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I installed a PSS shaft seal during the last tropical storm haulout. What's the scoop on running the engine on the hard to winterize it with a PSS shaft seal? I can't think of a way to hydrate the PSS shaft seal on the hard with cooling water as it would when the boat was in the sea, and the engine won't stay in neutral for long if I'm not holding the shifter in the right place.
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1974 C&C 27 -
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I guess you could loosen the stainless steel ring and remove the tension on the carbon bushing. That would take care of the PSS shaft seal but your cutlass bearing will be running dry. I would (if I were you) make sure the transmission was in neutral.
MikeLast edited by MikeB.330; 09-08-2009, 07:12 AM.Comment
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and tie the prop off, 1st time I ran mine in neutral on the hard (just after replacing the cutlass bearing) I found out the hard way that the prop will turn anyway unless tied off.
Thus, another cutlass bearing installed.....................Comment
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+1 what Joe said.
I tie the prop off...in my case, I just tied it to the strut to insure it didn't actually move and burn up my 30-yr old (and still OK!) cutlass bearing.
I thought about lashing a hose to the nearby jackstand, etc.. or something and aim it at the strut, but decided against it..I can really see no good reason to let the prop spin on dry land.-Shawn
"Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
"Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
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We have good access to the prop shaft and have marked it so we know when the prop is straight up-and-down, and so hidden behind the keel. We also have a dedicated wooden clamp to keep it there when we sail. That is what we use to keep the prop from turning when running the engine out of the water.
Bill and Jeanne
T-34C #453
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