replacing generator with an alternator

[2dogsnight]

Joe, I will have all that in few hours !

[joe_db]

Joe, I will have all that in few hours !

I was ignoring my own advice - never go repairing before going measuring or you fix stuff that ain't broke

[joe_db]

https://dynamoregulators.com/documents/autolite-data.pdf

FYI

[Al Schober]

As for keeping it 'original', you're already a long way from there! That engine and generator were originally 6V. The A4 went to 12V in 1963.

[2dogsnight]

Actually we should learn what we are dealing with:
Can you provide:
1. Battery voltage at rest.
2. Battery voltage right after starting the engine.
3. Battery voltage 10 minutes after starting the engine.
4. Battery voltage with all lights on.

12.2 V
12.2 V
12.8 V
12.7 V

[2dogsnight]

As for keeping it 'original', you're already a long way from there! That engine and generator were originally 6V. The A4 went to 12V in 1963.

Everything looks original......yes, 12V and electronic ignition.

[ndutton]

Depending on your goals there may be a strong case for staying with the generator. If you consider your launch a classic showpiece and want to keep it as era-correct as possible, I vote for the gen.

Here's my experience:
Last year I treated myself to a classic muscle car, a future retirement gift to myself. I frequent casual cruise-in car shows and receive favorable reviews but a comment that's repeated at nearly every show is, "WOW, is that an original air conditioning compressor? That's COOL!" There are a thousand other things they could notice but the vintage, horse power robbing Harrison AC compressor gets a lot of attention.

[2dogsnight]

I just want to make it work

[ndutton]

I just want to make it work

In that case scrap the nostalgia and get an alternator. To keep the installation as simple as possible I recommend a Delco 10Si single wire, self excite. Put it on the engine, connect one battery cable to the output and you're done with it.

Well, almost done with it. Check the output voltage. These days higher outputs in the range of 14.7 to near 15 volts are increasingly popular but can wreak havoc with our ignition systems. The 10Si has an internal fixed point regulator that can be changed to something a little tamer, like around 14.2V. Changing the regulator is not difficult in experienced hands. Inexperienced hands however . . . .

Pick your battles

[2dogsnight]

Checked brushes pushing them with a stick to make sure that they are touching, but no change.
Looking at 1 wire alternators. There is one with tach wire for Mericruiser that came up in one wire search. $86 same as 1 wire alternators. Would like to have a marine one.

[joe_db]

12.2 V
12.2 V
12.8 V
12.7 V

Your battery is about 1/4 charged, a full battery would be 12.6 at rest.
Your generator is working, the issue seems to be the voltage is too low. You want to see about 1 more volt, say 13.8 to 14.4 or so.

My first guess is the voltage regulator needs adjustment. Those old regulators can be adjusted and also you can check the relay contacts in there and see if they need cleaning.

[joe_db]

In that case scrap the nostalgia and get an alternator. To keep the installation as simple as possible I recommend a Delco 10Si single wire, self excite. Put it on the engine, connect one battery cable to the output and you're done with it.

Well, almost done with it. Check the output voltage. These days higher outputs in the range of 14.7 to near 15 volts are increasingly popular but can wreak havoc with our ignition systems. The 10Si has an internal fixed point regulator that can be changed to something a little tamer, like around 14.2V. Changing the regulator is not difficult in experienced hands. Inexperienced hands however . . . .

Pick your battles

Can that be done? The mounts on that cylinder head look different than a modern one.

[joe_db]

From: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/83.cfm

Because they are mechanical, voltage regulators are easy to troubleshoot. If you study the function of each of the three parts and how they interrelate, it becomes obvious which part is malfunctioning, depending upon symptoms. That means anyone who understands how everything works can easily troubleshoot problems. That's the good news.

The bad news is that the point gaps and spring pressures determine the voltage/current limits and they are exceedingly hard to adjust. Sometimes it can be done on the car using a voltmeter, but generally it is best to replace the entire regulator assembly when a certain part of it fails. Factory assembly of regulators required relatively sophisticated measurement instruments. Adjusting them by "feel" is a matter of luck, and frequently can result in damage.

Overall, the good news is that regulators are inexpensive and relatively easy to find. Replacement is always a good idea.


>>>
I am not sure they are STILL easy to find. There seems to be a point gap you can *slowly* adjust for the voltage regulation, I would assume less gap = more voltage.
It did occur to me none of that old stuff looks remotely like it is ignition-protected

[2dogsnight]

Good info Joe, thank you.
Here is regulator on my generator. I did open it and cleaned points. They were pretty clean. I don't see any way to adjust it......?

[joe_db]

There is a way in there somewhere.
The regulator has a part number too, if you can find it you can get another one or look up the adjustment procedures.
* NOS (new old stock) regulators seem to be about $40 and I bet NAPA has a new equivalent too.

Another thing to try is full-fielding the generator to make sure it can put out more than 12.8 volts, thus proving the regulator is the issue.