No spark and low cooling water.

[PaulMcCaige]

I've just Come down the inside passage to Olympia, Wa. Lots of engine time and Plenty of problems along the way. I replaced the starter, solenoid and coil along the way. The last ten days of the trip the engine ran well untill the very last day when it starting running with less cooling water, increased steam and over 180 degrees. (it usually runs between 140 and 160) I have checked the through hull to the new moyer marine pump. No blockage, checked the impeller and the fittings coming off the pump, nothing. Cleaned the thermostat, and then I pulled the hose from the input of the thermostat and ran the engine for a moment to see how much water was pumped to that point. It was far less than the amount the ran in the boat from the through hull. So I think the problem is between the pump and the thermostat...

At this point I pulled the hose from the output of the pump to see how much water it is pumping out. Tried to start the engineand ...nothing. Checked for spark with the lead from the coil, nothing. Used a jumper from the positive on the solenoid to the positive on the coil, nothing, replaced the coil, nothing. Replaced the lead, nothing. At this point I was ready for bed, I turned the house batteries off and was surprised as the engine control panel stayed powered on with the keys out and the battery selector switch turned off.... I don't even know where to start.

Ps. I have the pertronix electronic ignition

[ILikeRust]

I turned the house batteries off and was surprised as the engine control panel stayed powered on with the keys out and the battery selector switch turned off.... I don't even know where to start.

I saw your other thread on this same topic - my first thought was you need to carefully trace all your wires and make sure one hasn't come dislodged or something. The description above sounds like you might have a short somewhere.

I had a problem a while back where I would turn the key off and the engine would just keep on running as if nothing happened. I dug around and found various wires that had been installed over the decades (my boat is 44 years old) by various previous owners, which no longer were connected to anything at the far end, but that were still connected to the panel - so they were live, with their bare ends just hanging out in space. Once I pulled out all the abandoned wiring (there was a couple hundred feet of it, it seemed, and I think I still have more to tear out), the problem went away.

Take some time to trace all the wires and make sure you don't have any extraneous wires or chafed insulation grounding out on something where it shouldn't.

[PaulMcCaige]

Thanks for the reply! I mistakenly left the jumper on and that is why control panel was still powered up. I was also able to find that the power wire from the panel to the coil was not getting power to it. I replaced it and the fuse to it and now get 12.3 volts at the coil but still no spark.

[ILikeRust]

There have been some extensive threads about electronic ignition cooking coils if the coil does not have the correct resistance - I suppose it is possible that the EI, combined with the overheating, cooked your coil.

[smosher]

If your getting + 12 to the + side of the coil then on the - side of the coil should vary between +12 and 0 when your turning over the engine. It doesn't matter if you have ei or points. On the meter the voltage will jump around. If it
doesn't jump around then its either the ei, cap or rotor

Since you have an ei there's many topics on here about the effect of ei and the coil esp with long engine runs.

What coils are you using ?

Steve

[PaulMcCaige]

I put this coil on yesterday after the spark issue, it hasn't sparked yet so I wouldn't think that it could have the time to fry it but who knows. At this point I'm pretty frustrated and am running out if time before I have to go back to work in Alaska and won't be able to get back to the boat until November. When I might pull the whole thing and rebuild it. It was sold to me as newly rebuilt with six hours on it but had an oil leak. I now have 300+ hours on it and have replaced the rear oil seal and the leak continues but their was a large ding in the shaft of the reduction gear. If the previous owner or mechanic rebuilt it and put it back in with an oil leak their standards weren't very high. I like the engine because I've been able to do most everything I've needed to but I don't like it because their is always something going on with it.

[lat 64]

Hi Paul,
You mentioned a fuse that needed replacing right?
Something is short-circuited maybe. could it be that you pushed a wire to accidently ground it while you were working on the water issue?
I have the petronix, but I am not well-versed in diagnosing it, but just go from one end of the ignition to the next confirming voltage and then spark as you trace it.

Cram a spark plug in the coil high-tension wire to make sure it works (or not), and then go through the cap, rotor and wires in steps to eliminate or find the failure.

You make the spark plug work(spark) in the coil wire by just connecting and disconnecting the primary(12-volt) wire. Like a telegraph key! You become the contact points. If you get spark there then go on to the dizzy. If no spark, well, maybe it's the coil then?
Hope this is not too remedial for your skills level.

good luck,
Russ

Where do you work in Ak.?
I'm in Fbks.

[PaulMcCaige]

Thanks Lat 64,

I'll be able to get to the boat tomorrow and keep working on it. I noticed yesterday that the distributor cap is very worn down on the middle post and I have a new one as well. SO I'll just keep chipping away at it. I have a new cap from Moyer, I could try and find a rotor locally and replace that as well.

I work in Wrangell as a guide for a troubled youth wilderness program called Alaska Crossings.

[msauntry]

The Pertronix unit inside the distributor (small black module) should have a sticker on it. If the sticker is melted, then the unit is fried.