Ericson 27 - Atomic start problemnewbie but not mech newbie

[Ram41662]

Do you have any play in the height?

If so, the same supplier has an 18" x 16" x 11.5" 12 gallon tank.

[alcodiesel]

I find it mildly interesting that my 76 Ericson 27 has an aluminum tank or at least a non magnetic metal. You made me check.

[ndutton]

How precise are the provided measurements (24 x 16 x 10)? Any wiggle room like +/- ½"?

[CajunSpike]

The height cannot be more than 10". Thats a hard limit between the support and cockpit floor.
The length cannot be more than 24" or it won't fit side to side when slid in place since the hull narrows to the rear.
The width can be +/- 2 or 3 inches as best I figure. Since I could slide the old tank forward that means it had extra width space.

After posting the last note, I found a plastic tank 24/18.5/7.25 and ordered it.
Its a 12 gallon. The tank fill doesn't line up with the deck fill hole, but that can be dealt with.
Also means I can install a fuel gauge with it.

Part number is MOELLER 032512. Got it for $207 out the door including shipping.
Fingers crossed I can work with it.


Am I ok continuing the discussion here even if I seem to have gotten past my main problem stage?

And I'll say it again, THANK YOU to everybody trying to help.

As a future reference note, the shift cable was replaced with 10' XTreme 6400CC Control Cable.
Fit perfectly.

[Whippet]

Moeller

I'm very happy with Moeller i put in about 6 years ago. It has added benefit of visual inspection of fuel level. and now you know you have clean fuel without an old tank full of crud. good on you for all the hard work

[CajunSpike]

I'm trying to do this sensibly and a little at a time.
Thanks.

A person by the name of Jeff Ashbury had a detailed write up on how to remove the tank in an Ericson 27.
He had done it before and his instructions made it possible for me. I ran into him on Facebook and told him thanks personally.
Be happy to post a link to the how-to pdf if anybody interested.

New tank came in today. Probably will try to install this weekend.
Also now have the option of a fuel gauge, that didn't exist before.

[sastanley]

CS, As Whippet notes, if you can see the tank, you don't really need a gauge with a Moeller. Mine is under the quarterberth, but I have an access panel. I shine a flashlight thru the tank in the dark, but in the day time I can easily see the fuel level right thru the tank. I didn't bother with the complexity of adding a gauge.

[CajunSpike]

Todays progress

Stopped at West Marine and bought all the hoses, clamps, barbs, etc needed to install the tank.

First order of business was to reinstall the repaired/welded shift cable arm.
Once the tranny cover bolts that hold the shift cable arm were nice and tight, the new shift cable was attached to to the arm and clamped into position. Fit perfectly. Put the pin to connect the cable to the tranny shift lever in place.
Gave the shift lever a try. Still took some effort to shift but it was infinitely better than it was with the old rusted cable.
Done!

The air vent line from the tank to the outside was totally rotten. I got a smaller size friend to come help me on that since I couldn't really fit in the port locker. She climbed in the port locker and cut out/removed the rotten hose. I gave her the new hose and clamps. Only took a few minutes. Made SURE to put a loop in the air vent line so its pretty impossible for outside water to drain into the tank.
Done!

Had some already painted 1x4's in the garage from a previous project.
Bought several pieces I thought would be useful to build up a fuel tank support.

Due to the shorter height, the tank would not jam in like the other did. Built a cradle that fits the tank outline and restrains the tank from sliding around. It was screwed down to the existing fuel tank supports. Connected up the fuel filler hose/air vent hose/fuel suction and dropped the new tank into the locker. The tank slid in the lazerette with just enough room to get it in/out as needed.


Used a fuel transfer pump to move 3 gallons from an outboard tank to the inboard tank.

Wife wanted a fuel gauge, so that settles that.
The tank already had a sending unit, and I found a $22 gauge at Pep Boys.
Pre-wired the fuel gauge, then mounted it inside the port locker. Hooked up the power/ground wires. Gauge worked with key on.
Done!

By this time it was getting late, but I did want to see if things would work.
Fully connected the fuel line and switched on the ignition. This makes the electric fuel pump kick on. I watched the see thru fuel filter expecting to see gas, but NO fuel was being sucked out of the tank. Checked the fuel line to make sure it was not kinked. Was able to freely move the line in all areas.

I disconnected the fuel suction and tried blowing into the tank, but did not get any resistance. Wondering if the suction point is higher than the 3 gallon fill level.
The fuel tank barb was installed tightly with some white sealant tape, so I don't think there's an air leak in that spot.

So at this point, I just put everything back together and called it a night.
Got a lot done, but the final point of a working fuel system still eludes me.

[GregH]

Looking good!

Please remember that these polyethylene tanks will expand up to 3% once fuel in put in the first time. That could mean 3/4" in overall length and less for the other dimensions. Can your side restraint boards be adjusted if necessary ?

[CajunSpike]

I left about a 1" gap on both ends of the cradle. About 1/4" in the middle. Actually wondering if I left too much space.

Do not yet have something to limit the tank from moving UP.
Have ideas but not done yet.
Hoping to go back and continue today.

[joe_db]

If you can't suck fuel out and there are no bubbles when you blow air in, one of these four things has happened:
1. You got the vent and fuel supply hoses reversed.
2. The tank holds a lot of unusable fuel.
3. The pickup tube fell off.
4. The pickup tube was never installed.

[GregH]

I left about a 1" gap on both ends of the cradle. About 1/4" in the middle. Actually wondering if I left too much space.

Do not yet have something to limit the tank from moving UP.
Have ideas but not done yet.
Hoping to go back and continue today.

I wouldn't worry about vertical expansion as it looks like you have lots of space. As for having too much room, once the tank settles it's far easier to add material to make it snug.

[CajunSpike]

The sides of the cradle go up about 1/2 way on the tank.

I made the side walls with 1x3's screwed down to a base made of 1x4's.
Didn't use plywood because if it gets wet, the water can drain thru the boards instead of getting stuck on a flat surface.

It would take a massive amount of motion to make the tank lift up...still though its only right to hold it down. May just use a tie down strap.

Went back to boat today. Rather than assume the worst about the gas tank, I had the idea to use a different fuel pump.

Knowing any fuel pump that feeds a carburetor could flood it, I put a very low pressure pump(1-4 psi) on the carb.

I also had a high volume/pressure pump that I used to transfer fuel from tank to tank.

I disconnected the tank suction line to the carb and hooked the transfer pump to that line.

Switched it on and within a few seconds the clear filter filled with fuel.
Had the pump output going back to the fuel fill, in a loop.

Now that the air was out the filter/lines, I shut down the big pump and reconnected the carb pump.

Hit the key, started the motor(so glad I can actually do that thanks to you guys!) and watched the clear fuel filter. Within a few seconds, the fuel did begin to flow thru the clear filter to the carb pump. I'm guessing it took more power to suck the fuel up the air bound tank suction than the carb pump could do. Ran the engine for about 20 minutes shifting fwd/reverse now and then. Shifter was so stinking wonderful with a new shift cable. Had also pumped out/refilled the engine crank case with fresh oil eariler. Motor sounded so good and quiet it was unbelievable. I just sat there for a while listening to the smooth burble of great engine.

So that this point all the major mechanical systems appear to be working.
Yes there's a lot other things to do such as does the fresh water tank work?
Do all the lights inside/outside work..and on...and on.

But I mean this in all sincerity, without a working engine which this team of friends helped me get figured out and running, nothing else mattered.

Thank you all.

So in the space of 3 months, this boat has gone from a non working hole in the water to something that can actually be taken out for a ride.

I'm feeling what I have to do next wouldn't be too interesting to the group. Be glad to check in now and then or continue my logs if ya'll want me to. So glad I found about about this place.

Will be ordering spare engine tune up kit shortly.

One question does come to mind.

The seawater pump is on the rear of the engine obviously.
The engine is enclosed on 3 sides by fiberglass walls.

I was afraid it would be difficult to remove the cover plate to get to the pump impeller as the space is tight.

As I was reconnecting the shift cable, I saw the raw water pump cover was held on by four thumb screws.

Have you seen this design before? Is this how the pump cover is usually attached?
Saves trying to get what I thought would be 4 machine screws off in tight, confined, and dark area.

[JOHN COOKSON]

I'm feeling what I have to do next wouldn't be too interesting to the group????. Be glad to check in now and then or continue my logs if ya'll want me to.
.

I think it would be great if you continue to post your progress getting the boat in ship shape. You certainly have above average abilities and do a great job of posting. Others for sure could learn from you.
This forum is pretty much a full service forum - not just about engines.

TRUE GRIT

[joe_db]

I also had a high volume/pressure pump that I used to transfer fuel from tank to tank.
>>>>>>


The seawater pump is on the rear of the engine obviously.

As I was reconnecting the shift cable, I saw the raw water pump cover was held on by two thumb screws.

Have you seen this design before? Is this how the pump cover is usually attached?
Saves trying to get what I thought would be 4 machine screws off in tight, confined, and dark area.

1 - If you can't prime with your normal pump, this may be an issue in the future.
2. https://moyermarine.com/product/mmi-...t-csob_10_370/
Do you have something like that?