Running with a sticky valve: can I break something?

[scratchee]

Oh by the way Ed, I do have a little inspection camera like you linked to, though probably not as good as that one. https://www.walmart.com/ip/As-Seen-O...-Cam/800735601

My dream is that one day I will remember to take it to the boat with me.

[tenders]

As others have mentioned I'd run the engine for a while to see if the valve frees itself after a few heating/cooling cycles. I wouldn't use PB Blaster in the cylinder, just use MMO, two-stroke, or spray fogging oil. PB Blaster does weird stuff to rubber and you never know when you're going to get it somewhere you didn't expect.

I run MMO in my gas (not my oil) 100% of the time to keep a sticky valve at bay.

[edwardc]

Wow, thanks for the cardio workout, Ed! Must have been at least two minutes at peak rate.

For that, I publicly apologize.

[scratchee]

For that, I publicly apologize.

Not required at all! I appreciate the warning.... could have been seconds from catastrophe.

[scratchee]

Okay, happy ending here!

Every day this week I've been stopping by the boat for 10-15 minutes on the way to and from work. I'd run the engine, and if the problem persisted I'd add more/different treatments: MMO in the cylinders with a syringe, Sea Foam sprayed into the cylinder, Sea Foam sprayed into the carb when the engine was running. Then I'd let that sit until the next visit

This afternoon she started up and the ticking was gone, but cylinder #1 still wasn't firing. Compression was zero and the engine was shaky and loud. I started to prepare to take the valve cover off, but when I discovered that I'd have to remove the shifter cable (very involved) I decided to just add MMO to the fuel and oil and run it for a while instead, while I worked on other things.

After a while the ticking came back intermittently. Then it came back much louder, and I was wondering whether I should shut it down and open that valve cover. But then suddenly the RPMs kicked way up and she smoothed out! A compression check a couple minutes later showed 85 in that cylinder.

Unexpected bonus outcome: it's so smooth now that I'm really starting to wonder if I've been running on three cylinders for a while, and just didn't notice. While on the hard for 11 months I rebuilt the carb and fuel pump, so maybe it's just multiple improvements all coming together.

Thank everyone for the help! Lessons learned:

1) MMO
2) Sea Foam
3) Patience and faith

[Mo]

Dave Neptune once told me about a synthetic product he adds to gas to help the top end in these engines. It would be worth asking him what he used when he had an A-4. Might want to PM him and find out.

[Dave Neptune]

See post #8 on this thread. The synthetic is specifically designed to stay mixed with gas and lubricate when mixed with gasoline it is nothing more than "synthetic two-stroke oil" the good stuff is (many brands) rated TCW-3.

I use it in all my cars too to keep the cylinders and rings in nice shape. I have 170,000 miles on my Hemi factory 6 spd drag pack. I go 10,000 between oil changes with synthetic oil and the dipstick level is barely down in that time. I got 267,000 out of my Corvette's 350 and pulled the engine still running to drop in a 383 stroker. I gave the engine to a friend who put it in his suburban, he sold it 2 years later. In the cars I mix 1oz to every four gallons or 400/500:1 as a "top oil" and the TCW-3 is catalytic converter safe. I started using the TCW-3 when playing with Rotary performance enhanced engines and modified 2 strokes. GOOD STUFF.

To free sticky valves mix 100:1 and to use as a top oil consistently mix an oz to 3 gallons. No smoke, no fouling and a happy motor .

Dave Neptune

[capnward]

Dave, to clarify, are you using TCW-3 in the gas only, or in both the gas and the oil? If both, is it the same ratio of 1 oz. to 3 or 4 gallons? You call it a 'top oil' which leads me to think it is mixed into the motor oil, but I think you are just mixing it into the gas. I have been using MMO in both oil and gas for years with good results, 8 oz. per oil change and 2 oz. per 5 gal fuel. I think it is much more important to mix it with the fuel.
Scratchee, congratulations on your success. Way to be persistent. Must have been a great feeling when that valve began to move again.

[edwardc]

"I love it when a plan comes together."
--Hannibal Smith

[kcallowai]

MMO on valves

Dave, to clarify, are you using TCW-3 in the gas only, or in both the gas and the oil? If both, is it the same ratio of 1 oz. to 3 or 4 gallons? You call it a 'top oil' which leads me to think it is mixed into the motor oil, but I think you are just mixing it into the gas. I have been using MMO in both oil and gas for years with good results, 8 oz. per oil change and 2 oz. per 5 gal fuel. I think it is much more important to mix it with the fuel.
Scratchee, congratulations on your success. Way to be persistent. Must have been a great feeling when that valve began to move again.

Thanks for the info, I have a motor with stuck valves...when I get the valves freed up I will definately add MMO to fuel and oil