No Power and no RPMs

[Marian Claire]

I think PBB is better than WD-40 or even MMO for this application. The head can be removed and reset with the studs in place. What is that white stuff between #1 and #2 ? You’re a-4 looks very serviceable.
Dan S/V Marian Claire

[RobH2]

I asked the same question. The white stuff is apparently some kind of zinc stuff that someone was using for a repair and spilled it on the head.

I'd like to paint my engine as I'm working on it. Is there a brushable paint that will work on them? I don't plan to pull it unless I'm replacing it with a diesel engine. I ultimately want to do some bluewater cruising and the diesel will give me twice the range for the same amount of fuel. But for now since I just bought the boat and cash is tight I'm hoping to get this Atomic running adequately. Good to hear that you think it looks serviceable.

Rob

[sastanley]

Rob,
Thanks for posting some pics.

All things considered, this is not too bad a job from what I understand...I am fortunate that I haven't had to do one on an Atomic 4, but I know the head on my engine has been off at least twice already, prior to my ownership.

Cosmetics are easy...don't stress over that right now. What I did was, as I removed each component for inspection/overhaul, I cleaned it up and painted it. For the block, I spent an afternoon scraping with a stiff brush and wiping with acetone and then a high temp rustoleum style primer prior to painting..then I re-installed the major pieces I had removed prior. Go check out this thread (skip all the garbage and see the important post before & after of Shawn's motor) - I was here 12 months ago.

Be observant when you remove the head, and snap pics...details in the pics may reveal the failure of the head gasket which we can analyze.

Good luck removing nuts & studs and be patient - if you break one, there are repair tips, & of course parts, available here. Mine has a repair stud in it too already.

[RobH2]

Wow, dramatic 'Before and After'... There is hope for me!
I'm hoping someone has had my head off. It would certainly help me to get the studs out if they've been turned before.

I'll be posting about my progress.

[sastanley]

help is here!

Hang in there Rob....there is plenty of help here. I did not buy my boat for the motor either, but I trust it now.

I was exactly where you are in October/November 2008.

[off topic] Is that the Pride of Baltimore in your avatar? Nice pic!!! [/off topic]

[RobH2]

You are good...yes, that is the Pride. I've been a professional commercial photographer for 25 years. I have a lot of sailing photos.

Thanks for the encouragement. It really want to trust the engine. My last boat was a Columbia 8.3 which had it's A-4 replaced by a Honda 9.9 outboard by the time I bought her. That thing was solid as a rock for the 3 years I had it. Nothing is as reliable and maintenance free as a Honda. If I can get the A-4 somewhere close to the trust I had in the Honda I'll be happy. I can't wait to get the water in the marina turned on so I can wash my engine compartment, start painting it and then start painting the A-4. I hope mine looks as good as yours one day soon.

[captain kenny]

Compression

Now it is time to remove the head. It is either the gasket, burnt or poor seating valves or rings. Once the head is off hold your hand over each cylinder and rotate the engine you should be able to feel suction. Visually inspect the valves. Have you purchased the Moyer manual?? You're gonna need it. You are also gonna need to order some parts. Dont give up.

[thatch]

Note to Sastanley

Shawn,
I had heard about your "cleanup" on your motor but hadn't seen the pics until now. All I can say is wow!.
Tom

[RobH2]

Yes, I have the manual. In some respects it's really good but in others it's missing what could be very helpful diagrams or photos. I'm not timid about tinkering on engines so I'm sure it will go fine. Apparently my biggest concern is not snapping off studs.

Let me ask more about the cylinder suction. How strong should it be? Is it either present or not present? In other words, if I detect any suction does that mean my rings are probably functional?

Since my other two good cylinders develop between 90 and 110 readings on the compression gauge is it fair to assume that the other rings are about the same condition? Can the cylinders wear at different rates such that one or two cylinders can loose seal while the other are fine? I would think that the parts would wear at about the same rate and if one set of rings got sloppy then they'd all be getting sloppy.

I am eager to see how the valves seat or see if the seats are carbonized. Is there an easy way to clean the seats without damaging them or doing a full machine shop seat job?

I won't give up. I have too many good people here helping me. This is one of the best forums I'm participated on. It's great to have this resource.

Rob

[Marian Claire]

Just a pic to give you an idea of what you might find. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[RobH2]

Yikes, and to think that you put that all back to gether and it runs...

Don't you love technology?

[David Masury]

You may have hit upon the problem... you stated that you had no valve clearance in cylinders 1 & 2. I can tell you from experience that that will lead to burnt valves very quickly, thus reduced compression etc.

If you have access which by your description you do, pull the head and to a valve job. Generally speaking it takes a good long morning to do it. If the valves aren't burnt, then cleaning and lapping the valves in with a new head gasket will do wonders. GIve yourself a little extra cleanance when you set the valves for the first tens hours or so, then readjust to proper clearances.

David

[RobH2]

Are you implying that a "valve job" is something I can do myself in the water? I know I can get a valve compressor and remover them but I didn't think there was anything I could do with the valves or seats without a machine shop.

What specifically are you suggesting? I'm curious...

[keelcooler]

Can be done in the boat,should not be a problem. Your seats may be OK. The valve however could be burnt. You can have the shop dress or purchase a replacement. You may want to order all new stronger springs. If you need a hand call me, I have the proper valve spring tool. Not all spring compressors will work in that space. I found this out the hard way. I can drop it off or mail.

The 190 head hot spot does not appear to be a concern. You can clean it up when it's off. Looks like a newish manifold and high amp alternator. The valves can be lapped by hand in the boat. Motor looks late mid 70's not late 60's (sheet metal flywheel cover). Will work for gas money and Baltimore crab cakes, John 703 760 8136. Technology is not a word that comes to mind when working on the a4.

[thatch]

valve job tidbits

RobH2
A4 engines have a high nickle content marine block which is much more durable than a normal automotive block. Because of this the valve seats will hold up much better in most cases. After removing the valves and placeing them in a numbered rack I use a Scotchbright pad to clean the seats to determin how much cleanup they will need. The valves can be cleaned for inspection on a wire wheel.
At this point I have to go see the tax lady.(nothing to do with the valve jod)
Tom