Engine hasn't started in 10+ years, what to know

[krazzz]

Hello, I am new to the group and this is my first post. (I did search the forum but surprisingly didn't find this topic.)

I just aquired a boat with an Atomic 4 circa 1971. The guy I bought it from has had the boat for 5 years as he has been restoring it. He never started the motor and doesn't know much about it's history. The last registration on the boat is 2003 so I assume it was running about 10 years ago. I am new to sailboats but not to motors that have been sitting a long time. I have restored many "barn find" cars and motorcycles. Now to my question:

Is there anything special I need to know about a marine engine when trying to start one that has sat for a while? I will do the usual compression check, oil change, fresh gas, clean carb, and new plugs. What else do I need to do and/or look for? Thanks in advance for your help and I look forward to being a part of this forum.

The parts that I have the least knowledge about are the exhaust system and cooling system as they seem pretty "boat specific." Everything else seems pretty strait forward. An internal combustion engine is an internal combustion engine. If you have air, fuel, spark and compression at the proper timing it will run. Now the tricky part is getting those things to fall in line. From what I have read these engines are pretty reliable if the maintenance is good.

[Dave Neptune]

U got it

krazz, first welcome to the Afourian Forum.

All the you mentioned pretty well covers it as far as getting an old motor started.

One bit of advise I'd offer is to be sure the water valve is closed for your start project. Continued cranking can fill the exhaust with water and when done cranking it can come back into the engine through an open exhaust valve.

Another is these engines tend to have the exhaust valves be a bit sticky after long periods of lay-up. SPRAY a bit of oil into the cylinders to get a bot of coating while spinning it is best. It will also help free the rings if stuck too.

If you have descent compression on 2 cylinders you should be able to get it started and usually it will shake anything loose in a few minutes of running like the valves and rings. Marine engines are exposed to the evaporation of the water in the exhaust when let sit.

Dave Neptune

[roadnsky]

Krazzz-
Welcome to the forum!

This is from Don's FAQ's...


FAQ: General Information
21. Precautions when starting up an engine that has been sitting idle

Assuming that the previous owner followed the simple procedure of “fogging” the engine with Marvel Mystery Oil when it was last shut down, and/or that the engine still turns freely,
there are only a few things that you need to be concerned about.

1) During early attempts to start, we recommend keeping the raw water thru hull valve closed until the engine actually starts, to insure that you won't flood the exhaust system (and engine) with water. As soon as the engine does start however, be sure that you open the valve immediately.

2) Remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over a few times on the starter to check for compression. The compression should be enough so as to make it practically impossible to hold your thumb over the each of the spark plug holes while the engine is turning over. If one of two cylinders are weak, it might be that one of the valves is slightly hanging up. This condition will probably clear up as soon as the engine starts. A few squirts of Marvel Mystery Oil in the weak cylinders would be helpful.

3) Check all fuel filters, and inspect the fuel supply by removing one of the plugs in the bottom of the carburetor (preferably the “main passage plug”). Then pump some fuel through the carburetor and into a small glass container, by either working the manual priming lever on the mechanical fuel pump, or by powering the electrical fuel pump.

If the fuel appears clean and free of water, reprime the carburetor, and inspect the choke valve to insure that it fully closes when you pull the choke control in the cockpit. You should then be ready to start, fuel-wise.

NOTE: There is frequently a lot of concern over old fuel. If later, the engine won't start and you think that it is due to old fuel (like if it smells funny and has a strange color), I would suggest that you pump off enough to try it in a lawn mower or other small engine prior to going through the rigors of draining and replacing all the fuel. Not that you may not want to do a lot of heavy maintenance on the fuel supply at some point, but you can probably pick a better time when you're dealing with a lot of other start-up issues. In most cases, the concern over old fuel is overstated.

4) Clean the points by rotating the engine until they are closed, and then run a piece of cardboard between them. Then, with the ignition switch on, flick the points open and closed a few times while holding the main coil lead from the top of the coil about a quarter of an inch from the head, while observing for a good spark. If the spark is healthy (a half inch or better), the engine should be ready to start, ignition-wise.

5) Check for good oil in the crankcase, charge the batteries, and start the engine.

[krazzz]

Thanks for the replies. I figured I was on the right track. My boat is on the hard so I was wondering how do I hook up the water? I don't really see a fitting for a garden hose or anything.

[Dave Neptune]

Careful with the hose!

krazz, are you FWC or RWC? Either way the preferred way is to drop the intake line to the pump into a bucket and let it "draw" the water. Running the hose directly at line pressure can be a bit hazardous to old gaskets and such due to the excessive pressure being supplied.
You can easily get one of these running "dry" and run for a few minutes without damage. A good idea to be sure the pump impeller is wet or squirt a bit of lube into it, you may need to a hose to do so.

Dave Neptune

[krazzz]

I am RWC. Good point with the water pressure. Don't want to mess anything up. I'll mess with the water after I get it up and running.

[Dave Neptune]

Btw

krazz, BTW I have the E-35 MKII 1970 with the original A-4. I bought the boat with a seized motor, replaced an exhaust valve, broke her loose so she'd spin and get runnin'. That was in '84 and I have not been stuck wsince.

Dave Neptune

[krazzz]

krazz, BTW I have the E-35 MKII 1970 with the original A-4. I bought the boat with a seized motor, replaced an exhaust valve, broke her loose so she'd spin and get runnin'. That was in '84 and I have not been stuck wsince.

Dave Neptune

Nice work with yours! Supposedly mine will crank over on it's own. Haven't got it home yet to work on it so can't confirm that.

[HalcyonS]

What else do I need to do and/or look for?

here's a couple of suggestions since its been idle so long (might be obvious, you've probably done it -

Since the engine is RWC and has been dry for a long time, a good long vinegar flush might be in order (once you know the impeller is good, or replace it). Who knows how much crud is in there ?!

Check/replace hoses and hoseclamps

Externally - how is the wiring, fuses, switches, batteries? Marine air is nasty to electrical connections - switch contacts etc can become resistors, or in extreme cases, build up of corrosion can cause shorts. I'd get inside switches fuse contacts and connections and soak in WD40 for a week or so.

Flush fuel tank.

my two cents