Tips for changing the propeller ??

[JDK]

Any last minute tips for me before I try to change props in the morning ? I think I'm all ready, have a breathing machine, two jaw puller, adjustable wrench, pliers, new Indigo propeller, new key, new nuts, new cotterpin, all I need is to check how much room I'll have on the shaft to see what zinc will fit, but I'll get that soon, in freshwater anyways for now....

[JDK]

One thing I am curious about is whether or not putting it in gear will be enough to hold it while I break the old nuts loose, or will I have to take a piece of a branch down there with me to jam it from turning....

[Al Schober]

It depends on how the prop was installed. The right way is to force the prop onto the taper far enough so the taper holds tight. This is usually done using the fat nut. The fat nut is then removed, the thin nut installed, then the fat nut again. The two nuts are jammed together and the cotter pin installed. There's actually a slight clearance between the two nuts and the prop. In this case, removal would involve removing the cotter, then unjamming the nuts - no torque going into the shaft. With the nuts off, you pull the prop. Out of the water is easier - you can put some heat to it!
If the two nuts are hard against the prop and/or in the wrong order, you could have more of a battle.

[joe_db]

I always used a piece of wood to keep the prop from turning. The engine compression is no where near enough.

[romantic comedy]

always use a piece of wood between the hull and prop.
Is this an in water change. I like to pull the shaft, in water or out, if possible. It makes it so much easier. Bring a torch too.

Some people fit the prop to the shaft using valve grinding compound.

Now does the big nut go on first or the little nut?

[JDK]

like i said, breathing machine, so yes definately in the water, i hadnt planned on being able to obtain the equipment to do it myself but that ended up working out immediately so instead of waiting another month and then wasting the little money i get on traveling 50 miles inland and hauling the boat out for just one day i will be doing it this morning tied alongside a floating dock in five feet of water with firm bottom so anything i drop will not be lost forever.....

i will figure out how fat a something i need to jam it from turning and then ill find a big stick or something and jam it right in there and get it done.....it must have been off in 1999, when alot of stuff was last overhauled, but thats a long time to get frozen on there......im sure itll pop loose, its all so small anyways......hopefully later ill be on here reporting how fast and smooth my boat motors with the new prop, wish me luck

[Mermaidquest]

I have often used a 2 lb,hammer to"pop" the puller with once tightened. don't take the nuts off till the prop is free of the shaft or you maybe into a search and "maybe" recovery operation! I have also put a dive bag over the prop and and tied it to the shaft so as not to loose everything. I did underwater work in the army. SFUWO.

[thatch]

I will echo all of the comments made so far and add one more important piece of info. It is vital that the key "not" be too tall for the keyway. In other words, the prop should contact the shaft on it's taper without crushing the key. We assume that the keys will fit properly, but I have see props and propshafts with the keyways cut at varrying depths. On land it is easy to slip the prop on without the key, make a mark on the shaft at the aft end of the prop and then compare the assemply with the key installed. In the water It's a little more difficult where I have relied on making sure that there is no "rocking" between the prop and shaft before tightening the nuts.
Tom

[Al Schober]

Before using a hammer to loosen the prop, keep in mind that the impact from the hammer goes back up the shaft and into the rear transmission bearing. If you do use a hammer this way, you may be replacing that bearing in a short time.

[JDK]

there is absolutely no way to put a two jaw puller onto that shaft, there is like zero clearance, and besides that i wasnt able to take it apart anyways because instead of a cotter pin and two nuts it has some roughly cone shaped large metal clip thing covering the entire end of the shaft, behind this is one nut, one washer flopping around loose, and behind all that the prop is pushed on, with visible clearance, no contact with the loose washer or the nut behind it......poking and prodding at that clip looking thing didnt reveal any obvious way to take it off, so i need to ask what the heck that piece is and what the procedure for loosening and removing it is.....

[JDK]

maybe ill end up in the boatyard still but im hoping that maybe after getting that end thing off and finding a different type of puller that will fit with zero clearance that i will still be able to get it off, and save myself that money......sorry i dont have an underwater camera, even so, its really murky in the caloosahatchee now and to see clearly i had to be behind the prop with the light shining from the side on it and my face only inches away........

[JDK]

looks like this type of puller would definately fit the clearance if i could get it around it.......i wonder if any of the local divers have these and if they would do it cheaply......

https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/walter-no1-plate-puller

[thatch]

Choices

JDK, Before I became a sailor I was involved with ski-boats and race-boats, all of which had prop changes done on dry land. During some prop testing on my Catalina-30 a couple of years ago the changes were made in the water and the challenges were significantly greater. Considering the complication of your prop change, I would have to say that it might be like comparing working on earth as compared to outer space. Sometimes it's best to take a step back and consider the cost, time, complexity and the quality of the finished product.
Tom

[sailboatguy]

the "cone shaped metal clip"could be a base for a prop nut anode. They are threaded on and usually secured with a cotter pin. Not easy underwater if you are not familiar with what you have. Good luck!

[Mermaidquest]

under water prop removal

Most likely the cover on the shaft nuts is for a zinc.I have a similar situation on mine. it does screw on to the shaft.there is a allen head screw that attaches the zinc to it . You can use a brass drift secured with a large vicegrip pliers(to hold it) making it manageable under water.loosen the nuts and strike the propeller hub from the backside of the hub.It will pop loose. then remove the nuts,prop. This has worked for me numerous times in the past.I used to get paid to do this.