Opinions on my water jacket....

[TimBSmith]

Greetings from Boston. A4 Sophomore here.

1) I did some cleanup on my water jacket today. There was scaling around the water inlet fitting that concerned me. Also searching archives.

After gentle cleaning here is what I see around the threads.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hXh9i9qSnChMW83e7

This looks serviceable to me though I will replace short hoses and all clamps. Should I try to get another thread turn on this water inlet fitting? I did not see any leaks last season yet it is not as clean as I would like. Thoughts?


2) Likewise I wanted to check the bolts and margin around the plate. Only light scaling in most places. Here is what it generally looks like.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jUsLtX99G8a4ARcy6

The worst bolt is below the main water inlet. Even this does not look bad to me. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7x6Jn8ua8VZ3uSvt6
I have seen much worse in the threads, still, wonder if any case to be made for Moyer studs at this time?

3) The tube sticking out from the block is my greatest concern. (Engine Block Drain Tube?) The base looks questionable, I brushed very gently. Did not dare wiggle. Again, noticed no leakages during last season.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FtdmoxTJZrH1TYm89

Thoughts? Should I attempt to remove and replace. Likely will need to drill out and tap probably will break at base? Experience?

Thankful for reflections and guidance.

Scaling protection, aside from hoses and clamps, I plan a thorough brush down and paint in place. I may remove the water jacket to inspect for buildup or passage blockage, I have no temperature problems so I might just do a muratic acid flush. This is a bypass valve, no thermostat engine.


Thankful in advance. Stay well. Tim

[Dave Neptune]

Tim, it is not how it looks outside that is important it is inside. The cover plate looks pretty good EXCEPT I spotted a couple of lock washers on the bolts a big NO NO as a lock washer won't really seal as it is split. Rule no split lock washers on water jackets!

You drain tube is simply will it unscrew or not. Once you start on that your committed. I have found it far more difficult to re-tap once removed since the hollow will fill with crap and the threads will need to be "chased" to clean them for a good "tapered" pipe thread seal.

As far as the "inlet", the "diverter tee" should be checked again on the inside to see that it is indeed facing the front of the engine, the trans end. The proper placement of the diverter is necessary for proper cooling.

Dave Neptune

[ndutton]

Dave hit on the first thought I had, taking another turn on the diverter Tee. There is a drilled pipe cap attached to the Tee on the inside of the water jacket and the position of the holes determine where the cooling water is directed so its orientation is important. Turning the Tee will also turn the cap. I've attached a picture showing my diverter cap (replaced with a larger size and modified).

You'll have to remove the side plate to re-orient the cap which almost guarantees a few broken bolts that will have to be drilled out and retapped and if the side of the block is damaged you'll need Moyer's side plate bolt repair kit to fix that. At a minimum you'd be wise to replace the bolts with threaded studs which Moyer also offers.

As for the drain pipe, I'd get rid of it. If it breaks and chasing the threads becomes the problem Dave described, you can always drill and tap one size larger (from 1/8" to 1/4" NPT) and close it with a pipe plug. It will never be a problem again.

Is removing the side plate worth the hassle? I think so. You have water leaking as shown by the corrosion and it won't heal itself. The earlier you deal with it the better it will be for your engine. With the side plate removed you can really clean out around the cylinders and reseal everything up. Your cooling system will be better for it.

[blind navigator]

'74 P30

Hi Tim- (from another Tim) just catching up on some older posts-saw your string of inquiries- you're getting a lot of good advice from the community.
They're extremely durable motors-have patience, it will all work out. Don Moyer has been wonderful with advice and parts.

My '74 P30 is hull 522- not many systems I've not had apart in 35 years.
Currently have the copper vertical standpipe muffler out for TIG welding
(two of the big name local shops are "too busy") and yanked the Oberdorfer
for it's first time in 48 years for a rebuild- then it's time to do the usual
chores before drop in. I see from your pics that salt water takes a much heavier toll on metal parts than the fresh water in Chicago.

I've had good luck with the recommended 30 wt oil, as some of it also lubricates the transmission. Flushing the block with sulfuric acid kind of scared me, having dealt with it in another life- One or twice a season, I get the engine hot, then suck in white vinegar through the Y-valve, and go do something else for a few hours. It works eventually, and can be safely pumped into the Lake.

Feel free to PM me if I might have experience with one of your issues.

Regards,

[ndutton]

Point of technical accuracy - - -

Flushing the block with sulfuric acid kind of scared me, having dealt with it in another life-

Whoa, it would scare me too. The recommended higher strength flushing acid around here is diluted muriatic acid, not sulfuric acid. Store bought muriatic acid runs between 10-30% concentration and after diluting it another 1:15 per the Moyer instructions you're close to 2% before drawing it into the engine.

[Dave Neptune]

Blind, when using vinegar, let it sit for a day or two not just an hour or so as it will work far better.

Dave Neptune

[TimBSmith]

Quick check-in

Thanks to all for the follow-up.

I spent the better part of one afternoon figuring out more functional starboard side engine access on my Pearson 30. First using padding and diving in from the cockpit locker. Next, pulling the cabin sink plumbing from the standpipe to the sink and the fresh water feed to the sink pump. That was the trick. I now have a functional method of squeezing beside and working on the starboard side of the engine.

Understand lock washer comment. Discovered I have them on both my exhaust flange nuts and on my waterjacket bolts. Added to my list of replacement work.

Block drainage tube. Made a close inspection and photographed. Here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mo1NzHStKu6Jjbo29

Thankfully the tube is solid, the base of the tube that screws into block is sound, the tube is sound, the cap is sound. I will remove the tube while it is sound and seat a appropriate threaded plug; replace the tube if I want to drain or flush the block.

I inspected water jacket bolts and washers. I have a decision to make about replacing washers this season and making the opportunity to inspect the condition of the water jacket area and especially the back side of the cylinders.

Compression has been excellent across all cylinders. Temperature steady in the 180s and lower when she ran last season. (RWC, Bypass, no thermostat, New England) Will be testing all again as part of my spring checkup. I have used a infrared handheld for temp, will be trouble shooting from sender to gauge. Temperature gauge has never shown any reading. I have another complete engine and control panel from a '76 so I may be able to swap out some better parts.

From notes above and research here I feel pretty well briefed on what these old water jacket bolts will require and contingencies for handling broken bolts. Setting the jacket. Moyer parts to upgrade. I will lean into the crew here as needed. May save that project for the fall depending on how spring make ready work goes.

I am working on preventing further scaling and addressing the bypass fitting hoses. That will all be cleaned up this month. I will post further when I approach the water jacket. Appreciate all responses.