General Checklist

[ric sheridan]

Aloha All, I am new here due just having gotten a Cal2-27 gifted to me. I haven't even seen the boat yet but I have been assured it is in fine shape. It's previous owner was the Commanding General at Kaneohe Marine Corps base. Anyway the engine was rebuilt by a helicopter mechanic and has been bored out I am told.
My problem is is that the boat has sat for awhile. Maybe two years without turning over the engine. I do not know if the engine has ben stored properly or not. I have read of the different way of keeping antifreeze in the head and such.
So if anybody could send me a consolidated checklist or send me a link to one of what I need to go through to bring it up to speed it would be good. I don't want to go chasing down the different items needing attention and then have one be missed and come back and bite me. Then all the old timers would say yeah everybody knows about that one.

[roadnsky]

My problem is is that the boat has sat for awhile. Maybe two years without turning over the engine...
So if anybody could send me a consolidated checklist or send me a link to one of what I need to go through to bring it up to speed it would be good. I don't want to go chasing down the different items needing attention and then have one be missed and come back and bite me. Then all the old timers would say yeah everybody knows about that one.

Aloha Ric-
Congrats on the new vessel!
(and Thank You for your service)

Don addressed this very topic in the FAQ Section...

"Two years is not all that long for an Atomic 4 to be idle. Nonetheless, here are a few steps to help get it off to a good start:

1) Check for good quality oil (30 weight, or 10-30) up to the full mark on the dipstick.

2) Put several squirts of Marvel Mystery Oil in each spark plug hole (aiming the spout of the can away from the manifold side of the engine) so that most of the oil will reach the cylinder bores. Then rotate the engine on the starter while holding your thumb over each spark plug hole. There should be enough compression produced at each cylinder to make it virtually impossible to hold your thumb over any of the spark plug holes.

3) Remove the main passage plug from the bottom of the carburetor and operate the fuel pump to move some fuel through the entire fuel system, and catch it in a jar below the carburetor. A couple pints should be enough to insure that the fuel is flowing perfectly clean. Then reinstall the plug and operate the fuel pump again until the carburetor is charged with fuel.

4) Remove the distributor cap and clean off the contact surfaces of the points.

5) Turn the engine over until the points are closed (It will be easier to rotate the engine if the spark plugs are removed). Then turn the ignition switch “ON”; while holding the secondary coil lead approximately 1/4″ from the head, flick the points open and closed. Each time the points are opened, there should be a good secondary spark observed between the coil lead and the head.

Assuming that these checks all went without incident, you have confirmed that you have adequate compression, fuel to (and through) the carburetor, a good secondary discharge available and ready for delivery to each cylinder, and your engine should be ready to start.

In the event that you are relatively new to the Atomic 4, Here are a few tips on starting technique:

1) “Pumping the throttle” is totally ineffective in starting the Atomic 4. Since there is no accelerator pump within the carburetor, pumping the throttle has absolutely no effect on anything in terms of supplying more or less fuel to the engine.

2) If your engine tries to start, but falters and stops as soon as you stop cranking on the starter, it is likely simply not getting enough fuel to work itself out of the idle range and into the lower range of the main discharge nozzle of the carburetor (which occurs around 1000 RPM). After an engine is warmed up, it will tend to start OK in idle, but cold engines seldom will start and run within the idle range. They need to start and warm up in the lower range of the main discharge nozzle before they can be brought back to idle.

3) The best setting for the throttle during starting is solidly off of the idle stop, so as to uncover both idle ports and get you into the “off idle” range of operation. It’s somewhat better to err on the high side in terms of throttle setting. If your engine ends up racing the instant that it starts, you can back off a little on the throttle setting during future starts.

As soon as the engine starts, check for oil pressure leveling out at 40 psi or above (engine still cold), and for a good flow of water out of the exhaust. In a normal cooling system, there should be enough water flowing through the engine so that it builds up a bit of head as the exhaust pressure builds up enough to blow the water out of the back of the boat. This creates a “batching” effect at idle, as water moves through the exhaust system"

[ric sheridan]

what about water flow

Now I am reading that I should not have the water flow valve on if the engine doesn't start right away and I should not keep cranking it with it open?

[JOHN COOKSON]

engine so that it builds up a bit of head as the exhaust pressure builds up enough to blow the water out of the back of the boat[/COLOR]. This creates a “batching” effect at idle, as water moves through the exhaust system"[/I]

Yes, keep the cooling water intake valve closed until the engine starts.

Here's the last paragraph of Jerry's post. When you crank the engine the water pump is turning also, pumping water into the exhaust system. When there is no exhaust pressure to blow the water out the back of the boat water can accumulate in the exhaust system and ultimately end up in the cylinders.

ex TRUE GRIT

[ndutton]

For technical accuracy, the raw water intake thru-hull caution applies directly to installations with a waterlift type exhaust system which is only one of four different systems we see on this forum.

To be on the safe side, assume the caution applies to previous owner Rube Goldberg designs. We've seen those too.

[ric sheridan]

Maybe I will do the carburetor part after I do the spark check.

[ric sheridan]

Now the guy gifting me the boat is saying I will wreck the engine if I try to fire it up if I don't do a full flush with the acid and all. Please advise.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Now the guy gifting me the boat is saying I will wreck the engine if I try to fire it up if I don't do a full flush with the acid and all. Please advise.

The owner is telling you he knows there is a problem with the cooling system.
If you don't see water coming out the back of the boat within 15 - 20 seconds after you start the engine shut the engine down. Put up a post and we will help you figure it out.

Free boats are not free.
Be warned: A boat is a hole in the water into which one pours money.
Good luck. Have fun.

ex TRUE GRIT

[ric sheridan]

Now after further interrogation he said it sat for two years he started it and it ran for a bit. The water stopped and he shut it down. Then it sat for two more years. He continued to sail the boat because it was attached to a mooring ball and he had a Whaler to shuttle him back and forth to his boat so he never really needed an engine.
I will try the dental tooth pick test to check how many threads are in the heads where the studs go. Wish me luck.
I ordered a flush kit and an impeller kit. I don't know if I need the puller for this boat (CAL 2-27)or not please advise on that one. I am going to follow the procedure posted elsewhere here when I get it into my slip. I will be back in touch when that starts. I will not even try anything until I get the cooling system rectified first. Thanks you guys.
BTW. I am going to put a 9.9 Evinrude on the back with a mount from catalinayachts (Keeping it it all USA) so I can go ahead with the sea trials that are required from my Harbor Master. If and when the Atomic is reliable enough maybe I will remove it and sell it, IDK yet.