Rebuild or no?

[Dave Neptune]

Perhaps they were pushed up by the attempt to free it with the "allen wrench". There's really no other way I can imagine.

Dave Neptune

[Brimikeg]

Perhaps they were pushed up by the attempt to free it with the "allen wrench". There's really no other way I can imagine.

Dave Neptune

I suppose that may be a possibility, however I don't think so. If I remember correctly the gap was already existing before I tried to move the valve. That being said I got a little excited when I could see the actual stuck valve (as before it was just a suspicion) and so I got right into trying to free it up. So I suppose it's possible in my haste to try and free the valve I pushed it further up but I am really unsure to be honest, in most cases the simplest solution is the cause, especially if there is not really another way for it to happen.

It's now been soaking in penatrating oil for about a week, I'll be back at the boat on Saturday morning so I'll try to free up the valve from the valve cover side. The head gaskets I ordered came in already so if it comes to it I'll do that this weekend as well. If a valve is this stuck, is it advisable to change it. I have some spare valves lying around somewhere for the engine, but it's a really tight space to try and remove the spring and such, but I can do it if it's in the best interest of the engine. And if I have the head off I can do it then rather than install the head and get the valve stuck again...

[Surcouf]

I would personaly try everything possible from the valve cover before trying to remove the head. Several guys in this forum remove head in 15 minutes... for me it is many hours. Removing the head could open many more cans of worms: damaged or leaking studs, having to re-thread etc. So unless there is a suspision of damaged head gaskets, I would really advise to keep trying to free those valves, as much as your agenda, boat location vs home, boat ambient temperature , ability to drink beer in the boat etc... allow for.

So rotating the valves from the valve cover, spray very generously while cranking directly through admission after removing carburetor / wait / spray more, spray even more / push valve up / wait / spray (WD40, Kroll Oil whatever works) patience is key.

Once you get to free them, warming nicely the engine, and running it at reasonnably high rpm could/might break loose whatever corrosion / gunk accumulated on the valve stems, getting your compression back.

After that, removing head and valves is a very gratifying job for sure
Good luck

[Brimikeg]

I got it moving!
I am able to move the valve but I have to use an Alan wrench to bush it down from the spark plug hole then the tappet to push it back up. I worked some penatrating oil into the valve to work it around a bit. Should I just continue this process of working penatrating oil in or is there a better way to get it moving on its own?

[Dave Neptune]

Once the valves are moving even if not all the way, they are moving. Keep the spray into the cylinders going and spin on the starter. If the motion increases a bit just go ahead and start it. At engine speed of hi idle should shake the valve completely loose in a few minutes.

Dave Neptune

[Brimikeg]

Ok, I got it to a point where it was moving and started the engine. Is seems to be moving freely now but I don't think it's closing all the way. I can feel it raised in the down position and I'm still getting no compression. Could it just be carbon buildup that needs to be broken loose by running?