magnaflux

[splashlog]

I will have two, possibly three blocks, heads and manifolds that will be ready for rebuild(s).
What makes the most sense in terms of hot tank, magnaflux, measure spec..
Hot tank everything then measure then magnaflux vise vise versa versa..?
I really only want to do the minimum for cost reasons and only want to end up with one "best of the best" engine for a rebuild. One block is a '72 and one is a '74...The third is the early model that's getting pulled which I don't think I will take to a shop.

I would imagine a shop can measure the bores, pistons and rings without doing a hot tank first to determine if it's worth it..?

Can you magnaflux before hot tank?

Anyone in the Toronto-GTA (Canada) area have a shop to recommend?

[Al Schober]

I'll try to help..
If the head is still installed, give the water jacket and head a pressure test. You're looking for cracks and cylinder porosity. Do these yourself - low cost.
If the head is off, do a good visual looking for cracks. A recent thread (Free A4) has photos of the sort of stuff to look for. That engine had a head with bad cracks plus a crack at the bottom of the water jacket, visible with the oil pan removed. Another area to examine closely is the block around the valve seats. Once you think the block is good, then consider the fancy tests.
I'd do the magnaflux first. No sense of doing the hot tank first as the hot tank requires complete disassembly of the block including removal of the cam bearings.
Once you determine the block isn't dead (cracked), then you can do measurements to determine how healthy it is.
As for finding a shop, ask the shop that you trust with your car who does their cylinder head work. Then go talk with them. Explain what you've got and what you expect from them. They'll likely be decent and reasonable people that you can work with. If not, keep shopping...
Hope this helps.

[splashlog]

Perfect, that was the advise I was seeking. Thanks!
Each engine is at various stages of, well, apart, so pressure tests are off the table. What you say makes perfect sense. I really just need to find a decent shop and have a chat about how to move forward from here.

[lat 64]

The bores and crank can be miked (measured) before cleaning.
But, The oil and gunk on an engine can really interfere with a dry magnafux. The powder just just sticks to the oil and won't flow to any potential cracks. Magnufluxing a block should be done on it as dry as possible so a tanking is recommended before magnafux.

On the other hand, "tanking" in a caustic solution will start to eat the cam bearings so they probably will have to be replaced if it gets cleaned by caustic.

Be prepared to go all-in on the rebuild if tanked in caustic soda.

Kinda what Al said but in a little bit different order is my recommendation.
R.

[lat 64]

Just a thought; caustic solution is very old school. There is some engine cleaning nowadays that uses solvent.
If cam bearings are not worn, then they might be saved that way.

Cheers,
R.