Palmer P60

[AFisch]

Yes you did, my mistake. As for the air leak: the carb I originally had in it was causing an air leak. We found that out when we replaced it with one ndutton knew worked well and it fired up and ran without issue (once tuned a bit). Thankfully, I had an extra and rebuilt it and replaced ndutton's with ittoday and fired her up, again with no issues (and a bit of tuning). My apologies for the red herring

No worries... I am just stoked everyone on here is so ready to help!

I don't think I have an air leak, but I will find a way of checking.

[JOHN COOKSON]

I think I may have a dirty fuel tank, and when getting all tossed around while out on open water, the sediment got all stirred up and clogged us.

This is a real possibility. Goes like this:
Sediment in the tank gets stirred up by the boat's motion and is sucked up against the end the tanks fuel outlet tube and is held there by the suction of the fuel pump. The engine dies and the sediment drops off because there is no longer any suction from the fuel pump.
Have you tried running from an auxiliary tank?

ex TRUE GRIT

[joe_db]

This is a real possibility. Goes like this:
Sediment in the tank gets stirred up by the boat's motion and is sucked up against the end the tanks fuel outlet tube and is held there by the suction of the fuel pump. The engine dies and the sediment drops off because there is no longer any suction from the fuel pump.
Have you tried running from an auxiliary tank?

ex TRUE GRIT

I had that issue, except it was pieces of the fill hose. I figured it out with a vacuum gauge on the INTAKE side of the filter.

[AFisch]

This is a real possibility. Goes like this:
Sediment in the tank gets stirred up by the boat's motion and is sucked up against the end the tanks fuel outlet tube and is held there by the suction of the fuel pump. The engine dies and the sediment drops off because there is no longer any suction from the fuel pump.
Have you tried running from an auxiliary tank?

ex TRUE GRIT

The engine fired right back up the next day...I have used an auxiliary tank when I had a bigger issue earlier (float in carb was bent)...but now that the engine is running again, an auxiliary would only work for me if the problem happens again, and likely when out on open water getting tossed around.

If it is sediment...it all settled back when slitting in the slip overnight.

[ndutton]

The engine fired right back up the next day..

Your fuel tank sediment theory may be correct but as yet it is not at all conclusive. Notice that the 13 step MMI Shutdown Checklist directs you to check the ignition function first, not just the spark plugs but the entire ignition system function.

To the quotation above, an overheated coil will cease to produce spark resulting in a shutdown but here is the perplexing part - - after it cools it will seem to heal itself and operate as before but for a shorter time before it quits again. That may have been the case with your recent shutdown and subsequent restart the following day. The sequence of events and time periods between DO NOT eliminate the coil as a possible cause, not yet. More testing is needed.

[AFisch]

Thanks so much Dave...Now even though I will re-do my fuel line set up...you have me thinking it could be my spark plugs.

Just a quick thought...I haven't had any real time to spend on boat since last chiming in here...but ran down quickly over the weekend as it had rained a lot and I needed to make sure everything was ok...

Decided to fire up the engine for a few moments just for good measure. Keep in mind I have not checked the resistance of the coil yet...but it did take about 6-7 times of trying to turn then engine over before she fired up...Turn the key, starter tries to engage, but no spark...6 or 7 times later, I get spark and it fires up.

Now that I am becoming more familiar with everything (thanks to you guys)...this does lead me to believe that it is a spark issue after all...prob related to a shitty coil, and probably also related to old spark plugs.

Does this sound right??

I will do the resistance check and maybe even just put my old coil back on, and i will replace spark plugs. Just want to make sure I am ordering the right plugs for the old Palmer. Anything I should be looking for in-particular for the plugs?

I've recently replaced the condenser in the distributor...will the plugs in the "tuneup kit" from the Moyer website be the right ones for a Palmer if anyone knows? (I'd like to support Moyer if possible)

[joe_db]

I found an old fuel pressure gauge. If you don't mind the glycerine being a bit brown send me your address and it is yours.

[AFisch]

I found an old fuel pressure gauge. If you don't mind the glycerine being a bit brown send me your address and it is yours.

Really!! Thanks! Although I could go buy one, but I'll take it.

I still think it is now spark related, but good to have an install anyways since I will be re-doing my whole fuel line set up.


I had my personal info on here, but decided to send you a PM

I trust you guys, but don't know whose lurking in from behind the scenes

I'd be more than happy to pay the shipping...the very least I could do!

[Dave Neptune]

Adam, I sent you a PM, check for it.

Dave Neptune

[JOHN COOKSON]

Have you checked the boat's part of the ignition system key -> coil?
Start the engine and shake the wires. Especially at the end connectors. If there is any intermittent loose connections the engine will stop.
Also there is a plug(s) in the wiring between the key and the coil pull it apart to see if the contacts are clean and bright.

ex TRUE GRIT

[AFisch]

Have you checked the boat's part of the ignition system key -> coil?
Start the engine and shake the wires. Especially at the end connectors. If there is any intermittent loose connections the engine will stop.
Also there is a plug(s) in the wiring between the key and the coil pull it apart to see if the contacts are clean and bright.

ex TRUE GRIT

Good idea for a quick check.

Also, had a great phone call with Dave Neptune yesterday (I really appreciate it Dave!) this whole forum as been so helpful. He suggested the same thing as a something for me to check. Really opened my eyes to other possibilities and easy to do routine checks.

Again, everyone on here has been so helpful, I can't thank you all enough!

[Golforboat]

Engine stalling

Don’t know if you are still having this issue but I had a similar problem with my Palmer 60 for a year after I had replaced the cylinder head on the engine. Ran fine for about a half hour or more and then would gradually stall and would not restart until it cooled down. After chasing all of the same issues you described with no luck finally found the solution in the strangest place. Turns out that there is a small fitting and hose at the front (flywheel side) of the engine that is designed to vent steam that will build up in that side of the engine and not allow the front cylinder to properly cool. The reason for this vent is that the mounting of the engine tilting back front to back to accommodate a sailboat means that side of the engine is higher and would create an air pocket of steam if not released. The excess heat is most likely causing that cylinder to pre-fire as the fuel ignites before the fuel is compressed. The solution was as simple as making sure that the vent hose was open completely on both ends. Turns out that a little crustation had built a home there and plugged the vent. I used a paper clip to open the vent and have not had a problem since. A thank you to David Grosse mentioned earlier for the initial suggestion.

[Golforboat]

Starting issue

Reaching out to this tread for some additional assistance. Recently rebuilt my Zenith carb and after some lengthy tweaking (becoming an expert at removing and taking the carb apart) have it running fine but cannot get to start when cold. My only solution currently is to physically “choke” the carb by putting my hand over the intake to create enough suction to get fuel into the cylinders. Once it starts and is warm will restart every time. When it cools completely overnight need to go back to the manual process. This should happen with the choke but does not create enough suction. Did not make any changes to the choke on rebuild other than reattach the cable. Any thoughts? I’ve tried everything I can think of. Thank you.

[JOHN COOKSON]

How did you adjust the choke cable?
Here's the correct way.
In the cockpit support the knob ~ 1/4" off the stop by wrapping wire or something else around it.
At the carburetor secure the outer cover and pass the center wire through the choke. Hold the choke open, and pull the center wire tight with pair of pliers and tighten the hold down screw on the choke. This takes two hands and a tail but it can be done. Remove the wire that is holding the knob up off the stop, pull the knob up, and check to see if the choke is fully closed. When you open the choke all the way the knob will be ~ 1/4" off the stop.

ex TRUE GRIT

[GregH]

How did you adjust the choke cable?
... Hold the choke closed, and pull the center wire tight with pair of pliers and tighten the hold down screw on the choke. ...Remove the wire that is holding the knob up off the stop, pull the knob up, and check to see if the choke is fully closed.
ex TRUE GRIT

Could you please clarify, if one attaches the wire with the choke held closed, how can one pull any more on the knob to close the choke more? With the choke a 1/4" from the stop, wouldn't the choke would remain in a "closed" position?