For safety the fuel shut off valve is best positioned immediately ahead of the carburetor. Regarding your carburetor overflowing, during your rebuilds did you check for leaky floats (fluid inside the floats)?
Neil, where do I find an appropriate shut off valve? I have one at the tank but want to add one just ahead of the carb. I tried google but the last thing I want is to cause more problems than I solve!
Thanks
My local fuel shutoff is a 1/4" ball valve, probably from Home Depot. It has the same thread as the inlet to my Racor, so I just added a nipple and the valve. The barb that was at the Racor inlet is now at the inlet to the valve.
If I were dispensing advice on the internet, I'd tell you that you want a UL listed fuel (inboard gasoline) rated shutoff. They pass the 2.5 minute flame test, they'll be physically stamped with a UL mark, and run you about $35 from a marine store.
Full Disclosure: I suspect that I personally have a metal 'fuel valve' from the marine section of my hardware store made by Sierra, and it was about $11. Probably all metal, OK for outboard use, but definitely not UL stamped for inboard gasoline.
My $11 valve works fine as shut off, but drips just a tiny bit when used as a water drain valve on the Racor. So it has a plug in it, as required by USCG, and frankly, to stop the drip.... ;>(
Quick (potentially stupid!) question . . .Is there any sort of tiny clip / spring that is supposed to fit on the end non pointy end (the part that is pushed by the float) of the float needle?? I haven't seen anything on the needle during initial disassembly or in the Moyer kit yet I noticed on the diagram that I downloaded from this site a confusing looking squiggle below the needle in the breakdown diagram for it and its seat . . .Its the squiggle at the bottom of part #8 in the PDF I have attached to this post . . . Thanks!
PS: I have received the new float from Moyer and it is installed and adjusted to 1 3/16" height. The old float was definitely out of whack when I measured it with one pontoon noticeably higher than spec and one lower! I am hopeful that I have found my problem!
I practiced on setting the float to spec first on the old one and then installed the new one and set it to spec. To my eye on my particular carb, and on both the new and old floats, setting them to anything less than 1 3/16 would have resulted in the end of the outer pontoon being lower than the end closer to the pivot point and thus not parallel to the machined surface of the carb. Anyone else experience this? I suppose that the 1 3/16 setting should be good. . . .
eurban...SOME carbs have that clip...and some don't...(the bottom most piece in assembly #8 in your attached PDF.) I have heard occasional stories of the clip causing friction/getting stuck and inhibiting proper movement of the needle valve. Of the three carbs I have, one had the clip and two did not. If it was me, I would probably remove the clip to avoid potential problems..there seems to be no 'need' for the clip.
What's more important is that the needle has the rubber tip still attached to it (the darkened area on the needle in the diagram.)
I recently had a lot of excess fuel coming up out of the spark arrestor and below is the solution to my problem. Not sure if this will help in your situation.
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