Leaking Gas line

[tlross]

Hi again! Next Question - Again, not an exact atomic 4 question but I am hoping that someone can help. It looks like gas is leaking out of the line coming from the tank to the engine. Two places; 1) from the threaded valve piece fitting into the square aluminum (?) piece and 2) from the threaded cone cover the junction between the pipe and the fitting.

Question - If i can get everything apart, is there some fuel stable goo or tape that I can wrap around the threaded pieces to make the connection tighter? i.e. like what I would use teflon tape for in a plumbing situation? Or do I have to think about replacing everything - not easy.

thanks!

[tenders]

You could mess around with it for a while - can use Teflon tape to reseal threads, but my guess would be that the fittings are mostly just a little loose.

But I would just replace the petcock and run good rubber fuel line in place of the old rigid tubing. You might need to do some figuring with new fittings on the ends but the result will fix the leaking and be much simpler to deal with going forward. Maybe $25-40 total?

[ndutton]

If it's the flare fitting that's leaking it does not use sealant. The seal is made between the machined surfaces. Leaks at that joint indicate replacement.

[GregH]

Welcome Tlross

Here in Canada one needs an antisiphon valve at the fuel tank if the tank is located higher than the engine- just in case its poignant information for you. For my non-flared connections I used a wee bit of Permatex fuel gasket.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Been down this road.
The current sealant may not be able to stand up to ethanol laced gasoline.
After some research the only product I could find that is specifically made to seal connections for gasoline laced with ethanol is Gasolia E-seal.

TRUE GRIT

[sastanley]

If it's the flare fitting that's leaking it does not use sealant. The seal is made between the machined surfaces. Leaks at that joint indicate replacement.

Shouldn't the rigid fuel line be flared to properly engage the flared male fitting too (maybe it is and it is buggered up, hence the leak)? - Also, I thought flared fittings were for gas that is not liquid, i.e. propane, CNG, etc. - I always enjoy being educated.

[tac]

I don’t think that’s a flare fitting. Under the nut, on the right side, should be a brass ferrule, which is compressed by the nut against the left hand tube to seal. You can make out the bright marks left by the ferrule where it seats on the right hand tube.

Sometimes, if the nut is backed off a few times, and the ferrule moved back and forth, the seal is compromised and there can be leakage. You can buy new nuts and ferrules at a good hardware or plumbing/heating supply. If there is enough tubing length, cut off both ends of the tubes with a tubing cutter (NOT a hack saw!!!), to get square, clean ends.

On the other hand, the fitting screwed into the valve looks like a flare adapter. It appears that a P.O. cut off the flared end on the right hand tube, then, not having a flaring tool, used a compression ferrule and nut instead.

Going to hose is, in my humble, a better idea. Remove the flare adapter from the valve, and replace it with a hose adapter.

[ndutton]

I advocate flare fittings for fuel lines that are frequently disassembled, the carburetor inlet for example. Pulling hose off a hose barb often (always?) shreds the inside of the hose which results in detritus down stream and the need to keep shortening the hose upon reinstallation.

[tlross]

Yes definitely some education for me on this one. I'm going to replace this setup with hose - everything is already in the works!

Thanks for your help everyone, again some very helpful advice here!

Tracy.

[romantic comedy]

Can gas line quick connects be used for our engines? ABYC compliant? Safe?

[ndutton]

Can gas line quick connects be used for our engines? ABYC compliant? Safe?

The only marine rated fuel line quick connects I could find were the type used on outboard engine fuel tanks. I found no mention of such fittings in either the USCG or ABYC materials I have at hand. This suggests to me they are not acceptable for below deck fuel systems.

[Ram41662]

I would feel safer with a brass JIC fuel line fitting over a quick disconnect. Easy and pretty quick to remove, designed to be connected and disconnected often, and as the name implies, safe for use on a gas line. From what I've read, but I could be wrong, they appear to be ABYC acceptable. They're the fittings I'm planning on using when I get to reinstalling my engine, fuel tank, and replacing my fuel lines.

[sastanley]

I would not use anything I can 'disconnect' on an inboard boat. Out of principle it can introduce fumes that might make their way to the bilge. A bilge blower is a safeguard for errant fumes, not an evacuator for a purposely allowing fumes into the bilge.

[tlross]

Phase 1

Phase one complete.I've replaced the end at the tank. Tomorrow will do the other end! Had to take apart the valve to get it on because the fitting is close to the top of the tank, but managed to get it back together again!

Thanks again for all the tips!

[sastanley]

Great pic and update..

I still recommend poking your nose in there as close as you can to make sure you do not smell any fuel since this is a new connection..it is (no pun intended) the best sniffer.\

One of the unfounded "Achilles heels" of the A4 was always a gas motor in the bilge of a sailboat. Very few have every blown up, we are just trying to keep it that way!!