List of bolt/cap screw/nut sizes

[seapadrik]

Hey,

I am just now about to re-attach my small block to the oil pan and continue re-assembling. At this point I have decided since I have it out of the boat to pretty much replace any screw/bolt/nut fastener with a new replacement. I just cant bring myself to put some of those corroded ones back on even if a few of them cleaned up well.

I have already purchased all new studs from moyer for the head/exhaust manifold.

Does any one have a list of all the specs for the remaining fasteners ?

For example:

the bolts/screws that atttach the block to the oil pan ?
the bolts that attach the rear housing assembly to the oil pan/block ?
the bolts/screws that attach the water jacket ( although i think i might know these ones )
bolts that attach top plate cover to reverse gear case.

I bet quite a few of you have doen all these replacements during a rebuild.

Thanks

[jpian0923]

For exploded views and reference:

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog.php?manufacturer=Universal&model=Atomic%204&catalog=200150&printparts=200150&printservice=&printoperators=

But Buy everything else from Moyer.

[jpian0923]

Here is a better one:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/atomic4manual/partslist.pdf

[seapadrik]

Thanks for the diagrams. Huge help. It looks like the part/parts I need next is:

CAPSCREW 5/16NCx7/8

I hope I can find that at a local hardware store. Not sure what the NC means.

Regarding buying Moyer parts. I have purchased everything through Moyer on what is a total rebuild ( starter, electronic ignition, electric fuel pump, new carb, pistons, rings, main bearings, gaskets, etc...) So I feel that I have supported the cause so to speak. Truthfully I would have purchased everyone of these bolts if they were available in a kit.

Thanks again for the links.

[jpian0923]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread

NC= National Coarse

I would try a good auto parts store. I don't think most hardware stores have a high enough grade bolt.

I bet if you ask Ken at Moyer he will tell you where to get them or get them for you. Ask.

[ILikeRust]

As I have found with my rebuild, one of the many beautiful things about these wonderful, sturdy little engines is that nearly every single nut and bolt on them is a dirt standard size and can be acquired at any half-decent hardware store. In fact, I even found a few that I needed at - wait for it - Lowe's, of all places!

My experience with Lowe's has been that they'll have about 3/4 of the items I'm looking for.

Fortunately, there is a family-owned hardware store just a few miles in the opposite direction, and they have a much better selection - they even have a whole bunch of stainless fasteners, and oddball bits of hardware. For example, they even have a whole drawer of assorted Woodruff keys. Which came in very handy when I incorrectly disassembled my accessory drive, shearing off one of the Woodruff keys in the process.

I also replaced a bunch of different bolts on my engine - most of them just came from Lowe's - even some grade 8 stuff.

The reason I was so thrilled to discover how easy it is to replace the bolts on this engine is that this definitely is not the case with old woodworking machinery. I have restored a bunch of antique machinery (and have a bunch more waiting for me to get back to them!), and Walker-Turner was one of the worst for using oddball sizes that are hard to find. I actually had to have a guy custom-make a couple of knurled knobs with threaded studs on them for my Walker-Turner bandsaw.

[ILikeRust]

I would try a good auto parts store. I don't think most hardware stores have a high enough grade bolt.

You don't need grade 8 bolts for the oil pan - and even if you did, you can get them at Lowe's or any decent hardware store. You don't need to torque the daylights out of the oil pan bolts - and they all have lock washers. So just snug them down "good-n'-tight" and you're good to go. You could use stainless if you really want to get crazy. I thought about it...

[Al Schober]

One area where I would definately vary from 'stock' is in the fasteners for the plate over the water jacket. The stock cap screws are prone to leakage. Recommended change is to studs (JB Weld into block) and nuts.
You can determine the grade of the original fasteners by looking at the number of 'hash marks' on the head. None is grade 2, 3 marks is grade 5, and 5 marks is grade 8.

Al

[ILikeRust]

Bolt Depot chart explaining bolt grades and how to identify them.

[seapadrik]

Thanks again for the responses. I have another question. Do you know the size of the idler gear nut and washer ? I see a diagram of them in those pdf files, but no dimensions that I can see.

Thanks

[ILikeRust]

I sure don't.

Did you misplace yours?

If you don't have the bolt, do you have the Moyer Manual? Don is pretty good in there about specifying the sizes of each bolt.

If not, as it turns out, I happen to have my engine opened up again, despite the fact that I had previously closed it all back up.

And I am planning on starting to put it all back together tonight. If I remember, I'll take a look at it.

[ILikeRust]

One place I switched to grade 8 bolts was the two bolts that hold the camshaft into the block. The two small bolts originally used are surprisingly soft. According to the Moyer Manual, you have to be very careful not to twist the heads off. As it turns out with pretty much everything regarding the Atomic 4 engine, the Moyer Manual was right about that. Don't ask me how I know this.

I went out and bought grade 8 bolts and lock washers and got rid of those very soft old bolts. Totally overkill, I'm sure, but they weren't expensive, in the grand scheme of things, and I wasn't as worried about twisting their heads off.

[seapadrik]

Now that I look closer in the manual on page "P4-2" step 5:

Says "Remove the 3/4" nut holding the gear in place and slide off the gear."

So at least I know the overall size if not the grade.

Thanks

[ILikeRust]

I'm pretty sure all those bolts originally were just plain standard grade. There's no real strain on that bolt - it just keeps the gear from working its way off the little spindle/shaft.