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  #1   IP: 173.22.81.163
Old 04-07-2013, 12:14 PM
sailhog sailhog is offline
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water pump seal replacement

Howdy-ho! I'm rebuilding the flange MMI raw water pump. However, I'm not entirely clear on the instructions. Does anyone know which way to insert the new seals? For the impeller side seal, the directions say to "position it over the seal recess, so that the side with the spring visible faces the impeller chamber."

I'm guessing this means to have the part lettering facing away from the impeller chamber.

For the oil seal, the directions say: "install oil seal with the small coil spring on the lip of the seal facing downward."

I'm not sure what the "small coil spring on the lip of the seal" is. I'm guessing this means the lettering is facing the flange?

My best guess is that the lettering on both seals faces the flange side of the pump.... Anyone know for sure?

Thanks, everyone!
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  #2   IP: 24.224.152.244
Old 04-07-2013, 06:08 PM
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Sailhog,
If you look closely at a seal... take a second to look at the rubber ring. Without prying it look closely at the sealing lip and there is a spring there that goes around and helps it hold it's shape and contour....when they talk about a spring in the seal itself that's it. It holds the seal tight in over a shaft. I've never done one of those but should be very easy to see.....but the ring is in the rubber.
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Last edited by Mo; 04-07-2013 at 10:14 PM.
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  #3   IP: 74.101.158.133
Old 04-07-2013, 08:48 PM
tenders tenders is offline
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On the older model of pump, the letters embossed on the seals should be installed so that they FACE EACH OTHER in the pump. The UNEMBOSSED side of the seals is the side that faces the liquid being sealed.

Press them in with the largest socket that will fit on the seal. DO NOT USE ANYTHING SMALLER or the seal will get munged. I know this because I stupidly tried to do this with a quarter (ie, 0.25 piece) two days ago and it didn't work.
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  #4   IP: 173.22.81.163
Old 04-08-2013, 09:03 AM
sailhog sailhog is offline
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Mo and Tenders: Thanks, gentlemen! Got the new seals installed and the pump is working without leaking! Hee-haw!
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  #5   IP: 199.168.148.136
Old 04-08-2013, 11:05 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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Put the new seals in the freezer for awhile then carry to the work area between a couple of cakes of frozen blue ice. It makes it easier to get them started squarely.

TRUE GRIT
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  #6   IP: 24.224.152.244
Old 04-08-2013, 01:22 PM
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Good tip John...I get ya...contract the metal ever so slightly...smart.
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  #7   IP: 173.22.81.163
Old 04-08-2013, 06:10 PM
sailhog sailhog is offline
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So you're trying to contract the rings in the seals?
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  #8   IP: 24.224.152.244
Old 04-08-2013, 06:23 PM
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Sailhog,
It's the principle of metal contracting when cooled...if you were having trouble getting a rusty nut off you would heat it. I think John is refering to the metal casing holding the seal...they are a tight fit but if cooled slide just that little bit easier.
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1976 C&C 30 MKI

The pessimist complains about the wind.
The optimist expects it to change.
The realist adjusts the sails.
...Sir William Arthur Ward.
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  #9   IP: 199.168.148.136
Old 04-08-2013, 06:52 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo View Post
Sailhog,
It's the principle of metal contracting when cooled...if you were having trouble getting a rusty nut off you would heat it. I think John is refering to the metal casing holding the seal...they are a tight fit but if cooled slide just that little bit easier.
Correct.
Put the seal(s) in the freezer. Leave the pump body at room temp. You only get two or three whacks before they warm up but by then they are started square and it's easy to press or hammer them in straight. As I remember it's a 13/16" socket?

TRUE GRIT
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:58 PM
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John, I will remember that next time I putting a seal in. Just a couple of weeks ago had a hell of a time starting the pinion seal in my truck. Dana 60 front diff in that and a large seal...my biggest socket wasn't even close. I ended up laying it in place and using a piece of flat bar to start it...then I was able to tap it in easily. Could have used the ice trick on that. I read that on here once before but didn't remember it.
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  #11   IP: 199.168.148.136
Old 04-08-2013, 07:25 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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Mo
I turned the freezer control to as cold as it would go for a few hours before I put the seals in it to "chill out".

TRUE GRIT
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:45 PM
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Our yard uses a cooler with dry ice in it to cool cutless bearings to make them easier to insert. I imagine that would work for seals too.

Just don't touch it with bare fingers!
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  #13   IP: 173.22.81.163
Old 04-09-2013, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardc View Post

Just don't touch it with bare fingers!
I just touched it with my tongue. Now what do I do?
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:48 AM
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No worries, Don Moyer will presently offer a custom tongue-removing tool.
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  #15   IP: 207.179.13.196
Old 04-09-2013, 11:14 AM
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Sailhog,
do you have any pictures of your water pump rebuild....
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:15 PM
sailhog sailhog is offline
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2dogs,
Unfortunately I don't and the pump has already been installed. It's an easy rebuild, as the kit comes with instructions. The only step that puzzled me had to do with the seals. Once the pump was off, I had it apart and put back together within an hour. I ran the engine for half an hour after the reinstallation, and it works perfectly with no leaks.

For the record, on the MMI flange pump, the lips of both seals face the impeller side of the pump. The lettering on the seals face the flange side of the pump.
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  #17   IP: 207.179.13.196
Old 04-09-2013, 01:04 PM
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instructions puzzle me
.....I am definitelly "see and than do" kind of guy...
Your thread is very helpfull already
Thank you Seahog
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  #18   IP: 70.192.74.154
Old 04-16-2013, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailhog View Post
For the record, on the MMI flange pump, the lips of both seals face the impeller side of the pump. The lettering on the seals face the flange side of the pump.
I don't doubt this, but could you explain it? As I understand those seals, one seals against water and the other seals against oil. If they're installed in "parallel" as you say, they aren't similarly aligned against the liquids they're sealing.

What am I missing?
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Old 05-01-2015, 04:00 PM
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It does seem counter intuitive,

but when has intuition gotten me anywhere?

All this (and the instructions) is saying the side of the water seal with the spring and the recess faces the impeller chamber, and so is exposed to water. It took me a while to wrap my head around this.

Here's what came out of my pump
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