Yet another Used A4 Newbie

[ndutton]

200 degrees is too hot. The sploosh-sploosh out the transom indicates a functioning raw water circuit so we're left with the coolant circuit.

• Is the coolant circulating, pump functioning or obstruction somewhere?
• Any possibility of air traps in the coolant circuit? Any way to burp them out?
• Maybe remove the thermostat for the time being and do a stovetop test.

[jhwelch]

With my FWC system it takes me many iterations of running the motor for a short time and then adding coolant near the high point of the thermostat (where I have installed a T and a valve). It takes a while for air bubbles to work their way up.

I'm a bit curious how other FWC systems deal with getting air bubbles out of the high point near the thermostat.

-Jonathan

[ndutton]

The problem you describe is exactly why it's important to have the fill cap at the high point of the FWC system and if at all possible, run all hoses in an uphill fashion to it so air will automatically purge itself. I installed a radiator style drain valve in my system where there was an anticipated air trap to burp the air. Next time I drain the system I'll probably install a second valve in the thermostat housing.

A great side benefit of the electric FWC system is the ability to operate the electric pump and circulate coolant without running the engine. This makes purging the air very easy.

[Bold Rascal]

Not quite there yet

Thanks for the suggestions.

My HE is the highest part of the cooling system. The hoses are in good condition. I did remove, rod-out and clean the HE (new zinc) as part of the re-installation process. The thermostat (like so many other engine periferals) looked like new so I didn't bother to test it.

My whole approach to this A4 resurection project has been doing only whatever was necesarry just to see if the engine could even be made to run at all. Now that I know she does, we can set about getting the remaining systems checked out and corrected.

My thinking is to remove the thermostat and check for coolant flow at the HE. If there's no flow then I may have my supply and return hoses swapped? or, at worst I have a bad water pump/impellor? I'll be orderring a new impellor regardless.

I'ts just a relief knowing the engine does run. There's so much more to do:

Replace a hodge-podge engine wiring system.
New exhaust heat section (what is and where can I get the fabric wrap?)
Presurrized water system.
Etc, etc....

I still have to get in the water and remove my seal around the propellor outshaft before attempting to use the motor as propulsion. 58 degrees already...

Thanks all for your helpful advice.