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  • GregH
    Afourian MVP
    • Jun 2015
    • 598

    Starting Video

    Before purchasing my boat (and since) I've never watched a "good" video (or live) of someone cold starting their well running engine (choke out, taking a few cranks, RPMs, etc). Only know what people have written here on how it should start cold, I have no first hand knowledge as I am still tweaking my engine and at this point is still runs too rich and starts too easily.

    If anyone has a link to a video or could make one, then that would give me a great reference point to work towards I think. Otherwise what I believe it should start like and what is good enough will be miles apart!

    Hope this made sense
    Greg
    1975 Alberg 30
    sigpic
  • joe_db
    Afourian MVP
    • May 2009
    • 4527

    #2
    Originally posted by GregH View Post
    Before purchasing my boat (and since) I've never watched a "good" video (or live) of someone cold starting their well running engine (choke out, taking a few cranks, RPMs, etc). Only know what people have written here on how it should start cold, I have no first hand knowledge as I am still tweaking my engine and at this point is still runs too rich and starts too easily.

    If anyone has a link to a video or could make one, then that would give me a great reference point to work towards I think. Otherwise what I believe it should start like and what is good enough will be miles apart!

    Hope this made sense
    I'll shoot one today if I have time. The engine has been sitting since Sunday.
    Joe Della Barba
    Coquina
    C&C 35 MK I
    Maryland USA

    Comment

    • joe_db
      Afourian MVP
      • May 2009
      • 4527

      #3
      Here you go:


      Here is stopping it with by letting the fuel run out:
      Joe Della Barba
      Coquina
      C&C 35 MK I
      Maryland USA

      Comment

      • Dave Neptune
        Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
        • Jan 2007
        • 5050

        #4
        About the best way to "see" how the engine is running is to look at the plugs. What you look at is the ceramic around the electrode. If it is black or dark in color it is running to rich. A good running color is a light tan and best is almost a creamy grey color.

        The idle screw will only adjust the idle or very low RPM's the higher RPM's is best adjusted with "float level" as it will influence the entire RPM and load range or changing the main jet to a smaller size. I have worked on many A-4 carbs and have a lot of carburetor experience. I have found the jet to be very close albeit slightly large and to have excellent "range" in the A-4. Thus the float level being raised or lowered has a constant change of mix across the RPM range. Most all of the carb's I have set up by lowering the float about 1/16" from stock which yields a nice creamy tan plug at all RPM's. Also it made cold starting take a bit longer and warm starts to require the choke too, once restarted she ran like a top.

        I have found the "adjustable jet" to work OK but only at the RPM's it has been adjusted for because the carb on the A-4 is just plain ole to big, It is rated for engines up to 80 HP.

        The stock carb is quite well balanced which is why the float level works well for all loads an a properly tuned engine. Almost every carb I rebuilt for an A-4 had the float level set either higher than the stock (to rich) setting or was not set to close the seat when parallel with the body of the carb. That setting is very important in any carb!

        My personal carb was messaged a bit more however that was because I had the tools and equipment as well as I enjoy tinkering.

        Dave Neptune

        Comment

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