Reverse "too tight"?

[GregH]

is it possible to have reverse band too tight such that there is slippage when in neutral or fwd, but don't have to hold the gear selector in reverse once set by the lever (meaning I can get about 25-40% reverse without holding the level back). I'm assuming the gear selector cable needs replacing but it doesn't feel too hard to move..

I plan to go into and loosen the reverse band nut slightly to see but thought I would pose the musings to the hive-mind.

[Al Schober]

The reverse adjustment is a funny thing.
Biggest down side to having the reverse adjustment too tight is that you risk shearing the pin holding the roller.
When in forward, the shifter cone moves away from the engine and engages the clutch fingers. In reverse, the shifter cone moves towards the engine and should almost contact the adjusting ring for fwd - 1/16 to 1/8 clearance is good. If it's further away, try backing off the reverse band screw and try again. If you can't get the shifter cone to come within 1/8" of the fwd ring then your linkage needs adjustment.
Once you get full travel of the shifter cone, you can adjust reverse. Snug up the reverse nut so it doesn't slip in reverse. Shouldn't take much as you don't need much power in reverse.

[CnC for me]

Reversing housing breakage

So.....
While replacing the hex head pin, apparently I applied too much force and the casting that forms the screw threads snapped. Didn't feel like much pressure so perhaps it was cracked but in any event, the spoked ring now has no way to be held in place.

Obviously at some point I will need to disassemble and replace that part but in the meantime several questions....

1) what is the risk of using reverse without the adjustment ring held in place?

2) what is the risk of using forward without the adjustment ring held in place?

3) what creative ideas does the hive mind have that might help safely use the system.

Thanks in advance for the input.

Karl

[msmith10]

You can repair the broken out adjusting collar retaining screw: the pressure plate through which the screw is threaded has a total of 3 "flats" around the perimeter. You can rotate the plate around to an unbroken flat, drill and tap it for the screw, and you're good to go. I can't see reverse staying in adjustment without that locking screw.

[Al Schober]

The hex screw going through the cast ear is the adjustment for fwd, NOT reverse. The reverse adjustment is the big hex nut that tightens (and loosens) the band that goes around the whole thing. There are plenty of pictures in the archives that are labeled to show what does what.

[msmith10]

Thanks for correcting me, Al. It is the forward adjuster. I haven't been in my reversing gear for a while, but I remember that locking screw and the numerous warnings from Professor Moyer about cracking that casting.

[edwardc]

So.....
While replacing the hex head pin, apparently I applied too much force and the casting that forms the screw threads snapped. Didn't feel like much pressure so perhaps it was cracked but in any event, the spoked ring now has no way to be held in place...

When tightening the screw, you must be careful to make sure the screw is going into one of the slots in the adjusting ring. This allows the screw to tighten against the tab without putting any shearing force on the tab. If the screw hits one of the raised portions instead, it will take very little torque to shear off the tab.