2 quick & dumb questions

[ExumaCays]

During a recent visit to my very-far-from-home boat I had but a brief few minutes to spend on the A4--after 2 years sitting in dry dock. So my memory of simple things A4-related is quite foggy. It fired right up, which was both shocking and euphoric (no water flow, but I think I can handle that when I return with more parts, more time, and my Moyer bible).
Anyway:

1) Should the gear shift be able to move at all with the engine off? I'm 99% certain the answer is no, but figured I'd make sure...The A4 started and sounded great, but putting it in gear to verify the transmission,cable, and shifting mechanism were okay didn't occur to me until I was 30,000 feet up and heading home, not to return for some time to come.

2) The prop shaft needs to be removed from the boat (for rudder installation), but I couldn't do it and will have the not-necessarily-knowledgeable yard give it a try. As far as I can tell, the shaft is held in the coupling via one set screw and a bronze key (little bronze bar set in a keyway on the shaft). I figured after removing the set screw (bolt, actually), the only force keeping the shaft in the coupling might be friction from the key. One 250lb man pulling on the prop could not overcome this, at least, so I'm wondering if there's something I'm overlooking. Another mechanical fitting somewhere? Something more to the coupling?
I know coupling & shaft configuration differ on every boat, but for typical scenarios, any insight is appreciated.

[Don Moyer]

The best way to remove the prop shaft from the prop shaft coupling (after the prop shaft coupling and engine output couplings are separated) is to place a nut or small socket between the front of the prop shaft and the aft end of the tail shaft of the reversing gear. Be sure that the set screws in the prop shaft coupling are removed, and then pull the prop shaft coupling and engine output coupling together again using three fine threaded hardened bolts. The bolts will need to be slightly longer than the originals (approximately 2") and continuously threaded.

As the prop shaft coupling is pulled forward against the output coupling, the prop shaft itself will be extruded out of the prop shaft coupling by pressing against the socket. You may have to insert progressively longer sockets (or combinations of nuts and sockets) between the couplings as the prop shaft moves out of the coupling.

Under no circumstances should the yard mechanics leave the coupling connected to the engine output coupling and simply try beating on the prop to pull the shaft out of the coupling. In the past, we've received reports of the big ball thrust bearing being pulled out through the cast iron rear flange at the very back of the engine using this method of removal.

Don

[ndutton]

Having worked at a few sailboat plants in the 70's, Don's description is exactly how we did it. One further note regarding the yard's work: with the shaft out, carefully hand file the shaft end so that it slides into the engine coupling smoothly but still snug. I've seen it over and over where the yard employees will get a wood block and a sledge hammer and beat the shaft into place. The new fit means the coupling set screw dimple alignment and tightness are critical to keeping the shaft in place.

[roadnsky]

Should the gear shift be able to move at all with the engine off?

Yes, you can move the shift lever to forward and reverse as well as do adjustments with the engine off.

[ExumaCays]

Thank you all for the quick replies and especially the warning about excessive force on the coupling. I never would have thought to try the method described.
And thanks to Roadnsky for the reality check. Guess I need to disassemble and lube the whole shift lever/chassis & cable setup.