broken water jacket

[T27_478]

Hello all,

I have copious amounts of water again in the case (did 5 oil changes two weeks ago) and have run for only about two hours. The milk is almost to the top of the dipstick.

I'm fairly certain this is a crack due the volume of water and the fact that the engine runs great which rules out anything exhaust related (new head gasket, all valves are free, exhaust is smooth).

I have an oberdorfer pump so I feel like water intrusion from there isn't an issue and again, in the volume I'm seeing I don't suspect this is an issue.

My question: Is there a quick and dirty solution to this? Or is the only real solution to pull the engine, locate and repair the crack. I remember seeing radiator sealer stuff for cars, would that work to patch the crack up for the next few weeks until I can get her out of the water for the winter and do some work?

If the only solution is to pull the engine then I'll probably pull it for good and put in an electric drive. I've fixed almost everything on this engine but a cracked block is going to be the straw that breaks this camel's back.

[ndutton]

Before you make a major decision based on conjecture, I'd perform a pressure test on the cooling system. It's easy to do and can be done in place. I'd test the block separately from the manifold. If the test fails as you expect it will at least you'll know for sure.

All it takes is a $10 gas pressure test gauge & Schrader valve kit from Home Depot and a bicycle pump. Despite recommendations by others, please keep the pressure low, like 5 lbs. If the block cooling passages will hold 5 lbs. of air, they'll hold water at zero PSI and at that low test pressure you won't cause damage to a questionable system.

[tenders]

Cheaper test, motivation and results:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7221

If 5 lbs is the right pressure, then use 5 lbs! But mine held 15-18 lbs just fine.

(Every bike pump should have an integral pressure gauge.)