MM Ultimate Help

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  • policecentral
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2007
    • 56

    MM Ultimate Help

    Thanks to Don and Ken at MM for ultimate helpfulness during repower of my Ranger 30, Northern Light owned since 1982. Original engine lost compression in two cylinders, so I bought an older, freshwater engine on eBay. Had to take reduction gear from original and move to replacement engine that involved moving the transmission as well. Both Don and Ken could not have been more helpful and encouraging -- I am only sorry that I did not have more to buy from them except gaskets. Will rebuild original engine and buy some more stuff from them.

    While replacement engine was out, cleaned and painted it. Used Rustoleum primer and several coats of paint giving time to dry between coats. I think that too often engines have been painted too thin not providing for good paint buildup.

    Ken reminded me to drill out engine mount holes because they are smaller on early style engines. I did this easily by starting with drill bit slightly larger than 3/8" and increasing one size at at time to 5/8" -- was really easy.

    Don really encouraged me to keep the replacement engine "fresh water" with his kit, but felt I could not quite afford. Put in a flushing T ($2 at auto store) in intake line, so I can start engine, hook a hose to it, turn on the freshwater and shut off the seacock so engine is flushed. I hope that Don thinks that my poor man solution is OK.

    Engine dropped in OK, and I worked on alignment which is no fun. Comment: engine mounts come with a thick nut and a thin nut. Be SURE to put the thin nut as the LOWER nut -- I did not on one mount and I cannot quite lower the engine quite enough on that mount because the nut is a skosh too thick. But will have to do for now.

    Another comment -- both of the water brass T's on the manifold were pretty carboned over. I took a screwdriver and cleaned out the crud -- something to keep in mind if you are having cooling problems.

    One other comment about the original engine. When running, it developed a slight knocking noise when under load. I feared the worst, but it turned out to be a nut on the manifold that was not torqued down and it would "chiff" a little bit that sounded like a knock. Tightened down and "knocking" sound went completely away.

    Sorry for the long post, if you are ever in Savannah and need a place to tie up, give Northern Light a call on Channel 16. I have private dock space and cold beer.

    Thanks to you all for your contributions! And especial thanks to MM!!

    Jim
  • jhwelch
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 481

    #2
    To align my engine I have to raise it up and add shims under the
    flange(s) that need adjustment.

    To get a more solid connection on the engine mount you mis-nutted
    try going to a metal shop and buying a piece of brass or stainless.
    You won't need much depending on what thickness you need to
    build it up to. You might ask them to notch out the piece(s) to
    make it into two "forks" that will slide past the bolt.

    Is your dock on the river or ICW? I may be passing by there this fall.

    -jonathan

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