How is your access to the gear assembly? How much room do you have to press out and press on the coupling? Getting the coupling off is easy... getting it back on can be an adventure but I made a press tool pretty easily that let me do it in limited space. Check out my thread on installing a new reversing gear assembly to see the steps required. The shaft stays in the boat the entire time so no worries about being in the water. The only issue is access but that is more of a do i need to remove the engine issue...
That helps alot. Judging from the pic in your post, I have about the same amount of clearance after the shaft is disconnected. Access on the other hand is gonna be a B____! I got myself down there to repack the stuffing box, so I should be able to do this.
I did my coupling on the hard, but it would have been no harder on the water.
The biggest issue I had was having the correct tools and supplies. Just like John I needed to make a tool to reinstall the coupling. I bought the Moyer tool and it was a beautiful piece of work, but it was tool big for the space I had available I also needed longer bolts to remove the coupling. Replacing the seal was a piece of cake, once the housing was removed.
The one suggestion I have is to have lots of absorbent material ready, I had lots of oil drip from my reversing gear during this process.
Hi Rick,
Down the stb lazarette and go to it. You and I have more room than most. I put my legs back along toward the stern and can get right in over it. Rig yourself a good light and your life just got that much easier as well. It's one thing to be snaking in under the cockpit and trying to work...light makes a big difference.
Good luck.
Mo
"Odyssey"
1976 C&C 30 MKI
The pessimist complains about the wind.
The optimist expects it to change.
The realist adjusts the sails.
...Sir William Arthur Ward.
Is there a gasket behind the rear cover plate? Don't see one in the catalog. Mo, I do prefer working in the starboard lazarette as opposed to the port...I'm left handed.
rick..I had trouble getting my tail shaft nut loose. I had a 4' pipe on it and couldn't budge it, but an air powered impact gun knocked it loose in seconds. It took longer to run the extension cord & wait for the air compressor to build pressure. I wasted DAYS messing around with a breaker bar and pipes.
Be sure to clamp the shaft so it won't slide out of the boat. A couple of press and pull tools will help. My shaft was a pain to separate from the coupler.
One question..are you confident it is the seal leaking? With the aft tilt the A4 has any oil drip will work its way back and appear to come from the rear main seal.
I was on the hard for my work, and I did the seal while I had the shaft out from a mis-alignment that wore a hole in the shaft log.
Pretty sure Shawn. I can watch it pour out whilst steaming along. We're talking major leak, not just an annoying drip. Should I order the replacement sleeve as a contingency in case the coupling hub is scored? I believe the shaft coupling will keep the shaft from sliding out. I know what you mean about that shaft coupling, though, I had to cut my old one off last year when I replaced my broken strut. The new one was just as much of a bear to get back on the shaft!
OK Rick..mine was an annoying drip, but since I was 85% of the way there with removing the shaft from the boat, I did the seal too.
THe shaft should not be a bear, but it should be a snug press fit. Of course, getting it 'fit & faced' would require removing all the parts from the boat.
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
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