Pops out of gear in forward full until warm

[tritonyawl]

My engine pops out of forward gear when going at near full throttle. This doesn't happen when going slow. After running for an hour or so in forward, it will stop popping out of gear. I've had the transmission cover off twice and followed directions in your book to no avail.

It doesn't seem to be a problem with the gear mechanism outside the engine although this never happened until we pulled the engine and had it rebuilt. Your rebuild was great!

Any suggestions?

[Don Moyer]

Tritonyawl,

Everything in your report indicates that your forward adjusting collar needs to be adjusted one notch (no more) tighter - which is in the clockwise direction as you would be looking at the engine from the rear. Hopefully, this will not make it so difficult to get into the forward detent that it will take a weight lifter to get into the forward detent.

Don

[irtrimble]

adjusting collar

I've had an identical problem. Either the engine slips out of gear at higher RPM, or if I adjust the collar one notch "tighter," the action is very stiff and I don't feel like I can get into detente position. There seems to be no intermediate adjustment position possible.
I. R. Trimble

[jhwelch]

I recently had my engine out and replaced the reversing gear and
had to go through the adjustment process.

I'd suggest detaching your shift linkage from the shift lever and
adjusting the reversing gear collar. It may be the case that
there is insufficient travel in your shift cable. That's one of
the problems I had and fortunately there were some turnbuckles
on the cable I could turn to give it a bit more travel in the
forward direction.

-jonathan

[gilbert landin]

adjustment collar revelation

I cant believe it. After several forward adjustment gear attempts, I accidentally finally figured out how to do it correctly. I knew I was missing something when I tried to turn the adjustment collar. I read and reread the overhaul manual thinking "OK what is the purpose of having the trans in neutral and no mention of backing the prop shaft" I was trying to turn the "adjustment collar" which is the piece that has the "claws" and the locking nut. I knew this piece is cast so I had to be careful but firm with my attempts. I was using a socket extension and hammer to try to turn this piece, to do this I had to back the shaft with a pipe wrench. ANyway I broke off one of the cotter pins and while replacing it I accidentall turned the inside of the adjusting collar, the teeth part, and guess what they almost turned by themselves, just like butter!! I have been trying to turn the wrong thing. No wonder people on the forum have so much problems making this adjustment the manual is not clear as to what to turn. I am glad I did not break my claw collar, because of this.

[Don Moyer]

Thanks, Gilbert,

For any others who may have confused the forward adjusting collar with the cast (and rather fragile) pressure plate, the forward adjusting collar is shown in our online catalog with a product number of OREV_05_306, and the pressure plate with a product number of OREV_20_255.

Another tip with respect to making sure that the forward collar turns freely is to make sure that the shifting lever is in the reverse side of neutral. The manual calls for the shifting lever to be in neutral, which is true enough, but the point is not so much that it is in neutral, but that it is securely AWAY from forward. If your reverse adjustment is such that the neutral zone is quite small, you can believe that you're in neutral and there may still sufficient pressure on the forward adjusting collar to make it difficult to turn.

Don

[tritonyawl]

Fixed! Does not pop out of gear anymore

I tried the adjustment one more time and finally got it. I had been working on the wrong parts! A diagram or picture that showed the collar more clearly would have helped. Once you know where it is and what's supposed to be adjusted, it's really pretty easy.