
Old 12-12-2016, 10:38 AM
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One a side note, can you tell us what that ducting in front of the manifold is for?
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  #31   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 12-12-2016, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadnsky View Post
One a side note, can you tell us what that ducting in front of the manifold is for?
Exhaust hot section heat shield?

Wristwister, my RWC engine ran between 100° and 120° with a functioning 140° Holley 3 spring thermostat. I did the vinegar soak and stove top test but still the same result. Low temp is not necessarily conclusive that the T-stat is dead.
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Last edited by ndutton; 12-12-2016 at 10:48 AM.
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  #32   IP: 76.7.99.222
Old 12-12-2016, 10:46 AM
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Makes sense with the exit hose from the manifold heading in the same direction.
Dan S/V Marian Claire
Edit: I believe wristwister has a Tartan. It may be one with the A-4 mid-ship and off to port with the standpipe exhaust so having the exhaust exit the flywheel end would make sense.
Slow day here in the mtns.

Last edited by Marian Claire; 12-12-2016 at 11:13 AM.
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  #33   IP: 70.199.155.181
Old 12-12-2016, 01:53 PM
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Thanks for the quick advice folks. Yes, that's a heat shield. Like Marian said, it's a Tartan 30 with the engine up front just behind the mast. The exhaust runs forward and out.

ndutton, I'm curious how you'd be running at ~100 with a known good $140 thermostat. Bad temp sender? I my case, I've been running consistently ~180 for years, then one day started registering no higher than ~120.

Yes, I agree I should pop out the thermostat, test it, do the acid soak etc. I plan to do that. It's just that I've learned the hard way that anything can happen on even the simplest of tasks on a 44 year old marine engine. Busted screws, bad fittings, other weird anomalies. I just want to be fully prepared before I crack that first nut to prevent the boat being out of commission for too long once I get started.
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  #34   IP: 161.213.49.150
Old 12-12-2016, 03:08 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Remember the lower the resistance in the sending unit, as the engine heats up, the higher will be the gauge reading.*
So if there is resistance in the circuit temp sending unit -> gauge the gauge will read abnormally low. Edit: Corrosion on the wire end fastener will have the same effect.
To test for resistance in the boat's wiring let the wire loose at the sending unit and loose at the gauge then connect a jumper wire at one end and measure the resistance at the other two ends. S\B zero ohms.
*By way of illustration, as best I can recall at the moment, the spec for my temp sending unit is something like 550 ohms at 70 degrees and 30 ohms at 212 degrees.

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Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; 12-12-2016 at 03:12 PM.
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  #35   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 12-12-2016, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wristwister View Post
curious how you'd be running at ~100 with a known good 140 thermostat. Bad temp sender?
I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the gauge and sender at the time but the stove top thermostat test was done carefully and it began to open a little before 140°, was fully open by 140° so the stat was performing to spec.

I'm not so sure the front of the head right next to the thermostat housing (late model) is the best place to sense temperature.
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  #36   IP: 24.56.243.202
Old 01-01-2017, 09:59 PM
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OK folks, the next chapter of the Tartan's running-too-cool saga:

I popped out the thermostat, it's definitely the single-acting with the bypass, but the bypass has no restrictor valve. The thermostat was pretty gunky, and closed. I did the vinegar soak, cleaned it up, and tested, opening at 160 just as it should. It definitely wasn't stuck open and likely was working fine.

So ... any ideas why the engine is running so cool? Could it be because there's no restrictor in the bypass loop? This would be weird, because it's been running at ~180 for the last few years, and then one day last summer it just started running cool, going no higher than 120. Ideas?
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  #37   IP: 72.194.218.226
Old 01-02-2017, 01:00 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wristwister View Post
O
So ... any ideas why the engine is running so cool? Could it be because there's no restrictor in the bypass loop?
Maybe i'm not reading this right but no restriction in the bypass would cause the engine to hotter not cooler. The bypass is just that: water goes around the engine via the bypass and not through the engine thus not cooling it. Said another way restricting the bypass causes the engine to run cooler.
Did you check the wiring for resistance? Post #34.

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  #38   IP: 96.76.48.110
Old 02-12-2022, 01:56 PM
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Soot in thermostat

Hello guys,
Joined the forum to learn how to maintain properly my Atomic 4 which I have on Coronado 30. I'm new to the engines so please don't throw stones in my direction I have few issues with my A4 among others is milky oil/moisture in first two cylinders.
I'm trying to understand how would the soot/grime get into the thermostat per pics attached. Could it be the manifold has a crack sipping water in mixed with exhaust gas when operating? The engine is raw sea water cooled.

Any thoughts or ideas?
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  #39   IP: 69.251.78.78
Old 02-12-2022, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JuniorAtomic View Post
Hello guys,
Joined the forum to learn how to maintain properly my Atomic 4 which I have on Coronado 30. I'm new to the engines so please don't throw stones in my direction I have few issues with my A4 among others is milky oil/moisture in first two cylinders.
I'm trying to understand how would the soot/grime get into the thermostat per pics attached. Could it be the manifold has a crack sipping water in mixed with exhaust gas when operating? The engine is raw sea water cooled.

Any thoughts or ideas?
Do you know the compression in the cylinders? Milky oil and moisture could mean a ruptured head gasket between those two cylinders with issues. That could also account for the dirty thermostat. You can get an inexpensive compression tester online, or borrow one from an auto parts store. It's an easy test to do.

I recommend you start a new thread on this issue.
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  #40   IP: 69.250.111.245
Old 02-12-2022, 08:17 PM
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  #41   IP: 96.76.48.110
Old 02-15-2022, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchee View Post
Do you know the compression in the cylinders? Milky oil and moisture could mean a ruptured head gasket between those two cylinders with issues. That could also account for the dirty thermostat. You can get an inexpensive compression tester online, or borrow one from an auto parts store. It's an easy test to do.

I recommend you start a new thread on this issue.
Thank you for your reply and a suggestion. Now that I've been on this forum for few days I see that I should have probably started with oil changes and a compression test. What we did was to pull out the engine from the boat to take a look at it closer in a garage...
The moisture in 1,2 cyl is an ongoing issue that was fixed temporarily couple years ago by a local mechanic and now looks like it's back and I have some ideas on what is causing this which I will share in relevant Discussion Topics threads
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Old 02-15-2022, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
Jr.
Plus One...start a new thread on your particular issue so we can keep it all isolated to you! And, welcome aboard.
Thank you and will do!
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