Likely a basic question but.....

[CnC for me]

Newbie to A4 here, appreciate all the insights.

After digging through all the diagrams, manuals (Original, Westerbeke & Moyer) I am still a bit unclear on a drain plug location........

Winterization - COOLING SYSTEM
Step 2: Remove the two drain plugs in the side of the block behind the starter and alternator, and the single plug in the rear of the exhaust/intake manifold.

- Plug on Exhaust manifold - Got it,
- Aft drain plug behind starter/alternator - Got it (simple as drain tube attached),

- Second plug behind starter/alternator - ummmm where exactly ?
I see a larger (1/2 in) brass plug just aft of the flywheel cover inboard of the starter which looks like the same height as the aft drain plug but seems larger than expected...... just visible in attached photo.



I suspect that's it but without clear guidance the newbie was hesitant to start removing block plug bolts...

Insights ?
Instructional diagram perhaps?

And considering my boat is 3 hrs away....the associated question of if I drained the system by the other two plugs and opening the water pump/impeller cover am I at low/medium/high risk of freeze damage if it did freeze hard before I got back to her ?

I suspect I can take a deep breath till I get back up there in a few weeks, because for good or bad, Marina ethic here is to drain without antifreeze application. Boat will spend the winter in the slip where the fresh water never freezes with a small heater running on board. PO never even drained engine, just ran the heater which I am uncomfortable with as shore power can be sketchy in the winter.

Call me overly cautious but the A4 is a recent Moyer rebuild so I don't want to mess it up.


Thanks for the thoughts, CnC for me

[zellerj]

How I winterize my raw water cooled atomic 4:

1) un screw the cap at the end of the nipple just behind the alternator. I hook up a piece of tubing to the nipple and blow into it to periodically until I can hear the gurgling and can be assured that all the water is out of the block
2) put the end cap back on the nipple
3) pull off the hose from the through hull
4) attach a longer plastic tube into the water inlet hose that I just removed from the through hull. I use electric tape around the plastic tube so there is a tight fit into the water inlet hose and a clamp may be useful. If there is an air leak the pump will not suck out the antifreeze
5) place the plastic tubing into a gallon of pink antifreeze
6) start the engine and suck up the gallon of antifreeze
7) just before the gallon jug is sucked dry, I pour Marvel Mystery Oil into the carb so it stalls the engine to fog the cylinders to prevent corrosion
8) pour a ounce or so of Marvel Mystery Oil into each spark plug hole, being sure not to mix up the plug wires.
9) wipe down the engine with an oily rag

This assures water is out of the block and the antifreeze pushes water out of the water lift muffler.

You may choose to do it differently, but this is how I do it.

[msmith10]

The "just visible in attached photo" plug is the one you're looking for. Of course, be careful removing the cap from that long nipple under the distributor- it's easy to snap that nipple off at the block. After doing so I was lucky to be able to remove the stub with an extractor, and I removed the nipple and put a plug in the hole.

[joe_db]

I never do anything with drain plugs, I just run antifreeze through the engine.

[edwardc]

I never do anything with drain plugs, I just run antifreeze through the engine.

When I was raw-water cooled, I also never drained first. I would, however, remove the thermostat and clamp-off the bypass hose in order to insure that all flow went through the block. Then just run long enough (or use a drill pump) to push a few gallons of anti-freeze through the engine.

For reference, we're in the upper Chesapeake, and keep her in the water year-round. The brackish water rarely gets more than skin ice on it.

[Sam]

As mentioned that is the block plug your looking for. Fyi, here in Chicago where temps sometimes on the hard get to -15F my SOP for the last 45yrs was drain the block. note, water pump should have a drain plug if you don't want to take cover/gasket off.

[scratchee]

Sorry if I missed it, but are you raw water cooled, or do you have a heat exchanger? If you have a heat exchanger you don't need to drain anything, because the engine cooling passages are filled with antifreeze. Just draw some RV (non-toxic) antifreeze into the water intake by running the engine for a few seconds.

[sastanley]

scratchee has an excellent comment. If the boat is "raw water cooled", is that from the lake? If the engine has antifreeze in it (Fresh Water Cooled), than no need to drain the block, but you should still winterize the raw/lake water side per scratchee's suggestions .

If current guidance from the other tenants is to drain an engine with lake water in the block...here is a poorly updated pic of your pic with the two drain areas of the block. When I was a kid when my parents owned an A4, all my Dad did was drain out of the aft drain behind the alternator. There are better ways now, but anything is better than letting water freeze in the engine block.

edit - The one I have labeled as the forward block drain I think is the second plug you are asking about. half visible.

Oh, and welcome...we are always happy to help..just keep feeding data of your situation and pictures always help, and we can assist with most conditions!

Your 'new to you' motor seems to be in generally great visual condition!!!