Another side plate leak

[CRUX]

Hey all.

Removed the side plate to repair a leak that the PO let go for what looks like a long time.

One bolt head was disintegrated, but managed to get out the other 7 with the help of some Kroil. What was left of the broken bolt came out easy enough with a screw driver and a dental pick.

Planning on running a tap thru to clean up the threads and installing new bolts with a new side plate. There seems to plenty of meat left to continue using bolts rather than studs.

Thick heavy scaling that I started working towards removing, will prime and paint.

Any advice on sealant for the bolts or re-installing the side plate would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks

[roadnsky]

I would highly recommend you consider using the repair kit our host offers on this site.

[GregH]

If there's plenty of thread left in the block wall, I think this kit would work as well?

https://moyermarine.com/product/water-jacket-side-plate-stud-kit-ovwj_14_557/

[CRUX]

If there's plenty of thread left in the block wall, I think this kit would work as well?

https://moyermarine.com/product/wate...t-ovwj_14_557/

Yea, for obvious cost savings, and the fact that there's plenty of thread left, I was hoping to use that kit over buying 4 of the kits with the backing plates.

[Al Schober]

Would not use bolts. The threads of the bolts will leak where the bolt threads into the block. This is a chronic A4 leak site.
Studs and nuts are the way to go. Buy the studs from Moyer, use stainless set screws, or cut up some all-thread. Clean the threads in the block, then use a toothpick to put JB Weld into the block and onto the ends of the studs.

[CRUX]

Cleaned up the scale and installed studs along with a new side plate.

[sastanley]

Looks good. I am all over supporting MMI whenever I can, but sometimes you have to improvise depending on your situation. I made my own studs (chopped off bolt heads and faired the 'stud' with a die) since I had different sized threads, thanks to the PO. He just jammed a bigger bolt in the worn out holes. I think you will be happy with the studs. I used brass nuts and washers, to sorta be sacrificial, thinking the high nickel block and stainless studs would be more noble, and it is easy to spin off the brass nuts and washers and replace.
Since then, I've also shifted to FWC, so the zincs I have in the block drain port and the HX, I hope take all the galvanic 'heat'. In theory I could go to SS nuts and washers to match the studs...but the brass are holding up OK so far, several years later.
Thanks for the follow up..It helps other members with a similar issue, sometimes years from now.

edit - the freshy motor mounts and engine paint look good too!