Restarting under sail vs motoring

[toddster]

Mo, I don't think I can add much clarity with more pics. It's an Ericson 29. That PVC pipe heads straight from the top of the stand pipe toward the stern, through the sail locker. It's only held on by one (completely loose) pipe clamp. Then it attaches to the second piece of rubber hose, which does an S curve over the top of the fuel tank and attaches the the through-hull. There's a rats next of 12V wires and other hoses taped to it. All that stuff has to go before I worry about non-critical items.

I did find this other thread with the same boat, same standpipe. I can only see rubber hose in that pic: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5513

OK, Well, I found some hose on-line. At $10 a foot, I can see why the PO stuck a piece of PVC in there. It's just one of the many things on the boat that don't quite fit. Now that I think about it, I see that the PVC pipe is a constriction, relative to the ID of the hose per design. I wonder if that could cause problems...

[ndutton]

It's always easy spending other people's money.

Most importantly, the PVC pipe must be replaced for your own safety and that of your guests/crew. It is neither ABYC or USCG compliant. To do it right, exhaust rated hose is the way to go.

Then there's the potential issue of the standpipe. I say potential because it may be functioning properly and solid as a rock but the heavily rusted appearance is a fright. Unfortunately it can't be pressure tested for internal breaches so either you wait for engine related symptoms of a standpipe failure or replace it on principle. It's a different configuration from anything I've ever seen so I expect you're looking at having a stainless shop dissect your pipe and copy it. One thing's for sure: if not done now, it will be an issue later.

Was any of this mentioned on your pre-purchase survey? Seeing the handiwork of the previous owner makes me wonder what other surprises are in your future.

[Dave Neptune]

Exhaust cobble

toddster, it is really not that big of a job to re-run the exhaust. That PVC should be replaced and you can fabricate "corners" out of "black pipe" and route it the way you wish to keep the locker clear. If it has been a long time since a replacement has been done it's probably time to start at the manifold as the water injection point is probably about plugged by now. I have an E-35 with the engine in the middle and I put in 2 extra corners that the factory did not and my exhaust is completely out of the way in any locker through which it passes. The piece of mind, safety, space and ease of locker usage more than offset the efforts.

Dave Neptune

[ArtJ]

Moyer sellls a Standpipe made of stainless steel. Standpipes are great and
trouble free you can never have exhaust water backing up when cranking.

[sleonhard]

It's not as bad as you think!!

Here is a few pics of my old /new boat work over
dont worry these guy's will get your thru it

I used galvanised threaded pipe which was readily available
Dromo ( a guy I met thru this site) and I went to Lowes and built this mechano
cost about 70 you have to vent well at first use (fumes from metal)
but now it is working great and I have had no further concerns
of water backing in but I am careful not to over crank

No comment on the hard start still learning

[Mo]

Here's what I have done. Neil tuned me into raising the last loop up higher so I did and it still batches great....so that's the way it will stay. I'll get her out for a sail in 20+kts and see how it hold up

PS: I tried to make the pic larger so it would be easy to read but alas it's beyond my computer / paint skills.

[Kelly]

hot section support

Sleonhard-

One thing your photos make me think about is the weight of the galvanized pipe on your manifold exit flange.

Do you think some sort of support, perhaps hanging from above in the highest section, would benefit the manifold and take some of the leveraging forces off the flange?

Food for thought.

[ILikeRust]

PS: I tried to make the pic larger so it would be easy to read but alas it's beyond my computer / paint skills.

Looks like you did just fine depicting yourself with drink in hand, though!!

[sleonhard]

Kelly I have a bracket made up but I want to heat wrap first
I seem to bounce from one project to another and back again

[Kelly]

I hear you about "bouncing"...

Just glad to hear you've already thought it all out.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Just glad to hear you've already thought it all out.

Planning without action is a day dream.
Action without planning is a nightmare.

TRUE GRIT

[toddster]

The boat is still sitting in the yard after three months.
I've been working on the bottom and the wiring. But I'm starting to think about the engine again. I can't do everything at this haul-out but I'm trying to hit things that I can't do afloat and/or can't use the boat without. And projects sure are easier with the boat sitting right here at the shop, instead of a hundred miles away from the toolbox.

I have located another possible cause of the original problem: The fuel hose, as per standard PO procedure was just strung loose under the liner. The batteries were also rattling around loose (I need to fabricate and tab in a battery box.) One of them was sitting on the fuel hose and pinched it pretty badly.

So, today's dumb question. Any thoughts on test-running the engine here in the yard? (For purposes of flushing the cooling system, changing the oil, etc.) Without thinking too carefully about it, I'm assuming that just hooking up a garden hose to the intake and forcing pressurized water through the engine or the FWC would be a bad thing. Although what would it really do, other than bending the rubber impeller blades back, if the pressure were great enough?

I thought of letting the cooling system draw from a bucket of overflowing water, fed from a garden hose. I suppose I'd have to arrange this to be at the normal water line, which is currently about 7 or 8 feet off the ground... Just thought I'd run it by here, while it's still a "thought-fiasco" before making it a physical one.

[jhwelch]

Put your bucket in the cockpit and use the garden hose to keep it filled up. Any overflow will thus run down the cockpit drains.

My boat has T fitting so I can valve off the seawater intake and valve open a hose I have coiled up that will reach into the cockpit and the bucket.

Forcing water into your engine will cause it to back up into the cylinders once you have
(quickly) filled your water lift muffler.

-Jonathan

[toddster]

OK, thnx for the quick reply. But the earlier part of this thread establishes that I have a standpipe rather than a water lift. Possibly not an issue?

[JOHN COOKSON]

Put your bucket in the cockpit and use the garden hose to keep it filled up. Any overflow will thus run down the cockpit drains.
-Jonathan

Also if you get the bucket higher than the engine you will get a siphon going and the water pump will have no problem drawing the water to it.

TRUE GRIT