Removing shift lever

[tsell]

I have been trying unsuccessfully for several days to get the the shift lever off the reversing gear cross shaft. I have heated the lever several times, right around the shaft, and as it cooled sprayed it with PB blaster, then let it soak for a good 12 hours each time before attempting to tap the lever off. So far it has not even budged. I am concerned that if I heat the lever too much or hammer on the lever I may damage the reversing gear or some of the seals.
I don't really want to cut it off if I don't have to, but I am starting to think that might be the only way this will come off. Does anyone have any suggestions,or something that I am missing?

Thanks in advance!

Tom

[BunnyPlanet169]

If you don't have one, it's totally worth getting a gear puller at the hardware or tractor store. They come with three arms at 120 degrees apart, but can usually be configured to use only two arms - 180 degrees apart. These make short work of things stuck on shafts... When you need one, nothing else will really do.

[tsell]

Thanks, I don't have one, but will add it to my collection.

[Oldlaxer1]

Thanks, I don't have one, but will add it to my collection.

Autozone will loan one to you if you leave a deposit. I think the deposit was 50.00. I used it to pull my prop. Good luck.

[Marty Levenson]

removal

I had to take mine off last week to shorten it for rebuilt engine installation. Key on mine was first remove screw, second pry open the seam on the lever with a hammer and chisel with a pretty steep wedge shape, then tap the shifter off the shaft if you can get a good angle. If not, you will likely need a puller.

[edwardc]

I had to take mine off last week to shorten it for rebuilt engine installation. Key on mine was first remove screw, second pry open the seam on the lever with a hammer and chisel with a pretty steep wedge shape, then tap the shifter off the shaft if you can get a good angle. If not, you will likely need a puller.

I believe only the improved Moyer shift lever has a split hub. The original Universal part did not, making it a b&%ch to get off. I used a cheap 3-arm wheel-puller from Harbor Freight that did not have the ability to reconfigure as a 2-arm. This made it more difficult than it needed to be, but it worked. Some sort of wheel puller is definitely needed for the OEM part.

[Marty Levenson]

Thanks

...good to know. As I move from my early model A4 to my newly installed late model Moyer rebuild I am learning about the differences there too.

-Marty

[tsell]

Success! I used a combination of a 2 jaw puller and CRC Freeze off. That stuff is amazing, i had been giving the lever PB Blaster treatments twice a day, and when I tried the puller the only thing that happened was that the arms of the cheap puller bent and popped off the lever. I followed the directions on the Freeze Off and had the lever off in less than 10 minutes.