Head Removal Tool

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  • thatch
    Afourian MVP
    • Dec 2009
    • 1080

    #16
    Another success story!

    Hughes35,
    Congrats on your successful head removal (sounds French?). Let us know how your valve job goes and while you're at it and since you like to design things, try your hand at designing a valve keeper installation tool.
    Tom

    Comment

    • sastanley
      Afourian MVP
      • Sep 2008
      • 7030

      #17
      Hughes 35 - nice work! I would not have relied on the spark plug holes meself, but looks like it worked out OK!
      -Shawn
      "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
      "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
      sigpic

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      • capgdaddy41
        Frequent Contributor
        • Feb 2011
        • 8

        #18
        Can I buy your 14 x 1.25 bolts?

        Originally posted by Hughes35 View Post
        Thanks for all the input... I've decided to go ahead and fabricate the Head Removal Tool since it's pretty simple (what can I say, I'm an engineer and it's in my nature to take another path).

        I've got the steel plate ready with 4 holes drilled in it that line up with the spark plug holes. I had trouble finding bolts with the correct thread, so I ended up purchasing 5 each 5/8 x 3" bolts (with full thread - 1 extra for a spare). I'll turn down the last 1/2 inch of the bolts then re-threading using a 14mm x 1.25 die. Since the studs are different heights I was planning to back the nuts off until they mate against the underside of the plate; effectively making all the studs the same height. The tool should easily generate 20,000 lbs of force at 24 ft-lbs, and it should also pull evenly and straight up.

        Of course, following "normal procedures", I've already started the liquid wrench soak, and I intend to use wedges once I have the tool installed and generating significant lifting force. If it works I'll post some pictures... if not I'll just report on the experience.
        I am having the same problem but I don't have the tools for making the 14 x1.25 bolts. would you sell yours?

        Comment

        • capgdaddy41
          Frequent Contributor
          • Feb 2011
          • 8

          #19
          Head removal tool

          New to all this so hope I reply to this right. I am having the same problem with removing my head. Very limited work space. I would like to try your tool but I don't have the tools to fab the 14 x 1.25 3" bolts. I would be happy to buy yours? I will pay up front. Thanks

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          • lat 64
            Afourian MVP
            • Oct 2008
            • 1994

            #20
            I have a drawer full of metric stuff. I'll look for some ideas tonight.
            sigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1

            "Since when is napping doing nothing?"

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            • Will Jacocks
              Senior Member
              • May 2010
              • 133

              #21
              Originally posted by Dave Neptune View Post
              Hughes35, I have used a wide (4") thick putty knife for doing head removals for years. I actually have one that is dedicated to that task in my tool arsenal.

              Just insert at the gasket, keep the blade paralell to the head and block and then gently tap. You may need to work it into a few accessable spots before the whole thing lets go. Keeping the blade paralell keeps the blade from gouging the head or block. This can also be accomplished with a screw driver but you may leave marks and gouges to be delt with.

              Dave Neptune
              I used the screwdriver method, the trick to not gouging stuff is to keep the shaft parallel to the block, let it act as a wedge while lightly tapping, yeah... sort of like foreplay.

              Comment

              • ILikeRust
                Afourian MVP
                • Sep 2010
                • 2212

                #22
                It really is an awful lot easier if you remove all the studs from the block first. Then instead of having to try to neatly lift the head perfectly vertically, and work against the resistance of all the rust and crud between all those studs and the holes in the block, you can pry it a little bit more at each end and corner, etc., and get it moving. Once you get one end free, you can lift and apply upward force to that end and sort of twist the head off. Can't do that with the studs still in.
                - Bill T.
                - Richmond, VA

                Relentless pursuer of lost causes

                Comment

                • jstaff
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2004
                  • 64

                  #23
                  ILR,

                  I'm with you...

                  I thought the standard practice was to remove all the studs.

                  And afterwards, does the head get hammered back into place?

                  Comment

                  • 67c&ccorv
                    Afourian MVP
                    • Dec 2008
                    • 1592

                    #24
                    Sorry Bud...I don't like the idea as you are pulling one side of the head at a time and I think you will warp it in the process.



                    If you could turn it sideways and create an even pull along the entire area of the head and all the studs then perhaps I could go for it.

                    On my early model head there is a place to put a hardwood block against the underside of the head and by tapping against the block with a machinists hammer one can break the bond.

                    Good luck with the tool!

                    Comment

                    • rpowers
                      Senior Member
                      • Oct 2007
                      • 304

                      #25
                      Why remove the head?

                      Originally posted by Hughes35 View Post
                      I've got a couple sticky valves in my A4, so I decided to pull the engine apart...
                      If all you have is sticky valves, why go through all the trouble and risk of removing the head?

                      You can do free sticky valves and even replace springs with the head still on.

                      -Rick

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