Sluggish start but good batteries

[jgnobis]

Hello, new to the forum here and I have two issues I'm troubleshooting.

First, recently, when starting the engine from a cold start, the start up is churning slugishly like I have underpowered or bad batteries to start. However, the batteries are fully charged and maintaining 12.5-6 voltage during the start. I do this until either batteries can't maintain enough juice and I have to recharge them for a while. After about 3-4 tries, so far, I've been able get it started but am worried that I'll be out on the water and won't be able to recharge my batteries as I'm not plugged into shorepower.

Any thoughts for why startup would seem like a bad or underpowered battery but the batteries are fine? Fly wheel? Starter? Solenoid?

Also, after its been warmed up and going for a while, when I shut it down it starts right back up no problem.

Any thoughts on how and what to troubleshoot?

Second issue is that when started, and I put it into forward gear, after a few seconds it stalls. Restarts no problem and I've been just feathering the gear forward to until it warms up a bit more and then it no longer stalls out. Not sure these two issues are related yet.

[Dave Neptune]

First welcome to the MMI Afourian Forum.

What you describe could be a few things or a combination there of. My first suggestion would be to have a load test done on the battery or batteries. A battery can easily show good voltage but have little amperage (reserve power) stored for cranking IE a weak battery. Also check the battery connections at the battery, the battery switch and on the solenoid. Pay attention to the grounds on the battery too. I would check the batteries before looking at the starter or solenoid.

Second, how long since a tune up? Do you have an EI or points?

Your second issue could be as simple as an idle adjustment or a dirty carb mostly being the idle circuit that is dirty. Have you tried adjusting the idle air screw? I would first try turning the idle air screw "in 1/2 turn" which will richen the mixture up at idle. The idle screw adjusts the air not fuel. If that helps then we are working in the right direction.

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

Part II

Also check visually that the choke is fully closed when in use. That will really influence cold starting.

Dave Neptune

[jgnobis]

First welcome to the MMI Afourian Forum.

What you describe could be a few things or a combination there of. My first suggestion would be to have a load test done on the battery or batteries. A battery can easily show good voltage but have little amperage (reserve power) stored for cranking IE a weak battery. Also check the battery connections at the battery, the battery switch and on the solenoid. Pay attention to the grounds on the battery too. I would check the batteries before looking at the starter or solenoid.

Second, how long since a tune up? Do you have an EI or points?

Your second issue could be as simple as an idle adjustment or a dirty carb mostly being the idle circuit that is dirty. Have you tried adjusting the idle air screw? I would first try turning the idle air screw "in 1/2 turn" which will richen the mixture up at idle. The idle screw adjusts the air not fuel. If that helps then we are working in the right direction.

Dave Neptune

Thank you Dave, I'll see about load for cranking amps and all connections again. I did a tune up about 60 engine hours ago and its Electric Ignition.

I cleaned the carb not that long ago but not sure abou the ide circuit. Will check. Also can adjust the idle air screw. Will take some steps and reply back if that works or doesn't.

Strange that the stalling only happens under forward gear load vs. in neutral or reverse.

[Dave Neptune]

The stalling in forward more than reverse is because reverse has a reduction (1.3:1) whereas forward is direct drive (1:1) and more sensitive due to 30% more load at a given RPM.

As you have an EI your tune is probably fine. You will need to check the C-advance more than changing any parts out. Just give the rotor a twist and it should move freely and spring right back, if not oil it up a bit.

Dave Neptune

[ndutton]

A test I would like to see is the voltage at the starter post during a sluggish start.

[Al Schober]

Agree with Neil. During a normal start, the starter will pull down the battery a few volts. I suspect you have a bad cable or connection that's preventing a normal flow of current.
You'll need a decent digital multimeter that will measure 12 volts to two decimal places - ie: 12.xx volts. I like to file the points of the probes to a needle point. They'll go right through insulation to take a reading.
To start, use the ground terminal of the start battery as your ground point. Not the ground lug, but the actual lead post. Measure to the lug coming out of the starter. Make a separate measurement at the cable attachment to the battery. A third measurement would be to the engine block. These three numbers should tell what's going on.

[TimBSmith]

Idle adjustment and stalling....

A quick note. My A4 was stalling in reverse and forward. Sounded really throaty and bogged down under higher throttle. New plugs and time adjusting low to high idle and mixture did the trick. Motor is humming right now. Interesting, found that all of my terminal nuts on the old spark plugs had become loose....I did not know this was even a thing and I believe spark transfer may have been impacted. New plugs needed anyway, used Champions from our host, properly gapped, and worked on the idle mixture more carefully than every before. Results were awesome, low idle strong and higher throttle position really peppy. Best sorting your electrical and stalling issues.

[alcodiesel]

I was just reading this stream. Geeze you guys are good!