Rebuild step 1

[P30inbuffalo]

In my recent engine rewire I prefabricated a harness using the attached drawing. Note that the drawing has features specific to my installation so there may be wiring shown that's not necessary for others. I made measurements as to lengths from connection to connection and scribbled them on the drawing as a layout tool. I drove nails into my workbench top to use as measurement posts and off I went. The junctions shown were soldered and insulated with shrink tube. I finished it up by encasing the whole thing in split loom.

Do you have any pics of the completed installation? I would love to see this.

[edwardc]

Maybe tinned wire is overkill?

_IF_ you properly heat-shrink-seal every end _AND_ you get no nicks in the insulation, then untinned is probably ok. But who can guarantee that? I prefer to spend a little more on tinned and take a "belt & suspenders" approach.

But there's another very good reason to use _marine grade_ tinned wire. Marine grade wire uses much finer strands than automotive wire. It also uses a different insulation that is slightly thicker but much softer. The end result of both of these is that marine grade wire is much more flexible. This becomes important when routing large bundles of wire in a tight space, or when routing heavy battery and starter cables.

[P30inbuffalo]

Tappet replacement?

I have noticed some wear on top and bottom of a couple tappets- in the first photo the top of the closer tappet is scored in a circular pattern. In the second the bottom of one tappet has some weird wear almost like an inclusion in the metal.
Should I:
A. Dont be concerned
B. Machine the surfaces that are questionable
C. replace any questionable tappets
D. Replace all the tappets

I don't want to overthink all of this but I want to do it right.

[lat 64]

Those are not too bad yet. probably won't make a hoot of difference in running. It looks like the vlave lash may have been a little loose. The circular pattern is from the tappet rotating in it's bore. This is normal.
A machine shop with the right attachment to their valve grinding machine can recondition these for you. Don't try it yourself; It has to be absolutivly spot-on done right

[Laker]

Niel ,

THANK YOU !!! Now I can come out of the closet - I am a TINLESS Afourian !

I used the same logic - the original wire was not tinned and was relatively intact after 45 years , just rat-nested and FUBARed beyond hope , so I tore it out. I'm 59 , so I think my new wire will outlast me.

Still coming down from Super Bowl ,

Laker

[ndutton]

Do you have any pics of the completed installation? I would love to see this.

I haven't taken any pictures yet but I will next time at the boat.

To qualify my blasphemy somewhat, if I were planning on blue water cruising I'd have nothing but tinned wire onboard, no question whatsoever.

[roadnsky]

I'm thinking it makes complete sense to add an oil filter system like the kit for sale through MMI. Does anyone have experience doing this? A former auto mechanic friend of mine was in disbelief when I told him the engine had no oil filter.

Read thru this thread...

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4848&highlight=filter

[ndutton]

Do you have any pics of the completed installation? I would love to see this.

Here are a few pics. I apologize for the poor quality, I really tucked the harness out of sight so getting any pics was a challenge.

Fuel polishing/filter purging/fuel transfer switch on the upper left, oil pressure sender, safety switch, alarm sender at the lower center.






Backside of instrument panel, harness in black split loom

[P30inbuffalo]

disagreeing

Read thru this thread...
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...ghlight=filter

Thanks Jerry, quite a range of opinions. I think for me the "the less dirt the better" theory works best, I will be adding the filter. I don't yet understand the flow of oil through the engine as it is designed and if there's a way to improve on the Indigo kit, several people have misgivings about how much oil actually would flow through the filter and how effective the flow would render the filtering. (Where the oil is drawn from etc.) I will definitely be studying up on this.

[P30inbuffalo]

Here are a few pics. I apologize for the poor quality, I really tucked the harness out of sight so getting any pics was a challenge.

Thanks for the pictures Neil. I think I saw that panel on another post, incredible job. For my engine compartment it seems like it will take hours just to trace where all the wires originate and terminate. Not sure how to approach this, just dive in I guess.

[roadnsky]

...Not sure how to approach this, just dive in I guess.

Exactly!
It's worth it...

[P30inbuffalo]

Crank hard to turn

I am re-assembling the engine at this point and after I have installed 2 pistons I can no longer turn the crank by hand. It turns very freely without the rods attached. I noticed that the manual says the crank should be hand-turnable after the rods are attached.

My cylinders are bored and honed .020 over, I have new pistons .020 over, and new rings .020 over. Is this OK or should I stop at this point?

Thanks

[Will Jacocks]

Is it necessary to do the pistons .020 over if you are using the rings? I always thought you can use the same pistons, just do the rings .020 over?

Pull the pistons, check the rings fitting inside the sleeve for clearance. There is supposed to be a tiny gap where the rings touch together. You do this without the piston to check for fit. If too tight the shop did something wrong.

[ILikeRust]

I am re-assembling the engine at this point and after I have installed 2 pistons I can no longer turn the crank by hand.

Check to make sure you have not installed the rod caps backwards. The number stamped on the side on the bottom end of the rod and the number stamped on the side of the cap must be on the same side - so that the number on the rod is right above the number on the cap.

Also make sure you've got the pistons in facing the right direction - the arrows on top of the piston that say "front" point towards the reversing gear, although number 1 cylinder is the one closest to the flywheel.

And yes, STOP until you get this figured out. I just replaced all of my bearings and rings, with stock standard size, all four are in and the head is on and I can turn the whole thing by hand without an inordinate effort. However, when I was first reassembling, I put the first two in and then couldn't turn the crank, and that is when I discovered I had put the caps on backwards.

[P30inbuffalo]

Check to make sure you have not installed the rod caps backwards.

Thanks, that was it. 3 out of four were backwards.

UH-OH this doesn't bode well for the remainder of the work...