Question about exhaust hot section

[robshepherd]

Once you figure the angle, and the fitting you will need, it is straight forward. At least as easy as it can be in a boat.

Ok. Sounds good. Let me see if I can summarize what I need to do here, and please correct me.

Purchase a new exhaust manifold flange and gasket from Moyer. Carefully disconnect the old flange (easier said than done?). I suspect these old iron parts will be very difficult to remove. Do I remove the standpipe from the boat to gain access to a vice and some elbow room? Disassemble and replace the iron parts.

Regarding getting the angle correct, is it unreasonable to expect that I can replace that metal flex pipe with another piece of metal flex? That seems like an easy solution.

Thank you everyone for your comments so far! -Rob

[romantic comedy]

From the picture, your flange looks good. You can cut thru the flex pipe, to remove it, and get easier access to the flange.

It is a matter of how hard it is to get apart. The bolts that go thru the flange will probably be hard to get out. Heat and penetrant are the way to go there. MMI has stainless studs that I recommend when reassembling.

Try to unscrew the pipe from the flange on the engine. If you cant, then cut the pipe of 2 inches from the flange. Then try it in a vice. Again, heat and penetrant. If that doe not do it, then put a hack saw blade thru the pipe, and saw just until you get to the flange threads. Then collapse it inward.

I have no experience with flexible pipe. I have heard that it does not last very long. Maybe others might have advice there. I think if it was good, we all would be using it.

Removing the stand pipe, will make it so much easier to disassemble. That union will probably come apart easier.

You may have a little wiggle room with the new pipe, and mounting the stand pipe in the same place. When I did mine, it was an inch higher. That is good, is what I am saying.

Also with bending the pipe..I have no experience, so ask around. Also if you need a specific length that is not available, you should be able to get a piece cut and threaded. You just need to know the length.

[robshepherd]

From the picture, your flange looks good. You can cut thru the flex pipe, to remove it, and get easier access to the flange.

Ok! Perfectly understood, and your comments are very helpful. Regarding longevity of the flex pipe, I believe it was installed by the previous owner about 10 years ago. We don't motor a lot, so it's difficult to say how long it might last with more use. We've owned her for 5.

I know of a shop in town that can cut custom lengths and thread them for me. I feel like I've got enough info/understanding to tackle this now. Thank you very much for your time and comments! Much appreciated.

If anybody else chimes in, that's great too! -Rob

[edwardc]

Custom car/Hot-rod shops often have the ability to fabricate exhaust system parts, if you need a truly weird offset bend in that hot section.

<slightly off-topic>
You mentioned that the cooling system had been redone. I noticed a fairly new looking Thermostatic Control Valve (TCV) in one of the photos.

Also, looks like there's a lot of corrosion/weepage around the back plate of the Oberdorfer coolant pump.

[robshepherd]

Water pump

You mentioned that the cooling system had been redone. I noticed a fairly new looking Thermostatic Control Valve (TCV) in one of the photos.

Also, looks like there's a lot of corrosion/weepage around the back plate of the Oberdorfer coolant pump.

Thanks Ed. Yes, the TCV was installed years ago by the PO. I haven't had a need to adjust it. Regarding the pump, you're correct. Would a new gasket likely address this issue?

Thank you! -Rob

[Al Schober]

Rob,
Your exhaust looks very similar to my Tartan 30. (The boats are similar too - yours is a Tartan 30 with 9' beam. One S&S design number before the Tartan with 10' beam).
My exhaust does fine without the flex pipe. My guess is that you only need the flex pipe if your engine is on resilient mount. My engine is mounted hard to the engine bed.
Don't work too hard to get the old hot section apart. Just cut it up - replacement pipe is cheap. The only parts you should work to save are the mixing can and the flange at the manifold. That union is there for assembly - not disassembly! Moyer sells a replacement mixing can - start saving money now then you'll be prepared for when you need a new one.
Best..

Al